need help bad
 

Subject; 1986 4+3 corvette convertible-----this vette lost all clutch padal ---it was taken to a shop and had the entire clutch system replaced---master,slave clutch.flywheel pressure plate and throwout bearing---it was bleed to hell---it took 2 weeks to get it to work after all was replace ----after a week the pedal has no pressure again and almost went throuh the garage door when it was started---the repairs cost 1900.00 plus at this shop-----what is the problem? --help can anyone help?----i'm going to have to take it back to this shop that doesn't seem to be able to fix it.......

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My first thought, is look for an signs of a leak. Fluid on the ground, or any wetness at connections for the hydrolic lines. :eek:The shop may have missed tightening a connection.

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There are no leaks ---the shop had to pull the trans 3 times and replace new parts they already tried----it appearsthere issomething very strange going on with the car---the entire hydraulic system was replaced and then re-replaced with the thinking the new parts may have bee defective ----the shop was baffled and i'm still not convinced that they can fix it----I'm ready to talk to a lawyer about the shop...

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As long as the shop is still trying to fix the prob, and there are no additional charges, a lawyer isn't going to help. ( unless he can fix the prob :D)
It kinda sounds to me like the cups (seals)on the actuating pistons are giving out, or the cups are installed backwards. They are very simular to brake system pistons and cups. There is one piston in each, the master and slave cylinders. Since there are no leaks, it sounds like the fluid is bypassing the cups, thus not letting pressure to build to move the pistons..

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Are they "bench bleeding" the master cylinder before they install it on the car?, if there not , in some cases it's almost impossible to get all of the air out of the new master cylinderafter it's been mounted on the car. Thats the only thing I can think of that could possibly cause a completely new system not to work.

Also, a tip on bleeding the lines and slave cylinder. After the master cylinderhas been bench bled, and mounted on the car, make sure it's topped of with fluid, then open the bleed valve on the slave cylinder and let gravity do the bleeding, it may take a little while, be sure to keep the reservoir topped off with fluid while they bleed. Don't pump the clutch to try to bleed it, it can suck air back into the master cylinder then you're right back to square one, and you will have to bench bleed it again. When you see a steady drip or stream of fluid coming from the bleed valve, close the valve off.

If you have a good peddle, drive the car for a little while, then bleed the line and slave cylinder again to remove any residual air that may have been trapped.

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WHEN YOU GO BACK, TELL THEM TO REPAIR NOTHING WHEN THEY FIND THE PROBLEM!!! TELL THEM TO SHOW YOU WHAT IS WRONG, BEFORE THEY FIX IT - BEFORE THEY EVEN BREATHE ON IT. OTHERWISE THEY MIGHT ATTEMPT TO SAY IT'S NOT A PROBLEM THEY CREATED, BUT ANOTHER PROBLEM, THAT YOU NEED TO PAY ADDITIONAL FOR, TO GET FIXED.

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went back to the shop again----they replaced the hose ,master and slave cylynder again----still can't get the clutch to work ----there is nothing that appears to be normal about this job---and nothing that hasn't been replaced 2 to 3 times( entire clutch system)----the shop is totally baffled and so am I ----what could be going on with this clutch------

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A hydraulic line could be blocked or collapsed. Are they all new too?