For the sticky float I usually try tapping into carb.

 

If that doesn't work just pull the top off the carb. A quick clean up and back down.

 

Q-Jet rebuilds aren't that hard, just have to take your time. Even if tapping the carb works, it needs a rebuild (at a minimum an accelerator pump) after sitting that long.* The float could be gas soaked and will no longer float.

* Leaky carbs have been known to cause fires.

This guy's book and repair kits are a good place to start.
https://cliffshighperformance.com/pr...et-carburetors

 

thanks, I am expecting to have to slap a re-build kit into it.

NAPA is the only one that carries it out of the major parts stores, they show a California Emissions version for $40. and a Non-CE versions for $56.. Any quick way to tell which is which?

Neither kit comes with a float, so hopefully that isn't a problem.

I'll check out cliffs and see what he has, looks like he carries floats for only 18 bucks , sweet

 

Rebuilt the Quadrajet this weekend, it was a non-California version. Found an excellent source for the info just by searching " finding Quadrajet part numbers" which took to all the info at Chevy Hardcore.

Cost me about $75. including 2 cans of Carb cleaner and a pack of JB weld to redo the core plugs on the bottom of the main body. The factory epoxy just sloughed off when i took it apart. The old needle valve had no tip on it, hence the flooding

Car runs now without flooding or any leaks and the carb looks brand new after scrubbing with an old tooth brush.

Biggest issue now the the rotten tires and crappy exhaust. IT was a single Cat. converter with what looks a hole torn into it from hanging too low (torn hanger). What would you guys do, take it to a Meineke and tell them to do everything Cat back, or buy a kit somewhere? I have to keep the Cat to pass emissions here.

One more question, how long before the ticky-tock clock drains the battery, a week, a few days? . Disconnecting the side post battery is a PITA

thanks for the help

 

Clock shouldn't drain a good battery for month. However I feel your pain on the disconnect idea. I solved this by getting a cool little battery disconnect switch that goes in between the battery and the cable. It works by way of a thumb screw. (I have one on my '73) I f you have to have the cat, I would replace it with a modern high flow unit. Good to hear you are running now.

 

I suspect the epoxy you mentioned was applied during a previous rebuild as the plugs are just pressed in and were famously known for leaking. I always thought it was probably caused by all of the heat/cool cycles and dissimilar materials. You can actually buy machined aluminum plugs w/ O-rings on them to replace the pressed-in plugs.

 

thanks,
first test was sit for a week, did not drain battery, very good news

it doesn't look like anyone's been in there, but who knows

I have one more question. My radiator lower hose attachment pipe/hose nipple is sitting on the sway bar. The sway bar end link bushings are shot but the ones holding it to the frame look ok.
Is the radiator sagging? I can't see very well down there but is it isolated with rubber bushings or solidly bolted to car? pushing up on it dosen't yield any movement

 

I believe you should have a pair of rubber saddles the radiator sits in. I would look there first. Next would be to look at where the radiator support is bolted in, it may be able to be adjusted up. Good luck!

 

a quick search show this to be a common problem (photo from different forum car, mine isn't rusty). I went ahead and ordered 4 new isolators, although the ones on that side look intact. If nothing else, 2 AL spacers 1/4" thick between frame crossmember and swaybar bushings is easy enough to make