can some one explain to me what the problems the this model vette has with brakes, is it the calipers the go bad or do the lines go bad?

 

Hi again, in most cases its the calipers that go bad, there are 4 pistons per caliper so there are 16 chances that one will leak. I got my replacement from auto zone, they are about $ 60.00 bucks each and come with a lifetime replacement. There are " O " ring calipers from the Corvette supply companys they cost a little more. Some owners prefer them but for me a life time warranty was the way to go since replacing a caliper is just a matter of removing and replacing two bolts. PG.

 

thanks again, are the brakes bleed sepratly by front n rear or together?

 

Yes the brakes are a duel system, start at the rear with the tires off, you can do this with a helper, pump the pedel hold the pressure and start at the left rear, inner first than outer, than right rear innerthan right rear outer, than leftrear and then front and then the rightfront
You may have to do it 2 or 3 times. Or you can get a pressure bleeder and do it the same way a few times, it may help to jack up the rear and tap each caliper with a block of wood or a plastic hammer to free up and traped air. A few times around and you will have a good firm pedal. Just top up the MC every now and then so you don'r run out of fluid and introduce new air into the system.PG.

 

I ment,
left rear
right rear
left front
right front. PG.

 

pg: Don't want to start anything but the '73 service manual says LF, RF, RR, & LR. This also about the opposite of what I thought I'd read someplace else which was to start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work around that way. I think if you go around twice, you're probably safe.

flyboy: The main reason the calipers go bad is the failure of the piston outer seals to keep the moisture out. Couple that the fact that brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs and retains moisture) and you will have rust occurring in the bores which leaves pits that will eventually be deep enuf to allow fluid to leak past the piston inner seal. This lead to a cottage industry that lines caliper bores with stainless steel.

 

Hi 73shark, I'm glad you double checked since it's not good to give a poster wrong advise, so I looked in Haynes and on page 9-9 # 15 they show the sequence. I also looked in the 74 service manual on page 5-18 and they say start at the line nearest the master clyinder first on either front or rear.

Haven't seen a reply from flyboy1024, so I guess were just talking to each other. PG.

 

thanks for the help, now i gotta another question, the tach does not work, the ignition was changed to an electrical, i believe i said that right but not sure. But anyway how can i get it to work again.... and were can i get a driver side window motor?

 

Hi again, the distributors on our cars came with a mechanical tach drive, which is a cable that runs from the distributor to the tach in the dash. I'm not sure how to correct that problem without going back to an original type distributor, but mabye someone else has a solution.

As far as the window motor, sometimes the brushes in the motor stick and a tap or two with a plastic hammer will get them to work again.
Many times the wire brakes where you open and close the door. Check that out before you order a new motor.
If you do need a motor for the window here is a list of places to get parts.
www.corvettecentral.com
www.corvettepartsdepot.com
www.ecklers.com
www.mamotorworks.com
www.riksvet.com
www.volvette.com
www.zip-corvette.com
and for $4.00 bucks try www.docrebuild.com

Hope this gets you started, PG.

 

Well what kind of distributor is on your car now flyboy?