help suspensions project

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help suspensions project - 3/30/2008 12:11:56 AM

aldous

Posts: 128
Joined: 1/5/2008
Status: offline

Hi all , I'm back...
I'm restoring the suspensions but I'm going step by step

In past days I have done:
-washed the underside
-greased all front susp fittings
-replaced front springs with the standard springs ( the PO cut the oem coils-badly-to lower the car , but the drivers side was lower than passengers)
-replaced front sway bar links and rear spring links.

please look at pics.

the car behaves far better on front control with new coils , but there are still many problems.

1) the car is still sitting low at drivers side because of the rear spring . The spring links I bought allows me just 1/5" height adjustment. too few to raise the susp 1" as I need ?the OEM spring has the leaves misaligned too.
restore the oem spring ( Gymkhana) or should I go for a composite?I'm quite happy with the steel leaf spring...

2)steering . still some play and loss of control...the PO already replaced the lower ball joints. I have still to replace the idler arm and tie rod ends and PS control valve ( possibly rebuild the steering box). Is there anything else I should do ?
I must admit that after greasing the steering fittings , I didn't noticed any improvement. the coils replacement made a big difference instead

3) VERY IMPORTANT !!!!
I have serious problems at the rear suspension , I think.
this is what happens :
-I feel the rear end going sidewise when decelerating and when I quickly move the steering wheel left-right ( chicane). the higher the speed the bigger the problem. Very scary!
-when I accelerate the car go straight , but when I release ther gas the steering wheel is moved clockwise and the car becomes very unstable ( going sidewise)
-when I apply the brakes , the car goes straight but the steering wheel moves clockwise
-in 4th gear , from 40-50mph on , when I apply-release gas , the car is very unstable ( totally scared!)

I don't feel the wheel bearings very loose. I believe the problem is the the trailing arms bushings and other rear susp bushings that are very worn
please let me know what I should replace

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< Message edited by aldous -- 3/30/2008 12:19:39 AM >

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Aldo from south Italy

1979 L82 ,4 speed, edelbrock performer rpm intake, edelbrock 600cfm carb,double hump 64cc heads 2.02/1.6 valves, Hedman Hedders dual headers, Flowmaster 40 series, Goodyear Eagle GT+4 255/60/15 , 4 Bilstein HD shocks

Post #: 1

RE: help suspensions project - 3/30/2008 12:26:33 AM

aldous

Posts: 128
Joined: 1/5/2008
Status: offline

pics of worn bushings and left-right pics of my car ( please check the different height from the floor)

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_____________________________

Aldo from south Italy

1979 L82 ,4 speed, edelbrock performer rpm intake, edelbrock 600cfm carb,double hump 64cc heads 2.02/1.6 valves, Hedman Hedders dual headers, Flowmaster 40 series, Goodyear Eagle GT+4 255/60/15 , 4 Bilstein HD shocks

(in reply to aldous)

Post #: 2

RE: help suspensions project - 3/30/2008 3:53:34 AM

riley6riley

Posts: 120
Joined: 4/12/2007
Status: online

aldous,
I am still new to this so i can't really help. Nice car though, I have one exactly like it! My interior is white and gray, how about yours.
Dan

(in reply to aldous)

Post #: 3

RE: help suspensions project - 3/30/2008 4:41:46 AM

wrwalke

Posts: 391
Joined: 11/1/2005
Status: offline

Sounds like you are on the right track. I would definitely suspect the trailing arms and assorted bushings in the rear suspension. It sounds like when the power is applied, everything is lined up and working well, but when the rear wheels aren't pushing against the weight of the car, things are getting out of alignment. I would do trailing arms and a complete rear bushing set next, especially since you plan on pulling out the rear leaf spring anyway.

bill.

(in reply to riley6riley)

Post #: 4

RE: help suspensions project - 3/30/2008 6:20:59 AM

batesy80

Posts: 61
Joined: 7/15/2007
Status: offline

Aldous, check this site out. They rebuilt my trailing arms . came back like new for a good price, only waited two weeks. http://www.bairs.com/page321.asp

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(in reply to wrwalke)

Post #: 5

RE: help suspensions project - 3/31/2008 1:47:05 AM

aldous

Posts: 128
Joined: 1/5/2008
Status: offline

Thanks to all

I can't go for a total trailing arms rebuild because I'm in Italy and shippings from-to USA are very expensive for large-heavy items.

I'll go for bushings replacements .
Not totally sure that i want to replace the OEM spring with a composite ( also because high shipping costs- 200$ about) I would like first to restore the OEM. the drivers side is 1" down in respect to passengers one.
Do you think that a spring restore like the pictured one would be successful or just time wasted?
riley6riley, you can see some pics of my 79 going to my Forums album

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_____________________________

Aldo from south Italy

1979 L82 ,4 speed, edelbrock performer rpm intake, edelbrock 600cfm carb,double hump 64cc heads 2.02/1.6 valves, Hedman Hedders dual headers, Flowmaster 40 series, Goodyear Eagle GT+4 255/60/15 , 4 Bilstein HD shocks

(in reply to wrwalke)

Post #: 6

RE: help suspensions project - 3/31/2008 9:52:10 PM

73shark

Posts: 1129
Joined: 4/18/2006
Status: online

Strut rod bushings are easy to replace, especially if you have access to a press but a vise will do.

Trailing arm bushings are a little harder but the hard part is getting the bolt out. I've always had to saw them out either with a hack saw blade (no handle) or an air reciprocating saw (a lot easier). If you go with the OEM rubber bushings, then you'll need a special tool (about $60 USD) to properly compress the rubber and flare the sleeve.

I agree with the others that a loose rear suspension is probably causing the rear end wanting to lead when you get off the gas.

_____________________________

So many toys, so little time

(in reply to aldous)

Post #: 7

RE: help suspensions project - 3/31/2008 11:22:25 PM

aldous

Posts: 128
Joined: 1/5/2008
Status: offline

73shark,

I'll go for poly bushings at trailing arms , so I don't need a press. Also because I don't want to remove completely the trailing arms. I want to take them out from for the frame pocket and replace the bushings in place not on a work bench.
Is it possible?
so you saw the bolt that fix the trailing arm in place , right? So better to get new bolts and nuts along with the bushings.
do you still have the OEM rear spring on your 73? or a new one?
I suppose you have kept your 73 substantially OEM...

_____________________________

Aldo from south Italy

1979 L82 ,4 speed, edelbrock performer rpm intake, edelbrock 600cfm carb,double hump 64cc heads 2.02/1.6 valves, Hedman Hedders dual headers, Flowmaster 40 series, Goodyear Eagle GT+4 255/60/15 , 4 Bilstein HD shocks

(in reply to 73shark)

Post #: 8

RE: help suspensions project - 4/1/2008 12:36:04 AM

Posts: 1066
Joined: 8/7/2006
Status: offline

Hi Aldo, you are making some progress in restoring your car, good for you. Just keet in mind that you can not replace some of the parts and hope for the best.
I'm not sure what you mean about your Vette being lower on one side. Many times the body mounts compress and the car will be 1/2 inch lower on one side or the other, also some came from the factory that way so it's no big deal.
If it were my car I would have replaced the upper and lower ball joints while you had the front end apart.

Front steering: If you need tie rod ends and an idler arm than you won't get the front steering 100% untill you replace those parts.

The strut rod bushings are shot, also it looks like the trailing arm bushings have seen better days, you may also need new inner and outer bearings, you can not just change the spring bushings and think that will correct the problem.

While you have the rear apart you might as well install new "U' joints on the half shafts and on the drive shaft. Also see how far the yokes on the differential pull out, over 3/8 of an inch my indicate that the rear end needs some work.
When the trailing arm bushings deteriate the car will usuall pull to one side when you accelerate but it's possible that they shift when you try to brake, that problem must be corrected asap before you crash the car or kill youself or some one else. If it's a mater of money than park the car untill you have the funds.
It takes lots of money to restore a 29 year old car back into proper shape. PG.

(in reply to aldous)

Post #: 9

RE: help suspensions project - 4/1/2008 1:09:50 AM

aldous

Posts: 128
Joined: 1/5/2008
Status: offline

Hi PG,
thanks for the tips.
that's not exhactly a matter of money. the problem is that I'm realizing problems in the time. the first days I drove my Vette , everything seemed OK to me.

- I'm waiting to be delivered to me: idler arm , upper-lower ball joints ( the lower were replaced by PO) and tie rod ends. Once I'll fit them , I think that the front end will be OK

-rear end.
yes I need to replace those bushings asap. while waiting for them , I'll go slow and I'll be careful...
Probably I should repack the rear bearings too, even if the play is not so much in my opinion and the same for left-right wheel

I already checked the main shaft for play ( almost nothing , just 1/8") but i haven't checked the half shafts...I'll do it

the rear spring is sagged at drivers side, making the car sitting 1" lower at that side in respect to the other. I have checked some C3 pics on ebay and i have seen that many c3 for sale ( with oem monospring) have the same problem

_____________________________

Aldo from south Italy

1979 L82 ,4 speed, edelbrock performer rpm intake, edelbrock 600cfm carb,double hump 64cc heads 2.02/1.6 valves, Hedman Hedders dual headers, Flowmaster 40 series, Goodyear Eagle GT+4 255/60/15 , 4 Bilstein HD shocks

(in reply to pg)

Post #: 10