Alright guys (and ladies), i've got only 3,000 miles until the warranty on my 2001 automatic expires. i've only used the warranty twice. the first time was to have the steering wheel position sensor replaced (it was causing my active handling to go crazy! and i didn't want to bother taking the steering wheel loose or out myself), and the second was to have the air system checked (code P0410-which, by the way i got a new air pump, checked for leaky hoses and still get that code occassionally....)anyway, do you all think its safe to NOT purchase another warranty, and just do any repairs that come up myself? I don't know what kinds of big expensive repairs might be coming up over the course of this cars life. i've had it over two years now, and only those two things above have happened.

also, thinking about some minor mods. is there much performance and/or fuel economy and/or sound at the pipe difference between a simple K&N air intake system, and a ducted system?

Whats the best all-around, simple to install exhaust upgrade?

i'd like to customize this car a little more than it currently is, but NOT do anything crazy engine-wise that could set off all kinds of codes and require tons of regular maintenance. just looking for a little meaner sound, and a little more power. hoping to have our new 6 car garage finished within the next year (designed myself, complete with a pit for easier access to the undersides of the cars), and will start a C3 project car, and then in another couple of years the C5 will be paid off and would love to pick up a C6, so not looking to spend thousands upon thousands of dollars on the C5 either....any suggestions on the C5 mods?

 

the last 2 vettes that I have had, had the tranny go out around 100,000 miles. about a $1,000 repair

 

lots of things I can do, lots of things I CAN NOT do........warranty covers the second part of that statement.

 

...a 6-car garage? Dang, you are one lucky guy! I have a 3-car garage with 5 cars (two teens park in the street). An air intake system and a cat-back are great bolt-ons that are not hard to do. Of the intakes, the best is probably the Callaway Honker, but at $500 or so, is not inexpensive. I have a Halltech Stinger intake system, but did my own CAI modification. As far as exhaust, I went with Borla Stingers which do drone a bit at certain speeds and engine load conditions. If you can't stand any drone at all, the Z06 Titaniums or ant Corsa exhaust will do, but neither sounds as good as the Borlas.

If your EBCM fails, a dealership will charge you $1200 to replace it. Fortunately, you can remove it, yourself and have absfixer repair and send it back for $150 or so. The only other common issue is the smog pump check valve that is situated behind the intake manifold. That fails every 2-3 years and runs $450 to repair at the dealership.

Dave

 

I've had my 2000 Hdtp since new, Sep '99. I had 4 issues, all warranty, all at the 10-13 month of ownership. Seat belt, column lock, BCM, & bad ground on rear clip. All were fixed by the dealer without issue. I've had zero problems since. Like stated above, some things I can fix/repair, others I would need to have someone else do. I chose not to buy an Extended Warranty, but, have budgeted some for repairs by paying myself what a warranty would cost. So far it's sitting there, untapped.

My only mods are Corsa Indys, and BPP Vortex intake. I think they both are great and have no desire to change either. I've had them since mid 2000. All I've had to do is routine maintenance, thus making this Vette very economical, and satisfying.

YMMV

I envy your garage.

Don

 

No offense but my overall reaction is: what are you doing building a six car garage, and planning C3 project, if you are making payments on an eight year old vette and so leveraged you even have to think about getting a warranty to avoid possibly high future repair costs? Its a Chevy: and thus cheap to maintain and repair -- you can replace the entire engine in a 'vette for about $4K, if you shop around and do the work yourself. I'd just take any risk you can fix it down the road if it breaks.

 

Hey guys......what about the fuel sending units/steering lock/heater displays going dim/water leaks on frc's/elect issues etc. Architect was asking for other possible issues that might be worth another warranty.....I have a 2000 FRC and have had all those issues including a noisy diff that was replaced @ 75000 miles.....don't get me wrong I love my car and just like I told my wife, I don't want to hear any **** about insurance/tires/fuel and repairs, if you can't afford those things you don't need this car...by the way Architect I didn't renew any warrantys...havent regretted it yet, now @ 130000 miles....only waiting for my headliner to come in, then I can finally put car back together....and by the way, theres nothing wrong with being thrifty

 

People offer aftermarket warranties because they make off them -- specifically they make money off of you.

Despite all the things that could go wrong, a 'vette is still a Chevy and realatively cheap to maintain and repair. So, I still recommend strongly that if you can't afford to take the risk of repair costs, getting a warranty won't really fix the matter -- besides, in the experience of friends who have them, much of the electrics that break are not covered.

 

this is why i love this forum, lots of good, honest feedback and advice.

no offense taken! really i just noticed the other day that the mileage on the car was getting close to ending the warranty, and having not ever priced an "aftermarket warranty", i hadn't really put much thought into the overall cost of things. all i was remembering was how expensive it seemed to replace things on my old iroc z28 camaro in college...but then again, that was college when there was absoultely no "play" money in my account, and i made about a tenth of what i bring home now. seems silly now that you mention it.. thanks for putting it into perspective lee.

the sending unit i have had problems with a long while back, but so far ("knock on wood") a bottle of techron about twice a year keeps that resolved.

i did have to change the oil pressure sensor, that was a royal b.

and the heads up fried on me a couple of years ago when the car sat out in the summer for over a week. i finally took the interior apart and installed a new hud this year.

that steering lock thing happened to me on my 6speed manual i had about 8/9 years ago, that issue only occurs in manuals doesn't it?

you are all awesome for taking the time to resond. i think i've gotten some excellent advice here. if you think of anything else, please post! id be happy to read it!

 

As to the mods, this is based on lots of experience with LS engines, all of it dynoed:
- a simple filter & filter box change, like to a K&N or similar non-ducted system, will not give you anything that will consistently show up on a dyno. A ducted system, installed well with no gaps and drawing from under and near the nose (or via a ram air hood scoop) so it really gets cool air will make maybe 10 HP at the top end given the car is moving (you won't see this on the dyno but you might see .05 sec at the track), but they just don't produce any big power gain, despite claims of manufacturers or the guy down the street who installed a K&N filter and swears it lowered is 1/4 time by two seconds.
- Most cat backs are about the sound - at least on stock or near stock engines -- they will give you maybe 10 HP, but many give you nothing at all and a few actually take away a HP or two. On LS6 engines you can actually lower the HP (but slightly raise low end torque) by removing cats and mufflers entirely -- don't know about the LS1 but the LS6 needs a bit of backpressure at the top to perform as intended. Regardless, don't count of a new H pipe and cat back to give you anything that you can verify. Similarly, oversize cats are needed only if you go for an additional 100+ HP.
- Long tube headers are the single best mod you can make to an LS engine. A good set with add about 25 ft lbs and RWHP and just wake up the engine's attitude. Have a set put on with a Honker and a cat-back of your choice and have the engine tuned on the dyno by someone who knows what they are doing, and you ought to pick up between 30 and 35 RWHP. I love headers because: they increase power output, increase mileage, and decrease internal stress on the entine slightly (however, assuming you use that extra HP, that will increase stress on the drivetrain slightly.
- The only other external "bolt on" that will add enough power to really make a difference is a really good (FAST) intake manifold and/or throttle body. These really don't add that much more on stock engines (maybe 10 HP), but add this to all the above and assume a really good tune and you might get to 45 additional RWHP.
- Finally, you can change out the springs and rockers for higher ratio ones: this is a bit of a cheap shot way of increasing came lift and a dead end (you can't use these with a non-stock cam or any future internal mods) but will give you a bit more power at the top - maybe you are up to 50-55 RWHP gain now.
- At this point, you have spent about $4000+ ($1000 for headers with welded cats, etc., $800 for a cat back, $500 for a Honker, $700 for a FAST and new throttle body, $700 for rockers and springs, and $400 for a tune, for about 50 verifiable RWHP, or roughly $80 per, which is right at my rule of thumb for what real, no-BS additional power costs on a 'vette (be thankful, on an Aston its about $220 each). At this point, you might think instead of just finding another grand and popping on a Magnusen SCr kit, which by itself will add 100 to 125 verifiable RWHP (even more with headers and such).
- All this is about what you can really expect, but . . . if you have a tired or won engine you can't expect it to take much additonal power and hard driving that uses it. And for the record, you can't expect an LS1 in good condition to go beyond 450 RWHP and stay together for any length of time: (I know from much of my own experience plus that of many friends).