I was trying to fix the headlights and the actuators both work and will open and close. The driver side opens really slow but the passenger side won't open, however when the actuator was not attached to the light it opened fine. I took off one of the springs to make it easier but didn't help. I don't think I am getting enough air pressure. Is there something that would cause that? I don't hear any leaks when they are trying to open.

Next question, rear end drops and thumps when I put it in reverse and raises and tunks a little less when I put it in drive.

Final question, can I put in aftermarket seats? Don't mind modifying the mounts or anything just want new seats.

Thanks

" Next question, rear end drops and thumps when I put it in reverse and raises and tunks a little less when I put it in drive. "

I bet it's the center differential support bushing is shot.

So is this a difficult job to do? I'm fairly good at working on cars.
Thanks
B

I bet it's the center differential support bushing is shot.

yep...I bet there shot too.

I would think trying to replace the bushings without a lift, would get pretty aggravating. You would have to get the car up high enough to work under it, and at the same time you would need a jack to support the rear end and to take the weight of the rear-end off the bushings. Sounds like fun don't it?.

As for your lights, have you checked to see if the vacuum canister is holding vacuum, there should be an in-linecheck-valve to prevent the vacuum from escaping the canister, check and make sure it is functioning properly. You might also check all of the vacuum lines associated with the headlightsfor any splits or breaks, especially where they plug into the canister and actuator.

Most of the lines are just pushed on and don't have any clamps to hold them on tight. I was thinking of getting some clamps for each line. However the three lines that go into the wiper actuator don't have enough room for clamps between the lines. I guess I'll try and clamp everything down and try again. When I turn on the lights they do try and open just not enough force.

I guess I'll take it to my mechanic for the support bushing. I'm not above paying someone to do a job that will potentially make me want to break something.

I guess I'll take it to my mechanic for the support bushing. I'm not above paying someone to do a job that will potentially make me want to break something.

That's not a bad Idea at all, they have the facilities and the right tools to do it right, not to mention, it's a lot safer if it's done on a lift, it's not worth getting hurt over. Also, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to have everything re-aligned after the new bushings are installed.

would this be the part or correct kit?
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=A7153&dept_id=1861http://www.ecklers.com/images/vette/A7153.jpg

Yup! Since you're getting that one changed, check out the otherdifferential andsuspension bushings too. I'd just about bet you'll need to change more than just the center support bushing.

According to Ecklers it is, I was expecting more than one though. Sadly I'm not a C3 owner, I'm more like a C3 owner wannabe, so I really don't know for sure. Heck you may be able to install that yourself. Maybe Starship will drop in and let you know for sure.

Speak of the devil, and he shows up. :D

ORIGINAL: C3 Starship

Yup! Since you're getting that one changed, check out the otherdifferential andsuspension bushings too. I'd just about bet you'll need to change more than just the center support bushing.


DO you know what other bushings there are. I'd rather have it right then have to take it in again.
I already picked up the rear spring cushions, so what else is there?
Thanks

I found this kit, It has everything to rebuild the rear suspension.

http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=41729&dept_id=243

Yup, that's the one. I can't post picks out of my manual right now, scanner is OOC( out of commission ) but ya ought ta get a manual for your car. Ecklers has them for any specific year of Vette. :)

Hi everyone,
Here's my 2 cents worth:
To fix the headlights'
Get a "Vacuum" guage, then start at the manilold and record this reading.
than check each part in this order-
filter
check valve head light switch-vacuum goes thru switch in"Off"blocked in "On"
"Pull Down" switch-vacuum goesthru in off or up
left and right "Relay's"-Top port hose .
Then go back to the "Check Valve" and follow the second connection to the
"reservoir Then follow that line to the 3rd connection at the relay.
Then move actuator hose front to rear- see if they work.

The bushing in # 7 -that's my guess.
The kit is not in stock,
Get everything but not that kit, if you want strut rods get the adjustable one's (see Starships post)

Hope that helps, PG.

I have a manual so I will check out that part and the rear end bushings. Thanks for all the advise.

BTW any ideas on how to make sure an aftermarket seat will fit in the Vette? I really don't like the seats and I am short enough that head clearance is never an issue.

Seats,.......
I'm looking at some options that Summit Racing has.
High back buckets that will accept 5 point harness. :)

There may be some mounting mods required, no matter what after market seats you choose, or where you get them. ;)

Could these worn rear bushings be what is making the ride real rough. When I am sitting in the car the engine idle makes the car pulsate. My front end suspention is pretty new and not worn but I know the rear is bad so will fixing that help the rough ride too?? I am hoping yes.

BTW, side exhaust is going on this weekend, very excited.

That's a good question bruiserman, I'd like to know the answer to that one too. I've always thought the rough ride was just the nature of the beast. Mine did ride better though, with the original 16' wheels, than it does with the 17" aftermarket wheels, I guess it's because the 16" tires have more sidewall than the 17" tires.

I had a camaro once I took to a garage and had new exhaust put on, instead of using the correct hanger brackets that isolate vibration, they bolted a solid metal hanger to the body to hang the mufflers from. Needless to say, the vibration and noise was too much. We replaced the hanger brackets with ones that had what looked like conveyor belt material that joined the two metal ends of the hanger together. It did cut down on a lot of the vibration and noise.

Motor supports, transmission supports, rear differential supports, exhaust hanger brackets, all play a part in isolating noise and vibration from the passenger compartment.

on the seat question. check out corvettefaq.com click on the interior section and theres a article about c4 and c5 seats in a c3. hope this helps.

I think you'll find that new bushings in the rear will help with comfort and noise.
She'll handle better too. ;)

If the hoses are the correct size, you shouldn't need clamps as it is a vacuum system.

What kind of side exhaust, factory (69), Hooker nest of snakes, ??

Got the vacuum tester today, will check it all out tomorrow. Does the vacuum increase when you give more throttle? I was just letting it idle and the lights wouldn't hardly open.

The side kit was off of ebay. I hope they work out. For under $250 I had to try them. The idiot that had it before me just ran straight pipes and they were all rusted and when I put on the mufflers the pipe would rub the rear tire. Will take a pick when installed.

You'll have the highest vacuum when the engine is de-cellerating but for all practical purposes the vacuum at idle will be the reading you want to focus on. When you open the throttle the vacuum will drop. If you have a stock motor you should see 24-27 inches of vacuum at curb idle.

This forum is great, there are so many of you that I have to say thank you to for guiding me step and now letting me share that with someone else.
Plug the vacuum guage into the first port from the manifold. This is the referance reading, then follow the "vacuum" side of each hose. The gauge should show the first reading all the way to the last connection, if you get a low reading " Stop " that is the leak.

78 buckshot is correct, the vacuum at idle is what you want to test.

Vacuum is produced by the engine.
At idle= high vacuum.
Throttle to floor=little or no vacuum.
Steady throttle at high way speed=highvacuum.

This will help more when we redo you timing, but for now letf fix the lights. PG

Can I use any hoses I want if they fit? The hoses on there seem to be too big and rub against each other. I think they might be causing them to leak a little. I think I just want so get new hoses all around.

As long as they don't collapse. Vacuum hoses are designed not to collapse under a vacuum.

For seat too, if you have an early C3 you can swithc to the later C3 seats. 1978 anni and above, the clamshell seats fold flat to give access to the back, they also have larger side bolster than the other ones. As long as you get seat tracks that are not power seats, should be a direct switch.