I can't find any 1963-1967 cars locally to buy. I am in CT. There seems to be a lot of possibilities 1,000 to 2,000 miles away, but you can't take a trip to look at every lead. Are there inspectors that you can hire local to the area? I hate to buy sight unseen despite face time, pictures, etc

 

The best inspectors are members of local Corvette clubs, preferrably a local judge specializing in the C series you are shopping for. Be clear that you are willing to pay , up front and negotiate a price. Most folks will charge a nominal fee. Google the name of the local club Pres as your first contact.

 

Thanks. I'll give that a try

 

Absolutely correct.

When I was searching for a C2, I found one that looked interesting in Denver. I live in north Alabama. I hired an NCRS member that is also a qualified appraiser to go look at the car for me. He had to travel about a hour one way, plus the time to look the car over. He told me all of this up front and we agreed on a fee for his services.

He did a good job looking over the car and giving me appropriate feedback on it. His review of the car convinced me to go see the car. I made a deal with the seller ( a consignment shop in Denver) to hold the car for me for a $500 deposit. Our agreement is that I would purchase the car and wire transfer the remainder of the purchase price if the car met my expectations.

The car was everything I hoped for and then some. I had my bank wire transfer the agreed sales price, minus the deposit immediately. 30 minutes later the consignment shop had the full purchase price in their account.

They even helped me arrange to have the car shipped to me in north Alabama.

Steps for buying a car long distance:

1. Locate the car you are interested in.
2. Contact the seller and ask all of the questions you want answered.
3. If necessary, ask for additional photographs of the vehicle you are interested in.
4. If all of this checks out OK, locate an appraiser / inspector in the local area to review the car for you. It doesn't hurt to ask the seller if they know of someone in the local area, but be aware of who they recommend. Get on the various forums and see if there is someone in the local area that can assist you. Make sure that your inspector KNOWS what he / she is looking at. I once had an inspector who was looking at a 1956 Corvette that I had for sale ask me where the trim tag was located for this year Corvette. (:
5. Contact your inspector / appraiser and discuss your questions and concerns in detail. Make sure the inspector knows what your areas of interest are, and also make sure he / she is qualified to inspect the vehicle you are considering.
6. Review the inspectors report (either written or verbal) and decide if there are additional things you wish to have checked out. If so, re-negotiate the terms with your inspector to get those things checked out.
7. If you are still interested in the car at this point, it is time to start a serious conversation with the seller. Personally, I do not travel long distance to look at a car unless we have agreed of a total price before hand. I will make my offer, and agree to pay that amount contingent upon my final inspection. If the seller agrees to those terms, then it is time to make travel arrangements.
8. I usually make an agreement with the seller to accept a deposit. The purpose of the deposit is two-fold. One, it shows the buyer that I am serious about the car, as I now have money involved, and two, it holds the car until I can get to the location to see the car. The seller and I will agree of the deposit amount, and the length of time that the seller will hold the car. The usual hold period in no more than two weeks, which is easily enough time to arrange travel plans, etc.
9. THIS STEP IS IMPORTANT - Keep the seller posted on your plans as you make travel arrangements, etc. Stay in touch, maintain communications until you actually get to the car. Nothing frustrates a seller more than a potential buyer that does not communicate with the seller.
10. Go see the car, do your own inspection, ask the questions you want to ask. Do not hesitate to point out deficiencies that may show up on your inspection. Hopefully your inspector already alerted you to these issues, but if not, they may be deal breakers.
11. If the car does not measure up to your expectations, decide for yourself if the car is worth "something" to you, even with the deficiencies. Point out the deficiencies to the seller POLITELY and make sure the seller knows that these were unexpected issues. If these issues really are deal breakers, thank the seller and be on your way. If the issues can be "lived with" but at a reduced price, tell the owner that. The worst they can say is no. Yes, you agreed on a price up front, but that up front agreement was contingent upon your final inspection.

When I was looking for a car, I found a 57 in the Chicago area. I went through all of these steps, but my inspector did not do his job properly. Once I got there and saw the car in person, I knew the deal was off. I politely told the seller that I was not interested; I did not even take the car for a test drive. The seller was already having second thoughts about the agreed to sales price (he wanted more) so that made my polite rejection of the car very easy. The seller was not upset, since he was now off of the hook for the agreed to price. I, on the other hand, was out the cost of the inspection, plus travel costs, etc. Fortunately, there was a dear old friend of mine living in the Chicago area, so I took the opportunity to spend a few days visiting (which was part of my plan all along).

 

I wish there was a list or contact information on NCRS judges to contact by state or area where the car is located

 

Not all NCRS judges are willing to be inspections / appraisals.