Won't start

Sometimes when I try to start it, I get a click and the amp reading goes down way negative, but there is no reaction from the starter at all. Usually the first try it cranks, but didn't get enough fuel pumped up to start, and I let the key spring back and try it again, and this second time nothing happens. I thought maybe the clutch wasn't down all the way but I'm shoving it through the floor. It's a manual, '69, so I wiggle the shifter in case that matters. That doesn't help. Once I tried it like 50 or 60 times with nothing every time, I got out, pushed the car a little bit, got in, and bammo it worked first time. But now it's gotten to the point where it doesn't start at all, ever, and I either get it towed to a shop or maybe someone on the forum has a clue about what this problem might be. I have a laminated electrical diagram but I can't follow the wires that go through the firewall and dont look forward to taking that stuff apart. My first instinct is the clutch safety switch, and hope to find that soon (if I do I'll just bypass it, who needs it anyway). Any other ideas? Thanks in advance. -M

1969 Coupe, 4-speed manual, RPO L-46 (350ci/350hp) V-8, A/C

Welcome to CF!
Most common probs, IMO, are the bat, solinoid, and starter.
Be sure you have a good charge on your bat.
Check your bat cables for good clean connections at both ends.
The "click" you hear is from the solinoid trying to enguage the bendix gear. When getting just a "click", is a good indication of not getting enough power from the bat. Solinoid, when bad, will not enguage the bendix gear and starter may run with out enguaging to the flywheel.
The clutch safety switch is mounted on the clutch pedle arm. You can unplug the switch and put a jumper wire across the wire connections on the plug, to bypass the switch.
Hope this helps.

Oh ya, if the solinoid is bad, you may, or may not get power to the starter, even though the bendix is not enguaged. It sounds though, like the bat or solinoid is bad.

I'm in agreement with Starship, if you hear the "click" every time you try then it could be one or more of the following. Low battery, poor connection at either end of the battery cables, faulty starter solenoid, faulty starter motor. Get back with us with as detailed description as you can give, the member's on this forum are real good at tracking down electrical problems.

Check your neg battery cable where it bolts to the frame.

Since you indicated a large current draw and the starter isn't rotating, I'm thinking probably a bad starter.  But still wouldn't hurt to check all of the things previously suggested as they don't cost anything but time.

Good point, 73shark.
That voltage draw is a sign of the starter gone bad. And yes, check the other items first, just a process of elimination.

A simple quick test is to put the headlights on and have someone look at them if you cant see the lights. They should be nice and bright. Now go and start the car. If they go out it's usually the bat or bad connection. If you get a nice loud click from the starter and the lights are still bright it's probably the starter. And it you have a friend who is willing to wack the starter with a hammer while you try to start it and it starts (unless it's really fried)then you know it's the starter. Just don't run him over, after all he did try to help!

Thanks for all the replies.

The headlights are strong. There is no clicking sound, I was wrong. When i turn the key, the ammeter goes down to -40, and the headlights dim a little bit. No click. No crank. I checked the negative battery connection under the car, it's nice and tight.

I looked at the starter and it is very old, I think possibly even the original starter motor. So I wouldn't be suprised if it is bad.

Is that something I can order and replace myself or is it kinda tricky? And if so, how can I be sure it's the starter/solenoid?

Thanks

Starters are relatively easy to replace.  Be sure to disconnect the battery first as you can weld tools to various car parts if you short something out or your watch band which will get hot. 
 
Recommend making notes on the electrical connections before proceeding.  Once there removed, you can disconnect the front brace and then remove the mounting bolts.  Be sure to check for shims between the mounting surface on the block and the starter so you can put them back with the new one.
 
Not sure tho how you're getting current draw without the solenoid pulling in.  I'd replace both the starter and solenoid if I was doing it just to be safe.  Not that much money and certainly not worth having to go back and do it again. 

Heh. Turns out I'm not so good of a diagnostician. It was just a weak battery.

On other cars I've dealt with, a weak battery might produce a wimpy crank, or dim headlights, and when you crank the dim headlights would go out.

Not so with this C3. It either cranks strong, or doesn't crank at all. The headlights looked strong, and turning the key only dimmed them. So I thought the battery was ok.

But there was no click, the solenoid was not activating. And the ammeter showed a huge current draw, which I've been recently told means the starter is ok.

Aparently the solenoid needs a really solid amount of charge before it will activate. Is that a bad solenoid, or normal behavior?

I've got a battery tender on it now so it will keep the battery topped up.

You might want to get the battery tested as the problem you described could be caused by a bad ground connection or a battery going south.  Most auto parts stores will test battery for free.