80-82 rear bumper emblem.
#11
02-21-2008, 08:51 AM
RE: 80-82 rear bumper emblem.
pg,
I used a folding rule, the one I use when I do any woodworking and/or finishing work. A tape has that darn sliding end which is good for an 1/8th to a 16th of an inch of error, if you don't know what you're doing with it. A rule eliminates this possibility of error.
From the two inside (right and left)tail lights; find 22 5/8" from inside to inside, and measure up 4 9/16" from the raised body line that goes from the back of one wheel well aroundto the other. This horizontal raised body line is 7/8" below the bottom of the tail lights. So 4 9/16" above that body line, this 22 5/8" long lineis what the bottomofthe "CORVETTE" emblem will sit on. (The tail lights are oval shape.) Measure 7" in from the inside of each (right and left)inside tail light on that 22 5/8" line. These two points-7" in from the inside of each inside tail light, are the end points of the "CORVETTE emblem." The "CORVETTE" emblem is 8 5/8" (8 11/16") from end to end in the center. (This measurement includes also the lower wider black edges of the two end letters, "C" and "E.")
Once you find the bottom line for the emblem to sit on; 22 5/8" inside to inside and
49/16" above the raised body line, and measure 7" from each side; end points (right and left) of emblem, you can center up the emblem from there, as it's very possible that the emblems vary an 1/8th to a 1/16th of an inch. And quite possibly the tail light measurement from inside to inside may vary also. In any event, this conglomeration of measurements will get your emblem in great position. Good Luck.
I used a folding rule, the one I use when I do any woodworking and/or finishing work. A tape has that darn sliding end which is good for an 1/8th to a 16th of an inch of error, if you don't know what you're doing with it. A rule eliminates this possibility of error.
From the two inside (right and left)tail lights; find 22 5/8" from inside to inside, and measure up 4 9/16" from the raised body line that goes from the back of one wheel well aroundto the other. This horizontal raised body line is 7/8" below the bottom of the tail lights. So 4 9/16" above that body line, this 22 5/8" long lineis what the bottomofthe "CORVETTE" emblem will sit on. (The tail lights are oval shape.) Measure 7" in from the inside of each (right and left)inside tail light on that 22 5/8" line. These two points-7" in from the inside of each inside tail light, are the end points of the "CORVETTE emblem." The "CORVETTE" emblem is 8 5/8" (8 11/16") from end to end in the center. (This measurement includes also the lower wider black edges of the two end letters, "C" and "E.")
Once you find the bottom line for the emblem to sit on; 22 5/8" inside to inside and
49/16" above the raised body line, and measure 7" from each side; end points (right and left) of emblem, you can center up the emblem from there, as it's very possible that the emblems vary an 1/8th to a 1/16th of an inch. And quite possibly the tail light measurement from inside to inside may vary also. In any event, this conglomeration of measurements will get your emblem in great position. Good Luck.
#12
02-21-2008, 08:46 PM
RE: 80-82 rear bumper emblem.
Texas Jim, thank you so much.That is just what I needed. I know that it took you some time and effort to get the measurementsfor me and I appreciate it.
73shark, I wish it came with trim tape, I don't have the talent to cut out all the letters.
blueshark, good tip to use masking tape and run the drill backwards to start.
Thanks again for all the help, two more days to work then I'll "get 'er done". PG.
73shark, I wish it came with trim tape, I don't have the talent to cut out all the letters.
blueshark, good tip to use masking tape and run the drill backwards to start.
Thanks again for all the help, two more days to work then I'll "get 'er done". PG.
#13
02-21-2008, 09:54 PM
RE: 80-82 rear bumper emblem.
After looking at the back side of the lettering and seeing that it's not flush, not sure it would work that good anyway. Did conceive of using a gasket punch for the C, O, & Es since they appear to be round. But since you're probably never going to remove it, the holes with the speed nuts is probably the best way to go.
#14
02-21-2008, 10:53 PM
RE: 80-82 rear bumper emblem.
pg,
I'm really glad I could help. You getting your emblem on correctly is well worth the time it took me to do the measuring. You're very welcome. Good Luck with the project.
I'm really glad I could help. You getting your emblem on correctly is well worth the time it took me to do the measuring. You're very welcome. Good Luck with the project.
#15
02-21-2008, 11:29 PM
RE: 80-82 rear bumper emblem.
ORIGINAL: Texas Jim
pg,
I used a folding rule, the one I use when I do any woodworking and/or finishing work. A tape has that darn sliding end which is good for an 1/8th to a 16th of an inch of error, if you don't know what you're doing with it. A rule eliminates this possibility of error.
pg,
I used a folding rule, the one I use when I do any woodworking and/or finishing work. A tape has that darn sliding end which is good for an 1/8th to a 16th of an inch of error, if you don't know what you're doing with it. A rule eliminates this possibility of error.
#16
02-22-2008, 09:18 AM
RE: 80-82 rear bumper emblem.
blue,
That's a very true statement. I very often "burn an inch" or tell the guy holding the tape on a mark when I'm measuring down further to, "burn an inch" as to get a more accurate measurement. You have obviously been around some "lay-out" sometime in your life. Anytime I have to do "close" work that's less than six feet in length, I use a rule, other-wise, I "burn an inch." And you're also right that getting the numbers to set that emblem correctly were much easier to get with the rule.
You must do what I do when you read certain posts; visualize what that person is doing and how they're doing it as you read. Cool. That also adds to the quality of this site. Thanks for the reply.
That's a very true statement. I very often "burn an inch" or tell the guy holding the tape on a mark when I'm measuring down further to, "burn an inch" as to get a more accurate measurement. You have obviously been around some "lay-out" sometime in your life. Anytime I have to do "close" work that's less than six feet in length, I use a rule, other-wise, I "burn an inch." And you're also right that getting the numbers to set that emblem correctly were much easier to get with the rule.
You must do what I do when you read certain posts; visualize what that person is doing and how they're doing it as you read. Cool. That also adds to the quality of this site. Thanks for the reply.
#17
02-22-2008, 11:40 PM
RE: 80-82 rear bumper emblem.
ORIGINAL: Texas Jim
blue,
You have obviously been around some "lay-out" sometime in your life..........
..........You must do what I do when you read certain posts; visualize what that person is doing and how they're doing it as you read. Cool. That also adds to the quality of this site. Thanks for the reply.
blue,
You have obviously been around some "lay-out" sometime in your life..........
..........You must do what I do when you read certain posts; visualize what that person is doing and how they're doing it as you read. Cool. That also adds to the quality of this site. Thanks for the reply.
And yup on the visualize thingy too. My visual on this one included some cussing when the blade of the tape measure kept folding in the wind..MAAAAN! I hate that.....LOL!
#18
02-23-2008, 01:15 AM
RE: 80-82 rear bumper emblem.
Yes, out on a job-site, you always run into something that's 30 plus feet long. The 35' tape is the only way to go. Remember, it was the 25' first, then the 30', and then the 35'. LOL And if the 35' is too short, it's the "Hilti Laser." LOL Even the cheaperlasers are great, and accurate. Wow, it makes for a lazier (lasier)tradesman. LOL!!! Well, and what the heck is wrong with that, right??? LOL I also remember when the "Swansen Speed Square" was first out, in '82. I'm not old, but there are younger guys on the jobs now days. LOL. Thanks for the laughs.
Hey, one good tip, it WAS used by some of the older "trained" Masons, not the "chuckers." On your rule, the first six inches (prior tothe first fold) is the stick that always wears out first, you know how the paint, all the detail, starts coming off. On a brick rule, modular or jumbo, it's only one stick, one end. On a regular carpenter's rule,it's two sticks, one on each end, 1" thru 6". Take the clear two part epoxy and apply a nice smooth coat on each side of the first stick, 1" thru 6". This way, a rule lasts you about five times longer. It preserves/protects the detail perfectly. The guys who showed me this are in their 80s now. The old Masons treated their work like it was art. Many of them knew all about rock, in-detail,hunted arrow heads, one I knew had a Faragut (sp?) mine in Colorado.All the old good brick were solid and made from natural raw materials, and when the material was depleted, the brick manufacturer either shut down or moved to wherever there was more material. ie; The "Chicago Antique Colonials" which now days are torn out of the old buildings in Chicago, solids, that are made from the raw materials taken from the bottom of Lake Michigan. They're shipped all over the country and are very expensive. They look BEAUTIFUL in black mud, it brings the color out incredibly. Years back when I ran a brick (wet) saw for afew Masonry Contractors, I worked w/ those brick on afew jobs. Wood is great to work with, steel is great also, but there's something very different about brick, stone, plaster/types of portlandand the likes. Sorry for running on. I've been around alittle over the years. The "epoxy on the rule" is superworth it.
Hey, one good tip, it WAS used by some of the older "trained" Masons, not the "chuckers." On your rule, the first six inches (prior tothe first fold) is the stick that always wears out first, you know how the paint, all the detail, starts coming off. On a brick rule, modular or jumbo, it's only one stick, one end. On a regular carpenter's rule,it's two sticks, one on each end, 1" thru 6". Take the clear two part epoxy and apply a nice smooth coat on each side of the first stick, 1" thru 6". This way, a rule lasts you about five times longer. It preserves/protects the detail perfectly. The guys who showed me this are in their 80s now. The old Masons treated their work like it was art. Many of them knew all about rock, in-detail,hunted arrow heads, one I knew had a Faragut (sp?) mine in Colorado.All the old good brick were solid and made from natural raw materials, and when the material was depleted, the brick manufacturer either shut down or moved to wherever there was more material. ie; The "Chicago Antique Colonials" which now days are torn out of the old buildings in Chicago, solids, that are made from the raw materials taken from the bottom of Lake Michigan. They're shipped all over the country and are very expensive. They look BEAUTIFUL in black mud, it brings the color out incredibly. Years back when I ran a brick (wet) saw for afew Masonry Contractors, I worked w/ those brick on afew jobs. Wood is great to work with, steel is great also, but there's something very different about brick, stone, plaster/types of portlandand the likes. Sorry for running on. I've been around alittle over the years. The "epoxy on the rule" is superworth it.
#19
02-26-2008, 04:39 PM
RE: 80-82 rear bumper emblem.
Got 'er done today, Thanks to blueshark and 73shark for your tips, and a special thanks to you Texas Jim for the measurements, PG.
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