Procedure: Removing/Installing C4 Front Bumper Fascia
#1
08-17-2014, 08:31 PM
Procedure: Removing/Installing C4 Front Bumper Fascia
After an hour-long search I was unable to find a suitable procedure for this task. This should work for the ’84-’90 models and may work for all C4s. Although it is fairly straightforward to remove the fascia, the sequence of steps for putting it back on is non-trivial. The installation procedure in the Service Manual that says “Reverse removal steps…” is completely insufficient.
I had taken the fascia off about 3 weeks prior to re-installation and I didn’t remember several tricks to the reassembly. This caused multiple removal and installation of the outer air dams, side marker light brackets, nut on the outer mouldings, screws at the rear edge of the fascia and the fascia itself.
REMOVAL:
1) Mask off at least 2” of the front edge of hood and the rear edge of the fascia. Cover/protect more area if you are mechanically challenged.
2) Raise hood.
3) Disconnect battery ground cable.
4) Remove the two long wheelhouse seals that encircle the tires. (They are on the top edge of the splash shields.)
5) Remove the vacuum accumulator (“ball”) forward of the driver’s front tire (2 screws). (This will give you added room during the procedures.)
6) Remove the 12 screws and long fascia lip retaining bracket that attach the top of the fascia to the impact bar “reinforcement”. (There are 3 screw types, so make a note as to where they go. [Starting at the outside, there are 3 pointed machine thread bolts, then 2 sheet metal screws, then a sheet metal screw with washer near the center.] Also note which side of the long retaining bracket is up.)
7) On each side, remove the 4 screws attaching the rear vertical edge of the fascia to the splash shield, and the 2 upper inner screws attaching the park lamp support bracket to the splash shield.
8) There are 2 wire loom brackets that cover the side marker lamp housings on the inside. Remove their 2 vertical screws just below the front corner of the hood and move these 2 brackets out of the way.
9) Remove bulb sockets/bulbs from side marker lamp housings.
10) Remove the side marker light housings and their brackets. Note that front of the bracket that bends forward, upward and inward is on the FRONT side of the fascia upper lip, (sandwiched between the fascia lip and the impact bar).
11) Remove the outer air dams from the bottom of the fascia, 4 screws/nuts each. (Note that the screws point upward and the aluminum plate is in contact with the bolt heads. The two aluminum plates are identical.)
12) Remove the 6 screws attaching the fascia to the skid plate (underneath).
13) Remove fascia from vehicle by lifting upper edge of fascia away from “reinforcement” and at the same time rotating fascia downward.
INSTALLATION:
1) Mask off at least 2” of the front edge of hood and the rear edge of the fascia. Cover more area than that if you are mechanically challenged.
2) Raise hood.
3) Disconnect battery ground cable.
4) The front gravel shields are held on by 5 bolts each. Loosen these bolts. (This will allow easier alignment in step 7a.)
5) If removed, install the 3 mouldings across the front of the fascia, but DO NOT install the small nut at the rear of the side moulding.
6) Place padding under front of car and lay fascia on the padding.
7) PLACING FASCIA ON CAR:
7a. With the fascia rotated downward, align the notches underneath with the skid bars. Focusing on the fog lights for alignment, move the fascia inward and upward until the center lower lip slides upward, into place on the skid plate. Be sure the fascia at the side air dam locations is BELOW the front gravel shields.
NOTE: There are two tabs on the fascia just inboard of the skid bar notches. Be sure these are not too low. They must be high enough that the two side screws underneath them can be installed.
7b. Rotate the fascia upward and hook the top lip over the long metal “reinforcement”.
8) Install the 6 screws attaching the fascia to the skid plate.
9) Reinstall the outer air dams. (Recall that the screws point upward and the aluminum plate is in contact with the bolt heads. The two aluminum plates are identical.)
10) Install the Side Marker Housings onto their brackets.
11) Place the side marker light housings/brackets in place but DO NOT install any screws. (Recall that the front of the bracket that bends forward, upward and inward is on the FRONT side of the fascia upper lip, (sandwiched between the fascia lip and the impact bar).
12) Using 12 screws, install the long fascia lip retaining bracket that secures the top lip of the fascia. (There are 3 screw types: 3 machine thread bolts to the outside, 2 sheet metal screws working toward the center, then 1 sheet metal screw with washer at the center, PER SIDE.] Ensure that the retaining bracket is right side up.)
13) Fasten the side marker light housings/brackets to the fascia using 4 screws each side, and insert the bulb sockets/bulbs.
14) Install the small nut on the rear of the outer trim moulding.
15) On each side, remove the 4 screws attaching the rear vertical edge of the fascia to the splash shield, and the 2 upper inner screws attaching the park lamp support bracket to the splash shield.
16) Using their 2 vertical screws near the front corner of the hood, install the 2 wire loom brackets that cover the side marker lamp housings on the inside.
17) Install the vacuum accumulator (“ball”) forward of the driver’s front tire (2 screws).
18) Tighten the 10 bolts that hold the splash shields in place.
19) Install the two long wheelhouse seals that encircle the tires. (They are on the top edge of the splash shields.)
Hope this helps someone.
I had taken the fascia off about 3 weeks prior to re-installation and I didn’t remember several tricks to the reassembly. This caused multiple removal and installation of the outer air dams, side marker light brackets, nut on the outer mouldings, screws at the rear edge of the fascia and the fascia itself.
REMOVAL:
1) Mask off at least 2” of the front edge of hood and the rear edge of the fascia. Cover/protect more area if you are mechanically challenged.
2) Raise hood.
3) Disconnect battery ground cable.
4) Remove the two long wheelhouse seals that encircle the tires. (They are on the top edge of the splash shields.)
5) Remove the vacuum accumulator (“ball”) forward of the driver’s front tire (2 screws). (This will give you added room during the procedures.)
6) Remove the 12 screws and long fascia lip retaining bracket that attach the top of the fascia to the impact bar “reinforcement”. (There are 3 screw types, so make a note as to where they go. [Starting at the outside, there are 3 pointed machine thread bolts, then 2 sheet metal screws, then a sheet metal screw with washer near the center.] Also note which side of the long retaining bracket is up.)
7) On each side, remove the 4 screws attaching the rear vertical edge of the fascia to the splash shield, and the 2 upper inner screws attaching the park lamp support bracket to the splash shield.
8) There are 2 wire loom brackets that cover the side marker lamp housings on the inside. Remove their 2 vertical screws just below the front corner of the hood and move these 2 brackets out of the way.
9) Remove bulb sockets/bulbs from side marker lamp housings.
10) Remove the side marker light housings and their brackets. Note that front of the bracket that bends forward, upward and inward is on the FRONT side of the fascia upper lip, (sandwiched between the fascia lip and the impact bar).
11) Remove the outer air dams from the bottom of the fascia, 4 screws/nuts each. (Note that the screws point upward and the aluminum plate is in contact with the bolt heads. The two aluminum plates are identical.)
12) Remove the 6 screws attaching the fascia to the skid plate (underneath).
13) Remove fascia from vehicle by lifting upper edge of fascia away from “reinforcement” and at the same time rotating fascia downward.
INSTALLATION:
1) Mask off at least 2” of the front edge of hood and the rear edge of the fascia. Cover more area than that if you are mechanically challenged.
2) Raise hood.
3) Disconnect battery ground cable.
4) The front gravel shields are held on by 5 bolts each. Loosen these bolts. (This will allow easier alignment in step 7a.)
5) If removed, install the 3 mouldings across the front of the fascia, but DO NOT install the small nut at the rear of the side moulding.
6) Place padding under front of car and lay fascia on the padding.
7) PLACING FASCIA ON CAR:
7a. With the fascia rotated downward, align the notches underneath with the skid bars. Focusing on the fog lights for alignment, move the fascia inward and upward until the center lower lip slides upward, into place on the skid plate. Be sure the fascia at the side air dam locations is BELOW the front gravel shields.
NOTE: There are two tabs on the fascia just inboard of the skid bar notches. Be sure these are not too low. They must be high enough that the two side screws underneath them can be installed.
7b. Rotate the fascia upward and hook the top lip over the long metal “reinforcement”.
8) Install the 6 screws attaching the fascia to the skid plate.
9) Reinstall the outer air dams. (Recall that the screws point upward and the aluminum plate is in contact with the bolt heads. The two aluminum plates are identical.)
10) Install the Side Marker Housings onto their brackets.
11) Place the side marker light housings/brackets in place but DO NOT install any screws. (Recall that the front of the bracket that bends forward, upward and inward is on the FRONT side of the fascia upper lip, (sandwiched between the fascia lip and the impact bar).
12) Using 12 screws, install the long fascia lip retaining bracket that secures the top lip of the fascia. (There are 3 screw types: 3 machine thread bolts to the outside, 2 sheet metal screws working toward the center, then 1 sheet metal screw with washer at the center, PER SIDE.] Ensure that the retaining bracket is right side up.)
13) Fasten the side marker light housings/brackets to the fascia using 4 screws each side, and insert the bulb sockets/bulbs.
14) Install the small nut on the rear of the outer trim moulding.
15) On each side, remove the 4 screws attaching the rear vertical edge of the fascia to the splash shield, and the 2 upper inner screws attaching the park lamp support bracket to the splash shield.
16) Using their 2 vertical screws near the front corner of the hood, install the 2 wire loom brackets that cover the side marker lamp housings on the inside.
17) Install the vacuum accumulator (“ball”) forward of the driver’s front tire (2 screws).
18) Tighten the 10 bolts that hold the splash shields in place.
19) Install the two long wheelhouse seals that encircle the tires. (They are on the top edge of the splash shields.)
Hope this helps someone.
Last edited by Waif; 08-17-2014 at 08:41 PM.
#2
08-19-2014, 07:02 AM
I did this last year on my 90 Z waif, but since PO had changed the body to '91+, snappics of mine might not apply...
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=21294
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=21294
#3
08-20-2014, 08:23 PM
I did this last year on my 90 Z waif, but since PO had changed the body to '91+, snappics of mine might not apply...
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=21294
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=21294
#4
08-23-2014, 09:43 PM
I'm SURE it was worse. The light brackets were screwed into the fascia; not onto the crunch bar. EVAP cannister fitment was even WORSE, if you scrolled down far enough!!!
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