I had to replace my master cylinder. I bench bled a brand new one properly, installed it and bled the lines going to it before tightening them. I then proceeded to bleed the calipers as my original 77 manual suggested. L rear, R rear, L front and R front. Got some air out of L rear and L front. Kept adding fluid and opening bleeders a good 6 to 8 times after fluid had no bubbles. Done this way. Open bleeder with a piece of clear tubing attached. Have helper push pedal slowly and hold it a bottom till bleeder is closed then repeat. Better now but still not right. I can stop but couldn't lock them up if I had to. I have a power bleeder but is a complete mess trying to get a good seal without making a mess. Rears have 2 bleeders and fronts 1. Any tricks or suggestions? Thanks!

 

Sounds like your doing it correctly. Have your helperSLOWLY pump the pedal 3 times and hold the pressure. When the pedal hits the floor tighten the bleeder and let the pedal come up slowly. On the rear bleed the inners first. You can tap the calipers with a plastic hammer to loosen up the traped air. PG.

 

I discovered that when using air pressure on the master cylinder, it only takes a few psi. This was learned by putting about 80 psi on it, blowing the lid off and spraying brake fluid all over my friend's $8K paint job. Fortunately it was silicone fluid and didn't hurt the paint but sure was a mess to clean up. Clothes, glasses, tools, etc.

 

Do you mean left,as inpassenger side? Or driver side being left? Not trying to question your knowledge in any way.

 

Left side is always sitting in the * which would be the driver side.

 

80psi, thats funny the things we do when we learn as we go. That sound like something I would do! PG

 

That's how I've always looked at it, sittingin the driver seat, and my GM '81 'Vette manual gives that bleeding sequence which JanS states. I had always learned that you bleed a brake system starting from the wheel the greatest distance from the master cylinder and ending w/ the wheel nearest the master cylinder. Anyone know the reason for this sequence being different?

 

I'm with you Texas Jim, but last time we had this discussion, pg pointed out that the Chevy Service Manual (page 5-18) says just the opposite and so I checked and he was right. Had to eat some humble pie on that one. I think the theory was that you'd push the air from the master cylinder to the farthest corner by starting at LF and then RF, LR, and RR.

 

Hi Texas Jim, I tried to visualize why would it matter if we bleed the left or right first. Lets say we changed the master cylinder and got a little air in the line, if we bleed the right side first it would seem to me that the air would get to the distribution block and evevtually come out on the right side.
If we bleed the left side first the same air would hit the same distribution block and come out on the left.
I'm just a firm believer in If All Else Fails, Look At The instructions.
There have been lots of post from owners who had good results doing it either way.
TJ, you helped me out in the past when I had a question and for that I say Thank You.
73 Shark you have also helped me and a lot of other members with your answers and to you I say Thank You.
We all have had problem of some sort with our Corvettes and its up to those of us that have had our cars for a while to pass along the best advise to all the new owners.
Thanks again to all the regulars and lets try to make this the best forum on the net!
PG.

 

Page 5-6 of the 1977 Chevrolet service manual. Y model (Corvette) bleed L rear, R rear, L front, R front. I've always done it the "normal" way. I'll bleed them again in the spring. She's all tucked away now under her flannel cover. Auto Motive makes another bleeder cap to fit this style master cylinder. I'll order one and see if it seals any better. When the bleeder is pumped up to 5-10 PSI as suggested it seeps out around the seal. It still works but makes a mess. Thanks for the help you all!