What bolt on mods will get me into the 10's?

Ok, Let me start by saying I have been drag racing for years and have had 11 f bodies and now this is my 2nd Corvette.  I have the 07 Orange Z06 and have already put a K&N cold air kit as well as a B&M ripper on the car.  Last outing I went 11:82 at 119 with a lousy 1.94 60'.
 
Now I know I need to launch the car better and will be working on that.
 
I also know I need drag radials.  I would love to find some for my stock wheels and if anyone knows where i can find some please let me know.
 
I have talked to LG and Lingenfelter about mods for the car but they want 20k+ and want to rip out the motor.   I only have about 1600 miles on the car and think it would be a shame to pull the motor already.  I also don't want to void the warrant just yet.
 
I am pretty certain I need a tune and Long tubes.  But what can I do without opening the block to get the car to go 10's. 

bone stock 11.9/123 07 z .drag radials can get ya there but thrownout until ya get rollbar

If you've owned 11 f-bodies and dragged raced for years, then you know very well how much HP it will take to get the car into the tens.  The least expensive way to get there would be to add NOS: withlarger injectors and a 150+ dry kit, and good re-programming, and good rear tires, you'd get there.  Remember that NOS has a slightly cooler/less impacting burn than normal air/gas and thus this method will provide the lowest stress on your stock (and marginal) lower end.
    I'd install headers: a cheap way to get a bit more power. 
    Then, a supercharger would do the trick.  Even with your high compression, you can run enough boost to put the car into the high tens, I'd think.  Magnusen units won't do (they won't blow enough air for a 427 without overreving them): if you want a roots/screw type you'd have to go with a Kenny Bell unit (about $10K plus you have to find a really big-bulge hood..  I'd recommend a Procharger D1SC (one size up from the standard 'vette P model, or the Vortech equivalent, and would not recommend the F (another size up -- harder to fit). 
    As to drag radials.  You can check around but I would think a set of 345s would fit in the wheel wells.  I run 345x18 BFGs drag radials all the time -- street and track.
    Do realize that Lingenfelter has a point in their recommendation: they like to rebuilt the lower end when they add that much power for durability.  With either of these mods, you will be right at the limit of what you can expect to last reasonably long (if you don't abuse it), and you won't be able to push to the lower tens without a built bottom end.  
    I'd also ask Lingenfelter what they do to reinforce the rear end on C6s: they are3 a notorious weak spot on really powerful modded vettes, and an aggresive launch at 600 RWHP can rip them apart.     
 
 

Well from the research I have done on this car I have found that a supercharger will get me to about 600HP but will blow my clutch and possibly my rear end.  It appears that I can only run 4-6lbs of boost with the compression and bottom end components stock.
 
My 67 Camaro went 10:18 at 129 but was a big tire car, weighted only 2200lbs and had 4:88 gears
My 99 TA went 13:00 with mild mods at 103 with 3:73's
My 06 C6 A6 Vert went 12:70 at 111 with just a veraram.
 
I ran a NOS 5177 dry kit on the TA and washed the pistons but did get the car to run considerably faster.  I want to NOT void the warranty on the ZO6 so I am trying to stay away from NOS and or a supercharger.
 
I have heard and read stories of guys getting them to the high 10's with only long tubes, x pipe, stat, tune and DR's.  As for DR's, my stock wheels are 19" and I am pretty sure that means that an 18" tire won't fit on them.  If anyone knows of a 19" Drag radial please let me know.

quote:

ORIGINAL: atomicfusion

I have heard and read stories of guys getting them to the high 10's with only long tubes, x pipe, stat, tune and DR's.  If anyone knows of a 19" Drag radial please let me know.

 
First, there were no 19' drag radials when I completed my car about a year ago, plus -- you really want the sidewall for flex. 
 
Second, I can't believe long tubes, x-pipe, state, and a tune will give you 10s on drag radials.  Maybe with a change in rear end ratio and drag slicks and a really heroic launch you might get 10.95, but you are asking for nearly a second from mods that typically give half a second or less.
 
And you are right, NOS or SCr, the power to do 10s on drag radials will push the engine to the limit. But not over if you keep to the high tens. 

Ok so I decided to do long tubes, LG is 2 weeks out on more, checking on Kooks now.  Any preferences?  Going with an offroad x pipe no cats, 160 stat, already have the K&N cold air kit and ripper.  I will also have it profesionally dyno tuned at time of install.  Hoping for 500 RWHP.  I understand stock they are at about 440RWHP with the stock air filter.  We will see what I get and what it will do.  I am pushing for install early next week.

Looks like the Kooks were going to be 3 weeks out so LG it is... 2-3 weeks and then it goes in.  Now I need to get some 18" rims and some DR's to see what I can do.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603364&highlight=Z06

thanks for that link... I have been dying to read that post.
 

That is an incredible run for a stock car and I have personally not seen a stock LS7 do nearly that well.  The launch was superb and he must have shifted perfectly. 
 
 

Well I went to the track today and had a blast...   Started off ok but by the end of the day I was running in the 11.70's pretty consistantly.
Best pass was as Follows:
Reaction .7681
60' 1.7957
330' 5.0330
ET @ 594' 7.1539
1/8th 7.6280
1/8MPH 94.91
1/4 ET 11.7029
1/4 MPH 119.65
Best ET of the day was the 11.70 and the best MPH was 121.  the 1.79 was the best 60' as well.
Pretty happy overall... I was at Kil-Kare raceway in Xenia Ohio.
Track temp was 117
Temp was at 92 although the temp guage in my truck said 125
Humidity was at 68-70 most of the day.  It actually started raining and we had to call the day early.
I am still coming through the traps at the top of 3rd gear though... I think I need to adjust when I shift or something.  Oh well I had a blast

btw I ordered the electric water pump as well... hope these get done in time for the next test and tune day.

Your times are what I think of as typical for stock C6ZO6s.  I read about these 10.9 passes, etc., as well as low 13 passes by stock 350Zs and other "extreme" results that are just barely believeable, and don't consider them relevant -- that's one step short of saying they are BS, but you read everything on  the internet and even someone posting a timeslip is irrelevant -- I know local kids who printed up their own at home (looked good except the paper had that slightly different feel).
 
And for that matter, I don't consider a car that has to run slicks to make 10s a ten se4cond car, etc.  My car has made one 9 second pass, with a pro driving, with slicks, running and tuned for super octance race gas, etc. -- my shop wanted to make the pass for proof of the engine, etc.  Fitted out for the street, with street tires, a spare tire and two jacks in the trunk, etc. and me driving, its a low 10s car, so that's what it is . . .
 
You might ask whoever tunes the car if they can wake up any torque increase in the low and mid range.  I won't go into why but I suspect that GM exercises a torque management limitation in that rev range one way or the other on the LS7, limiting it by about 25-30 lbs in the lower range.  Might be the cam they use but electronics would be the cheapest way -- if so you can get that back.  It would help with launch if you are using good tires. 

A good set of radials and alot of seat time.... 

Well, first round of mods are done.  LG long tubes, LG off road X pipe, electric water pump, 160 stat, and dyno tune.  These added to the B&M ripper and the K&N cold air kit get me pretty much done with bolt ons.
 
Next step will be either mild forced induction or to go into the bottom end and do some big turbos.
 
Dyno results are SAE 484.54 RWHP or for those of you that just look at numbers the standard corrected HP was 493RWHP.  All in all I have about $3800 in mods so far.  Friday will be my first track day.  I will still be on the stock run craps.

That's really pretty reasonable.  You've picked up about 45 RWHP over stock for $3800, or about $85 per . . . whichi s about what my experience indicates it costs for aftermarket verifiable RWHP if you do it right, with first class components (LG, of course, is absolutely first class but costs it) and don't cut corners. 

Best time with all the mods is now 11.37 at 125.  Don't know where the rest of the MPH is but I'm gonna find it.  BTW this is still on street tires.  I am currently looking to find any wheel drag radial combo that will fit my car.  I don't want the c5z wheels, so if anyone knows of any others please let me know.

The rest of the mph is probably due to the street tires but this is fairly good.  Another 100 HP (NOS) will do you to the tens for sure:
 
Your plan for big turbos is just throwing money away now: with the compression ratio you have you can't really use big anythings: using smaller turbos would make them work hard at high RPM (for, say, 5 lbs boost) but they would spool up earlier and you'd get more mid range torque and less  throttle lag.
 
The C5R I have is very nearly equivalent to your LS7, except for the dry sump- (worth 10-15 HP) and mine has milder compression (10:1) but a bigger cam.  With Kook's LT headers it produced around 515 corrected RWHP, NA..  Seven and a half pounds of boost gets it to 670 and a very mild meth cooling gets it to 704 (http://www.cam-dyno.com:7777/pls/htmldb/f?p=107:9:18427411934021612420 ), all of this pretty well verifying the shop's rule of thumb of 25 RWHP per lb boost on modern GM 427s. 
 
Applying that to your engine now, you would get 75-100 additional HP at 4 lbs of boost: around 575-600 RWHP, and over 600 RWHP if you went to 5 lbs -- about all I think you will be able to do with that compression.  A set of small/medium size turbos could do that with no problem.

Yeah I pretty much scrapped the TT option after talking to APS.  They said I could get maybe 625 RWHP on thier kit but I can get there with new Pistons, Heads and Cam.  I have been quoted a similar price from LG for all the motor work for 638 RWHP as APS for 625RWHP.  The difference is LG will give me forged pistons.
 
I am pretty sure I am going to go that way; however, I would like to find some of my missing MPH first.  There is no reason my car shouldn't be trappig 126-128 right now.

I think that is a much better plan: this way you have the forged pistons/strong bottom end for even more power. 
 
 

Going back to the track on Friday... we will see what happens.  I have now added a ported TB and Ported Intake.  The car has been dyno tuned again and I am waiting for my new rims to come in so I can put my DR's on.
 
I am looking for 1.6's and high 10's @ ~129.
 
We will see what happens
 

What altitude are you running at? Your car does seem to be missing a little mph. Are you shifting into 4th before the traps? I haven't tracked my Z yet but I've heard you have to hit 4th before the traps? Also, you can't expect a lot of mph when it's almost 100deg out. Coming from a FI car that suffered dramatically from this I didn't think the Z would be effected that much but it is. Good luck with your runs and keep us posted.

Some drag radials and a lower rear gear would do the trick.. these things are geared wayyy to high..  60mph in first? thats wayyy to high for 1st gear..   
 
how about some 4.10s hehe

quote:

ORIGINAL: Lee Willis

If you've owned 11 f-bodies and dragged raced for years, then you know very well how much HP it will take to get the car into the tens.  The least expensive way to get there would be to add NOS: withlarger injectors and a 150+ dry kit, and good re-programming, and good rear tires, you'd get there.  Remember that NOS has a slightly cooler/less impacting burn than normal air/gas and thus this method will provide the lowest stress on your stock (and marginal) lower end.
   I'd install headers: a cheap way to get a bit more power. 
   Then, a supercharger would do the trick.  Even with your high compression, you can run enough boost to put the car into the high tens, I'd think.  Magnusen units won't do (they won't blow enough air for a 427 without overreving them): if you want a roots/screw type you'd have to go with a Kenny Bell unit (about $10K plus you have to find a really big-bulge hood..  I'd recommend a Procharger D1SC (one size up from the standard 'vette P model, or the Vortech equivalent, and would not recommend the F (another size up -- harder to fit). 
   As to drag radials.  You can check around but I would think a set of 345s would fit in the wheel wells.  I run 345x18 BFGs drag radials all the time -- street and track.
   Do realize that Lingenfelter has a point in their recommendation: they like to rebuilt the lower end when they add that much power for durability.  With either of these mods, you will be right at the limit of what you can expect to last reasonably long (if you don't abuse it), and you won't be able to push to the lower tens without a built bottom end.  
   I'd also ask Lingenfelter what they do to reinforce the rear end on C6s: they are3 a notorious weak spot on really powerful modded vettes, and an aggresive launch at 600 RWHP can rip them apart.     

 
I run a P1SC on a mustang GT @ 10psi... a D1SC is over kill since your going to run at max 8psi on pump gas with a LS7