Rear Defroster clip melted!

Hey guys and gals!  Ok so here is what happend on the way to work one day I had my rear defroster on and smeld burning plastic and when i looked back I see smoke comming from the clip that connects to the gas window shock.  Well somehow the wire melted to the clip.  Does anyone know how or why this happend and what I need to do to fix it?  Here are some pictures of the problem:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/imb1987/IMG_0468.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/imb1987/IMG_0466.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/imb1987/IMG_0465.jpg

P.S see that rubber thing in the picture and how it has those bubbles on it.  What is that?  Any help would be great!!!  Thanks guys and gals!

Not sure, imb... But the filament on the glass itself is what is supposed to get warm.
 
I'm guessin' your filament is broken, and the connector was groundin' out somewhere near the strut. Was there something in the back that was contacting the connector?
 
Check the glass filament for continuity, from one strut to the other. Then get back here on it...

There wasn't anything in the back, but i will check it out.  thank you!

Sounds like there is a short in the wiring.  Maybe there is some wear that is allowing the two wires to come into contact with each other?
 
Either way, shouldn't a fuse have blown before it started smoking?  Very strange
 
I don't claim to be an electrical engineer (anymore) but that is the fuses job to prevent overloads and potential SERIOUS problems.
 
You may want to also check to make sure that you have the correct size fuse for that particular application
 
Good luck bro

quote:

ORIGINAL: cwb

Not sure, imb... But the filament on the glass itself is what is supposed to get warm.

I'm guessin' your filament is broken, and the connector was groundin' out somewhere near the strut. Was there something in the back that was contacting the connector?

Check the glass filament for continuity, from one strut to the other. Then get back here on it...

Did you check the filament for continuity?

You have to get a wiring diagram, to know where the power flows. And check to see if power is gettin' to the filament with the fuse/relay pulled (which it shouldn't, when the switch is OFF).

Since it apparently IS, you can then check the switch itself, to see if


AHA! It has an 'auto cut-off' somewhere in the circuit. You need to find that!!! That is probably the problem...
 
EDIT: the auto cut-off is either by a timer, or heat/resistance build-up.

I checked the fuzes or breakers and the breaker that was in there was a 14.5v, 35amp breaker.  but the weird thing is that all the other breakers are 14.5v 30amp so i think that was the problem.  can you guys check your cars and see what amp the breaker is in your fuze boxes for the rear defroster?

What year is yours? Mine's an 85 and I can't find the fuse, Is it in the fuse panel on the side of the dash on the passengers side??

Mine is an 89, the fuze pannel is on the passanger side.  The one for the rear defroster is accually a breaker fuze.  it has a metel shell.

That just burns you up when that happens!!!
I inspected my defroster connectors last week to find a similar situation. The wires and connector were corroded and the wire was hanging on to the connector by a couple of strands. I chopped of the insulated connector and replaced it with a .250 uninsulated faston terminal. I chose to solder the new faston connector to the wire after cleaning corrosion from the wire. I don't trust crimped on connectors in high current draw automotive situations. After the solder job, the connector was insulated with shrink tubing.
 
I am still searching for the defroster relay! Does anyone know where the little bugger is buried?
 
 

quote:

ORIGINAL: C4land

That just burns you up when that happens!!!
I inspected my defroster connectors last week to find a similar situation. The wires and connector were corroded and the wire was hanging on to the connector by a couple of strands. I chopped of the insulated connector and replaced it with a .250 uninsulated faston terminal. I chose to solder the new faston connector to the wire after cleaning corrosion from the wire. I don't trust crimped on connectors in high current draw automotive situations. After the solder job, the connector was insulated with shrink tubing.
 
I am still searching for the defroster relay! Does anyone know where the little bugger is buried?                          
 
Don't know what year you have,  but on 95 it is located behind the L/H I/P to the right & above the steering column.

Thanks, Its a 1989-

Nothing is corroded on mine that I can see so i think it was the fuze.

mine's having the same problem and I haven't addressed it yet. I did notice alot of corrosion on the wires and I'm guessing too much resistance causing a melt down, unless somethong in the strut itelf is messed up

quote:

ORIGINAL: scooterman
 and I'm guessing too much resistance causing a melt down,

 
I don't think that's right. More resistance means less current flow. If there's less current flow, the filament in the bulb (or likewise the connector) ain't gonna' glow.
 
I think it's too LITTLE resistance - too much flow. Like a capacitor failed, or a timer failed, that allows the current to keep flowin' TOO much. Although I don't have a wirin' diagram to confirm.

A corroded, or loose connection can cause heat to build up at the connector. The rear hatch supports have oil in them and have been known to leak on to the connector and could cause a poor connection.

Well, I replaced the struts on my and its still having the same problem.

Is it just on one side, or both?

Its just happend on the passanger side.

mine is only on the pass side too

Give this a try:
 
1. Disconnect the two faston terminals at the window glass end of the With a meter set to measure resistance scale and connect each meter lead to the terminals. The meter should not read open and continuity should be read across the defroster grid. If it reads open, the defroster grid has a break in it somewhere that nees to be repaired. Kits are available at car parts outlets to repair breaks in the grid or the faston terminals at the ends of the wire may be corroded or open and need to be replaced.
 
2. If there is resistance across the defroster grid proceed to measure voltage. Leave the two wires off that you previously removed. Start the car with the rear defroster on and with the meter set to read 12 volts DC, touch each meter lead to the terminals on the car end of the cylinders.The meter should read 12 to 14 volts. If no voltage is present, assure the faston terminals and tabs that they push on to are not corroded. Clean them if they are. If voltage is still not present, the problem lies in either the wiring or circuit breaker/fuse.
 
3. If you measured voltage in step 2, proceed to place each meter probe on the window end of the cylinders on the tabs that the terminals to the defroster grid connect to. 12 volts DC should be present. If voltage is not present, shut power off and measure for resistance from one end of the cylinder to the tab on the other end. They should be internally connected. The cylinders are probably is not the problem if you replaced them. 
 
This troubleshooting process will take no longer than 10 minutes and will indicate where to focus on to repair the defroster. Had to do this on my 89 and the problem was corroded faston terminals/wires at the car end of the cylinders. I have seen defroster grid repair kits on line and they consist of a cold type conductive solder that is applied to bridge any open circuits in the grid.
 
Wish I had time to supply pics but don't,
 
Best of luck
 
 
 

Hey guys!  Thanks for all the great feed back!  I really am thankful for it!  I was wondering if someone  can do me a favor and check there defroster circet breaker ( located in the passanger side fuze box ) and tell me what voltage and Amps there breaker is.  All of the ones in my car are 14.5v 30amp EXCEPT the one for the defroster which was 14.5v 35amp.  so i am think this may have been the problem.