To stroke or not to stroke, that is the question.

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To stroke or not to stroke, that is the question.

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To stroke or not to stroke, that is the question. - 10/3/2008 7:00:38 PM

blueshark

Posts: 2180
Joined: 7/20/2006
From: Dickson, TN.
Status: offline

Hi folks, Couple of quick questions. I have a couple of nice older 4 bolt 350 blocks ready yo build.One is from an ''80 Z28 and the other is from an 86 truck. the truck block is a high nickle block.

Question #1 Which block to use? My choice the truck block.

Now the big question....

Given the fact that 383 is "passé'' ...What would you suggest as a stroker engine? ..and what bore and components would you use?

Like most I''m looking for the biggest(huge)bang for the buck.

give it some thought and let it rip.

Cheers and thanks

_____________________________

God Speed Rich.
www.larosadesign.net
Design, Engineering,Tooling
www.stantonscustomrods.net

"Welcome to Tennessee,
The patron state of shootin' stuff".......Shooter

Post #: 1

RE: To stroke or not to stroke, that is the question. - 10/4/2008 1:52:28 PM

C3 Starship

Posts: 4814
Joined: 7/25/2006
Status: offline

I agree on the truck engine.

Ya might contemplate....
shorter throw crank and longer rods for a faster wind.
Bore to 30 over and cam the heck out of her.

Just a thought there Bro.

_____________________________

1980 L-82 Fastback (forward too)
Mono composite front and rear.
Full adjust ride height and
response.
400+ hp, 454, M-22, 3.07

2007 H. D. Sportster, XL 883 EFI

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(in reply to blueshark)

Post #: 2

RE: To stroke or not to stroke, that is the question. - 10/4/2008 4:27:22 PM

78buckshot

Posts: 671
Joined: 1/28/2007
From: Michigan
Status: offline

Hey blueshark, the ''80 block is no doubt a two-piece rear main seal, the ''86 may be either two-piece or one piece as that was the year that chevy was changing over. I''ve had no trouble with two piece seal blocks but you probably want to go with the one piece. The big advantage to the high nickel content is that the bore will polish better and provide a better and longer ring seal. As for displacement, most factory blocks wont handle more than .060 in. bore enlargement so your limited in that area for increasing cu.in. It depends on what your after when it comes to stroke, you can get 3.75 cranks at good prices and use either 5.7 in. or 6.00 in. rods with very little machine work needed. If you get much more drastic than that the price rises pretty quickly for parts and shop work.

(in reply to blueshark)

Post #: 3

RE: To stroke or not to stroke, that is the question. - 10/4/2008 9:05:28 PM

blueshark

Posts: 2180
Joined: 7/20/2006
From: Dickson, TN.
Status: offline

If I do it I will be doing everything myself with exception to the over boring and crank and cam line boring. The assembly and clearance grinding I will do my self. That should keep Machine shop cost low. Cleaning and all boring with cam bearings installed is around 200.00. I can get a nice set of "done" double hump heads from the same shop for about 300.00. I figure I''m willing to spend some where around 2-2500.00 total cost. Not real worried about shiny stuff just good parts. What can I do for that. Never built a SBC.

I really don''t have the money right now or anything to put it in but that should change in a month or two. Just doin'' some "home work". I''ve been looking for a ''96-''99 Montecarlo to change over to real wheel drive with a 6 speed. Should be a fun project. I''d do it with a big block, but I think there would be toooo much reconstruction in the engine box. I still have to finish the LS4 C3 as well. Thanks for the replies guys, Keep ''em coming.

Cheers

_____________________________

God Speed Rich.
www.larosadesign.net
Design, Engineering,Tooling
www.stantonscustomrods.net

"Welcome to Tennessee,
The patron state of shootin' stuff".......Shooter

(in reply to 78buckshot)

Post #: 4

RE: To stroke or not to stroke, that is the question. - 10/5/2008 8:03:36 AM

C3 Starship

Posts: 4814
Joined: 7/25/2006
Status: offline

Sounds like a great deal on the heads.

I''m sure ya know about this, but for the bennifit for others,....
concider porting and polishing. Relieving is a little tricky if ya never done it. The head shop could prob help out with it.
With all the work that you''ll do youself, that 2-2500 will put out a real screamer.

I''m excited for ya, can''t wait to hear how it comes out.

(in reply to blueshark)

Post #: 5

RE: To stroke or not to stroke, that is the question. - 10/5/2008 2:38:16 PM

Lee Willis

Posts: 1991
Joined: 7/27/2005
Status: offline

383 may be passe, but on the other hand it works well. I''d go with a really good crank/rod/piston set made and balanced for that and a .40 over bore, then really focus on good heads, port and polish or if you can afford it AFR.

_____________________________

2007 Aston Martin Vantage Prodrive
Lincoln MKZ "Grandfather car"
''98 Z28 with iron LS 408, NOS, tricks, street driven mid 9s (sold to my youngest son for $1, Aug 28, ''07)
''02 SCd 427 cid ZO6, 704 RWHP, sold Aug. 28, ''07

(in reply to C3 Starship)

Post #: 6

RE: To stroke or not to stroke, that is the question. - 10/5/2008 4:28:56 PM

C3 Starship

Posts: 4814
Joined: 7/25/2006
Status: offline

Whoa, wait a minute there, Lee. What the heck is ''AFR''?

(in reply to Lee Willis)

Post #: 7

RE: To stroke or not to stroke, that is the question. - 10/5/2008 8:14:31 PM

blueshark

Posts: 2180
Joined: 7/20/2006
From: Dickson, TN.
Status: offline

Here''s a link for AFR heads. Nice...Nice and pricey,LOL!
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&Ntt=AFR+heads&searchinresults=false&N=700+115&y=11&x=37

383 does work, real well. But I try to be different and it seems that every body and their brother has a "383 Stroker"

I found a few Forged rotating assembly kits by Eagle and Scat on Summit. They were 396, 395, 393, and 388. 396 might be nice but I was looking for something 400 or better. Any ideas where to look? Would individual parts be comparable in cost?

I think I have the porting and polishing covered....Hopefully!

A buddy of mine worked for Rouch on their flow bench and has done several sets of CJ heads for me in the past. I''ll have to bribe him with a case of Bud Ice to get him to do Chevy heads but I think he''ll do them for me.

_____________________________

God Speed Rich.
www.larosadesign.net
Design, Engineering,Tooling
www.stantonscustomrods.net

"Welcome to Tennessee,
The patron state of shootin' stuff".......Shooter

(in reply to C3 Starship)

Post #: 8

RE: To stroke or not to stroke, that is the question. - 10/7/2008 2:14:05 PM

Lee Willis

Posts: 1991
Joined: 7/27/2005
Status: offline

I know 408 and even 421 is possible with a cast iron LS1, 2, 3 or 6 engine, but the biggest I''ve seen for pre-LS1 blocks (unless they are decked aftermarket castings) is 396. You can go over that if you have the siamesed bore (400 cubic inch factory) small block, but that is not what you have nor a recommended platform for a build up.

_____________________________

2007 Aston Martin Vantage Prodrive
Lincoln MKZ "Grandfather car"
''98 Z28 with iron LS 408, NOS, tricks, street driven mid 9s (sold to my youngest son for $1, Aug 28, ''07)
''02 SCd 427 cid ZO6, 704 RWHP, sold Aug. 28, ''07

(in reply to blueshark)

Post #: 9

RE: To stroke or not to stroke, that is the question. - 10/8/2008 9:32:11 AM

blueshark

Posts: 2180
Joined: 7/20/2006
From: Dickson, TN.
Status: offline

Well I might just have to stick with a 396. I found a nice Lunati Sledgehamer kit for around 2g''s. What kind of HP is obtainable out of a SBC? With maybe a pump Gas / Av fuel mix. (100-08)I can get a "Student Pilots" discount at the local airfield. Still high but a little more reasonable. LOL!

_____________________________

God Speed Rich.
www.larosadesign.net
Design, Engineering,Tooling
www.stantonscustomrods.net

"Welcome to Tennessee,
The patron state of shootin' stuff".......Shooter

(in reply to Lee Willis)

Post #: 10