Tilt knuckle replacement
 

93 base ' vert....can I change out the tilt knuckle without taking the column out?

Welcome to the forum.
Probably best to get a copy of the factory service manual unless someone else here has done it before and can answer.

Having been a flat rater all my working tech life, always looking for a quicker way. FSM , I have. Thank you. It wants the column removed. why is that? On other GM cars , the column can stay in to change the knuckle. I am a big guy and crawling in under the dash area isn't my strong suit.

I guess you could skip the step that says remove the column and go to the next step and see if that can be done with the column still in the vehicle.

This job is a serious PITA! Gonna just pull the column. Thanks for your input!

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9db81dd45d.png
Tilt knuckle with steering shaft assembly
You can NOT remove the tilt knuckle without removing the steering column. I'm in to process of rebuilding my column now. If you simply want to pull the screws and add loctight and not replace the tilt knuckle you can do all of that with the column in the car.

To remove the tilt knuckle, the joint of the upper and lower steering shaft assembly is too large for the knuckle to slide over and has to come out before the knuckle comes out. There are two push-on locking rings on the bottom of the steering column that need to be removed to get the steering shaft assembly out. If you are going that far, might as well replace the plastic fitting between the upper and lower steering shafts. Ecklers sells them.

Welcome to the forum.
Thanks for the info.

Thatguy, thank you.
 

I agree on the FSM. The pins on my original tilt knuckle had a different thread pattern than what the store sold on the removal tool. I was able to re-tap the threads and get it to work. Unfortunately I didn't something aligned quite right with the ignition selector and found out the new knuckle's pins fit what the tool originally had, so off to purchase another one from napa for me.

Another thing to watch out for is the tilt spring retaining cap, the one with the square hole. When I went to put mine back in the 'ears' had gouged the inside and prevented re installation. I definitely did some damage to my cap and hope tomorrow when I remove it again to get the ignition selector straightened out I don't have to replace it. So, pay attention and take a look inside before re-installation and just double check you don't needs a little dremel action. Use a large Philips head in the square while the wheel is tilted up. The tilt up will release some stress from the spring.

Thanks Shark.

I just ran by the junk yard to replace my tilt spring retaining cap and was considering also grabbing the column housing since mine was marred inside that area. After inspection of another at the junk yard it seems like a typical condition so I would highly expect to need to break out a dremel or round file.

I also came on another thought/ question. My original tilt knuckle has two pins where the tilt locking mechanism grabs a hold of while the replacement only has one. Think this is a concern? Is a junk yard replacement better because of this? You can sort of see the two pins I'm talking about in the previous picture I posted. They are between the two manila, hexagon, plastic pads toward the top of the picture.