RE: Procharge or supercharge? more reliable? Faster?

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RE: Procharge or supercharge? more reliable? Faster? - 9/12/2008 6:04:41 AM    maierar   Posts: 22 Joined: 7/2/2007 Status: offline Y: I have been running twin turbos with 5# and 8# (selectable by dash switch) gates for 11 months in my daily driver with no overheating issues. (in reply to Lee Willis) Post #: 11

RE: Procharge or supercharge? more reliable? Faster? - 9/16/2008 1:06:26 PM    y2001c5   Posts: 15 Joined: 7/10/2008 Status: offline what turbo system did u use bud? _____________________________ 2001 yellow c5 slp loudmouth catback blackwing intake sp500 ccw racing wheels (in reply to maierar) Post #: 12

RE: Procharge or supercharge? more reliable? Faster? - 9/16/2008 2:34:45 PM    maierar   Posts: 22 Joined: 7/2/2007 Status: offline STS, You can email me for specific gripes and smiles. (in reply to y2001c5) Post #: 13

RE: Procharge or supercharge? more reliable? Faster? - 9/22/2008 7:31:46 PM    y2001c5   Posts: 15 Joined: 7/10/2008 Status: offline what about a kenny bell twin screw supercharger? _____________________________ 2001 yellow c5 slp loudmouth catback blackwing intake sp500 ccw racing wheels (in reply to maierar) Post #: 14

RE: Procharge or supercharge? more reliable? Faster? - 9/23/2008 7:15:35 AM    Lee Willis   Posts: 1991 Joined: 7/27/2005 Status: offline quote: ORIGINAL: y2001c5 what about a kenny bell twin screw supercharger? It will have all the advantages of the Magnusen but outperform it in low end torque and high end HP (and it costs quite a bit more).  Remember: a Magnusen has enough boost to blow a stock engine apart in minutes, so Kenny Bell is only an option if you are going to build a stronger engine (I recommend an iron block). _____________________________ 2007 Aston Martin Vantage Prodrive Lincoln MKZ "Grandfather car" ''98 Z28 with iron LS 408, NOS, tricks, street driven mid 9s (sold to my youngest son for $1, Aug 28, ''07) ''02 SCd 427 cid ZO6, 704 RWHP, sold Aug. 28, ''07 (in reply to y2001c5) Post #: 15

RE: Procharge or supercharge? more reliable? Faster? - 9/23/2008 8:23:43 AM    y2001c5   Posts: 15 Joined: 7/10/2008 Status: offline i called kenny bell and the only reason its more expensive is because it comes with the hood... so i think im gonna go kenny bell with a mild tune ill let u know how it all works out ... thanks for the help guys. _____________________________ 2001 yellow c5 slp loudmouth catback blackwing intake sp500 ccw racing wheels (in reply to Lee Willis) Post #: 16

RE: Procharge or supercharge? more reliable? Faster? - 9/23/2008 8:24:37 AM    y2001c5   Posts: 15 Joined: 7/10/2008 Status: offline ohh if i was interested in building the motor what all should i do and where sould i go to find these things? _____________________________ 2001 yellow c5 slp loudmouth catback blackwing intake sp500 ccw racing wheels (in reply to y2001c5) Post #: 17

RE: Procharge or supercharge? more reliable? Faster? - 9/23/2008 1:54:11 PM    Lee Willis   Posts: 1991 Joined: 7/27/2005 Status: offline First, as to the motor, if it were me I would leave it alone for now: you have some preliminaries to do and a SCr and all to add which will be fun and give a hoot more power.  Down the road then, you can build up a motor and add an extra 200-300 HP on top of what the SCr and stock engine gives.  first, I would do the following prior to putting on the SCr. 1) Add a double-core radiator with integral engine oil cooler.  Not sure where you find it (you''''ll have to do some homework), but they are available (i had one) and it is important because: you will exceed or reach the limit of the stock radiator very soon with these mods (more power==> more cooling need) and the double core radiato0r takes just a bit more space than the stock::it is much much better to get it in there now before you add new equipment brakets, move things around, put new induction plumbing etc. so that you can do that and fuss and fit that to the radiator let it have its needed realestate first, then work the others around it.  2) Long tube headers.  1 7/8 diameter, with oversize cats.  they add power, they help get all that extra exhaust the cylinders, and they actually lower stress and heat on the cylinders, all good. 3) Move the battery to the trunk (Lingenfelter has a kit worth getting make sure they send the cables as part of the kit, they sometimes forget).  The SCr weighs about an extra 100 lbs and moving the battery tot he trunk essentially keeps the F/R balance at stock percentages. 4) Mini-tub kit (also Lingenfelter) lets you run up to 345 section tires on the rear, which you will need.    Then I would do the SCR.  Only advice there ithat won''''t come with the kit is most screw SCR kits have you cut the wires leading to the ppassenger''''s side of the dirve by wire throttle assembly, and splice in an extra 12 to 20 inches of length (depending on kit) to route around the SCr and its plumbing.  Do not use crimp connectors here.  Solder and heat shrink on new insulation (trust me, intermitant resistance changes in crimp on connectors in these wires will put the engine computer into limp mode). Limit boost to where you have only about 475 RWHP.  Over 500 and you will blow upthe engine - strangely, this often is not a failure of rods and crank, but you literally blow the block apart (split a cylinder wall and the block - Ugh).  After you get all this sorted out, get used to doing 11 second quarters, and get jaded with around 550-565 flywheel HP, then look at building up an engine.  Here, there is just a lot of reserach to do.  I don''''t recommend trying to build the engine yourself unless y ou have a lot of experience.  I had the 427 C5R block LS engine for my ''''vette built by Charlie Hempfield (built the ''''96 Daytona winner, other great winners), and we bought the iron short block 408 in the Camaro, which is bulletproof and cheap ($4500), from Horsepower Engineering in HOuston.  The iron block (its just a chevy LS series truck block is all) weighs 90 lbs more than alum, but it won''''t come apart under heavy boost and it holds held bolts better so you don''''t blow head gaskets.    Or you can buy a complete engine, various grades and strengths and displacements,  from any of numerous companies (Lingefelter, SLP, Horsepower Engineering, MTI, etc.) and drop it in. Good luck _____________________________ 2007 Aston Martin Vantage Prodrive Lincoln MKZ "Grandfather car" ''98 Z28 with iron LS 408, NOS, tricks, street driven mid 9s (sold to my youngest son for $1, Aug 28, ''07) ''02 SCd 427 cid ZO6, 704 RWHP, sold Aug. 28, ''07 (in reply to y2001c5) Post #: 18

RE: Procharge or supercharge? more reliable? Faster? - 9/23/2008 2:13:40 PM    y2001c5   Posts: 15 Joined: 7/10/2008 Status: offline thanks for all the info been a big help _____________________________ 2001 yellow c5 slp loudmouth catback blackwing intake sp500 ccw racing wheels (in reply to Lee Willis) Post #: 19

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