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engine rebuild-327/350

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engine rebuild-327/350 - 2/5/2008 4:24:41 PM   
Ttoptom

 

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OK guys, have block apart and cut piston ridges. Now shop says I have to go .30 over to clean up cyls. .007 out at top and .005 at bottom. Trying to decide to go with honing only or all the way with bore. I got car from friend who the prev. owner said was rebuilt 5000 mi ago. Right?? After tearing apart find it's a true '68 327/350 w/double hump 64cc and large journal crank and CE warranty motor. My good luck!! Going with Lunati 60103 and Performer carb (came w/car). Will use car for cruising and occasional stoplight action. Do you think this needs bore job or am I getting the 'it's a vette so lets get him?' I'm w/all the old school motorheads here. If going w/bore what's a good piston to keep comp around original 10.75-11.00 CR? Thanks guys.
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RE: engine rebuild-327/350 - 2/5/2008 5:23:13 PM   
C3 Starship



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Sorry, I don't see .002 as a prob. Hone it.
Did ya mic the cyl at several points? As you're lookin' in the hole, I'd check at every 15 min. of the clock, ya follow me here? And go top to bottom.
12 and 6 are usually more that 9 and 3.

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(in reply to Ttoptom)
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RE: engine rebuild-327/350 - 2/5/2008 5:48:41 PM   
Ttoptom

 

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Starship, it was .007 at top of bore and .005 at bottom. I know about miking at 15 min. It was out of round but that's to be expected. Just looking for more opinions.

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RE: engine rebuild-327/350 - 2/5/2008 6:18:55 PM   
73shark


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Mine was out just a little more than that and my machinist power honed with an automatic stroke power hone.  That way everything was straight, round, perpendicular, etc.

The LT-1 pistons are 11:1 with the high compression 64cc heads and 10:1 with the low compression ones.  TRW has them in .030 over.

Better to do it right now than wished you had 5,000 mi down the road.  Just my $.02.

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RE: engine rebuild-327/350 - 2/5/2008 7:44:46 PM   
C3 Starship



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Ttoptom

Starship, it was .007 at top of bore and .005 at bottom. I know about miking at 15 min. It was out of round but that's to be expected. Just looking for more opinions.


Since I don't know your background, I was just tryin' to help out.   Still, that's only a .002 dif from top to  bottom.
73shark has a great idea. And that method works just fine.
You can save the bore job for the next rebuild.
JMHO, don't cha know.....

_____________________________

1980 L-82 Fastback (forward too)
Mono composite front and rear.
Full adjust ride height and
response.
400+ hp, 454, M-22, 3.07

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o225/C3Starship/Patch.jpg

2007 H. D. Sportster, XL 883 EFI

(in reply to Ttoptom)
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RE: engine rebuild-327/350 - 2/16/2008 6:17:58 PM   
78buckshot

 

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Just cruisin' through old posts, if you had to ream the ridge then I'd say it had way more than 5000 miles on the jugs. Definitely go with the .030 over.

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RE: engine rebuild-327/350 - 2/17/2008 8:46:50 AM   
Rich G.

 

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I would agree with Buckshot. If you had a ridge big enough to cut then why mess around with a hone job. It's obvious the cylinders are getting bigger. I'd look at it this way. The engine is already out of the Vette which is a hatefull job in itself. And the engine is already apart. You are more than halfway there. ( I was right there too so I know what you mean) I would just bore it and put the new slugs in and not have to worry about doing it ever again unless I blow it up. How much will it cost you now to do it rather then later?

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RE: engine rebuild-327/350 - 2/17/2008 11:31:23 AM   
73shark


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In case there was a misunderstanding in my previous post, when I had mine power honed, it was to .030 over, not just to clean up.

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