'74 c-3 350 4-speed

I'm in the process of reincarnating my vette. I intend to put this vette in good mechanical condition. I am painfully aware it is 48 years old. On the plus side, the car is not rusted out, anywhere. I consider what I bought a hulk. I need to turn it into a vehicle my wife and I can drive, safely, and without worries. Call me crazy if you like, but I just want to DRIVE this car, and enjoy it.

The nightmare with the radiator is finally over! I learned the radiator DOES NOT come out, no matter what you do. But when you finally figure out you need to remove the entire radiator support frame, it's a piece of cake. Then you go, looking for a radiator. DON'T. They do not exist, period. But there are plenty of people on ebay that will bait and switch you... I took my old one to Kenny's Radiator in Indy. He installed a 4-row core for $400!

Right there, in the dictionary, where it says 'white elephant,' it has a pic of a c-3 vette...

First thing I need you to know is, I'm NOT rich. I'm a 72 year old guy who has turned his share of wrenches, and then some. I have a pretty good set of hand tools, a covered concrete pad (carport), a floor jack, a set of ramps and jack stands. That's it. I certainly can not afford to pay anyone to do anything to my car.

I have a vibration in the driveline. It feels like a bad u-joint. Sometimes it's bad; other times, hardly there. I ordered 2 u-joints fro my savior, Rock Auto, only to find the u-joints on the main driveshaft have already been changed, and look good. Looking further, I found the inner u-joints on the half-shafts have never been lubed because it's impossible to get a grease gun on them. I also see the rear brake hoses came with the car! 48 year old brake hoses - the stuff night mares are made of!

So I ordered the 4 u-joints for the half shafts and the brake parts. Someone told me getting the shafts out will be... difficult. Is that true?

So I'm thinking, might as well pack the rear wheel bearings, while I'm in there. OOPS! Looking at youtube videos on that subject reveals the mother of all, bad trips. Seems like it's impossible to even get the bearings out without removing the trailing arms? And I've been warned not to try that, myself. Seems just getting the lower shock mounts off is a real PITA? A shop in Indy quoted me $2,000 to replace the rear bearings, grease seals and the rubber bushings in the trailing arms. No can do.

In my prime I wold have tackled this job, with a smile. Not anymore. Just getting the thing on the stands wore me out. It's hot as hell, outside...It seems my only option is to put it back together with the parts I have, HOPE that fixes the vibration, then sell it? I'll cry, believe me. But my experience with 'simply' replacing the radiator... which took MONTHS...

Will anyone be so kind as to help and old guy out, here? I'd like, REALLY appreciate it?

 

Sounds like you are about to have a good time! The vibration that comes and goes thats weird, most of the time it`s speed related. U joints might fix that. Wheel bearings are fun to do, I'm not sure you want to tackle that without the special tools. I had a friend that was a mr. goodwrench in the 60`s 70`s and 80`s, and then he owned an alignment shop for years. I would pull the trailing arms off buy new bearings and seals and he would rebuild them, I had them done 8 years ago, he charged me $100 I think plus bearings and seals another $40 or $50. The arms are not hard to take off, you might need a new trailing arm bushing`s while it`s off. Rubber bushing are about $30 and polyurethane are about $60. Be sure if you pull the trailing arms off mark your shims. (tape them together or something) they can be done on the car but you need that triangle press, maybe rent one with a bearing puller, if you want to do it yourself. saw a guy drive the spindle out with a sleeve and hammer once. Messing up the threads would make me nervous. I read an article somewhere where this guy cleaned the bearings and installed new seals got his end play set then with the spindle half shaft off and filled the bearing cavity 1/3 of the way with 90wt. like they do on big rigs, I guess it would work if you could get double liped grease- oil seals that wouldn`t leak. maybe? Shock mounts spray them penetrating oil a day or two before. These days you probably won`t need heat! For greasing hard to reach grease zirks find one of the grease needles used for the old square body chevy 4wd constant violisity front shaft the work good on hard to get zirks. I hope this helps.

 

Thank you so very much for replying !!!! Please bear with me? Someone who has actually does this is invaluable!

First, I'm going to have to get the half-shafts out. Seems to me there is no room to pull them - kinda like the radiator (groan). I'm planning to use a hillbilly porta-power - a hydraulic jack and a 4x4 with a big hole drilled into one end of it (to accept the ram). It seems I'm gonna have to spread the suspension, in order to make room to get the half shafts out?

I've been soaking the bleeder screws and the line nuts for the hoses for a couple days. I hope they co-operate... The calipers are good - they let loose of the brakes real well. Hope not to have to rebuild then - those 4-piston puppies are never fun. But maybe I will, anyhow. I already arranged to borrow a small air compressor.

There seems to be a thing for sale that fits over the threads on the spindles. The youtube video showed the guy having to beat the living he77 out of them. to get them out. Then he used a small bearing press clamp and a big puller to get the inner races off. I think I can do that. Then with the emery cloth, of course.

In the video he talked about a 'bearing kit' that has a shaft just like the spindle, but smaller were the races go. You use it to select the shims. Then there was another tool that let you use an impact gun to pull the inner race down. Finally, you just install the yoke. Do you know what that tool is?

Triangle press? You lost me, there?

I'd like to replace all the rubber stuff too - like the ones that go on the strut rods.

I like the idea of using 90wt. 75w150 type 5 should do it. And if you put a teaspoon or two of brake fluid in there I think the seals would last forever? I sure as hell don't want to have to do this again, when the normal bearing grease pack comes due!

If I could get this done and the a-arms with new bushings and ball joints before cold weather comes, I just might keep this vette. It sure is cool! But I would like to ditch that stump-puller rear end. A 3:26 would work, perfectly. The damn thing gets about 16 mpg! It should get 20, at least - especially when you consider how light it is. I'm not into drag racing. Seems differentials are for sale, rebuilt and with the 3:26 gearset, for $1000. Maybe less?

How hard is it to put the rubber body mounts on this car? It's gonna need them, too. 48 years old...

I'd be super glad to drive a new (mechanically) '74 vette! Maybe I should buy new trailing arms, with the bushing already in them? Have you seen those? Are they any good, or are they el-cheapo, chinese junk?

Hang with me, brother, please. I'm gonna need all the help I can get!

 

This all seems over wellming but it just takes time. If you take the bottom strut ends off, the trailing arms, at the shocks and remove the bolt for the main spring (after using a bottle jack to get the bolt out) lower the spring end down using a floor jack, but .carefull with the spring it wants to come downward and inward. Once you remove the spring bolt and strut, you will have a lot less pressure on the half shaft.(Youtube is great but they don`t always answer all your questions) Only thing holding the trailing arm now is the brake line, park brake cable, trailing arm bolt and sway bar (if equiped). place a block under the rotor.for support. It`s ready to pull out. After taking the cotter pin and nut the can be removed either prying both sides if not. use a puller like a harmonic blancer puller. check endplay first, (0.001 and 0.008 inch) if bearings are good you can use the same shims.the shim kit allows you to set end play without the spindle. (no pressing spindlein and out it`s a short cut). I have nothing on New trailing arms, for $1000 apiece i wouldnt think they are imported.they should say imported if they are. Rubber bushings are cheap and last 40 years, polyurerhane bushings are expensive and last? don`t need to be pressed in, your choice. Using ethenol fuel its hard to get 20mpg these days. Best I got was 16.5mpg with 350 engine and transmission 3.08 gears day driver., Body bushings (i ued poly) are time consuming. loosing all body mount bolts to the point where the nut almost falls off.disconnect the steering coupler the clutch linkage. shifter i`m not sure just watch it. Jack up one side (with bolts removed) and match the height of the bushing, reinstall .one side at a time, set back onthe frame and tourqe the bolts. Where I once worked they had a Press I used it a lot. I will send a few pictures of the trailing arms.

 

Pictures of trailing arm spindle puller It`s been used since 1963, expensive most mechanics built their own from the original. C-2 and C-3 tool

 

pictures and tools




Hope this helps..

 

If the rear wheel bearings don't need to be replaced, there is a tool that goes on the inside after taking the U-joint off of the spindle. Basically it allows you to inject wheel bearing grease using a grease gun between the inner and outer race of the bearing. Granted this only does the inner bearing but I've done it over the years and have over 70,000 miles and the bearings are still good.

If the calipers are original then you need to check to ensure that they are not leaking because they tended to rust internally which created pits that the seals on the pistons couldn't prevent the leaks. Fortunately there are sources now that supply stainless steel lined caliper housings. You can get them either fully loaded and ready to bolt on or just the bare calipers and you remove your existing Pistons, springs, etc and install in the new caliper housings.

If your car came from the rust belt and the parking brake was never used then I suspect that it is inoperative now because a couple of things happened. The cable has rusted and seized up in the sleeve and/or the parking brake hardware inside the rear rotor hat is all rusted up and stuck. Fortunately all of that hardware is available in stainless steel now.

If you remove the rear rotors by drilling out the rivets then be sure you mark the position because the rotors are machined after they're on the spindle. Failure to do this will cause excessive run out which causes the pistons in the caliper to pump air in.

The strut rod bushings can be fairly easily replaced using a large C-clamp and a large socket. A large machinist vise can substitute for the large C-clamp.

One of the hardest parts of replacing the body mounts is getting the bolts out because they will be severely rusted in. On my #4 body mount, the nut capture cage inside under the carpet was rusted to the point that it was coming unattached. It's not necessary for it to be there once the bolt has been installed but was just there to simplify installation at the factory.

I'm currently in the process of redoing the front suspension and am considering polyurethane control arm bushings if I can find the kind that can be lubricated. I redid a friend's '66 with dry polyurethane bushings and they squeaked unmercifully. But it was a big block with side exhaust so the only time you could hear the squeaking was when you pulled in the garage. 🤔

Good luck and don't hesitate to ask questions here.

 

If the rear wheel bearings don't need to be replaced, there is a tool that goes on the inside after taking the U-joint off of the spindle. Basically it allows you to inject wheel bearing grease using a grease gun between the inner and outer race of the bearing. Granted this only does the inner bearing but I've done it over the years and have over 70,000 miles and the bearings are still good.

If the calipers are original then you need to check to ensure that they are not leaking because they tended to rust internally which created pits that the seals on the pistons couldn't prevent the leaks. Fortunately there are sources now that supply stainless steel lined caliper housings. You can get them either fully loaded and ready to bolt on or just the bare calipers and you remove your existing Pistons, springs, etc and install in the new caliper housings.

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I took the left brakes apart. The calipers look old but they are in great shape. Someone has been in there before. They had to trash the short brake lines. They used straight lines (too small) and bent them up to fit. I ordered new ones. The pistons in the calipers, oddly, seem to have springs in them. The pistons are gloriously free! And they don't leak.

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If your car came from the rust belt and the parking brake was never used then I suspect that it is inoperative now because a couple of things happened. The cable has rusted and seized up in the sleeve and/or the parking brake hardware inside the rear rotor hat is all rusted up and stuck. Fortunately all of that hardware is available in stainless steel now.

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The emergency brake works, albeit poorly. I can see someone has put new cables in it. I will adjust it - that's all it needs

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If you remove the rear rotors by drilling out the rivets then be sure you mark the position because the rotors are machined after they're on the spindle. Failure to do this will cause excessive run out which causes the pistons in the caliper to pump air in.

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After a closer examination, armed with you kind help and too many youtube videos, I got some very good news. The larger cotter pin that holds the shims has obviously been removed then replaced! Which means the bushings have already been replaced, since I seriously doubt anyone paid to have a whole-car alignment done! One might assume the bearings were done, at the same time. There's no slop in the bearing.

When I get the u-joints for the half shafts I will remove them. I will re-assemble the rear brakes, but not bleed them. With the rods that set the camber off, I will simply grab the arms, and shake them. There is no problem with the 'tracking' of the rear suspension. I'm hopping to joyously leave the trailing arms alone.

I must say I'm impressed with GM's chintzy way of accomplishing independent rear suspension - no rear a-arms, etc. El-cheapo, to the max but it works, for a while. Long enough to get the car out of warranty...

When I got the car I used my "patented" bushing rejuvenater (1/3 gasoline, 1/3 brake fluid and 1/3 transmission fluid) to soak all the bushings, several times. The stuff works and all you need to do is load a squirt oil can with it. The a-arm bushings are, unfortunately, beyond hope. The front will need a rebuild.

I looked at the rotors. I thought all I had to do was to hit them with sledge hammer to remove them. They are good, so why bother? But I can't understand what you said? If air can get in, brake fluid can come out?

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The strut rod bushings can be fairly easily replaced using a large C-clamp and a large socket. A large machinist vise can substitute for the large C-clamp.

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If you're talking about the two rods that set the camber, they are bent like bows and I will replace them?

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One of the hardest parts of replacing the body mounts is getting the bolts out because they will be severely rusted in. On my #4 body mount, the nut capture cage inside under the carpet was rusted to the point that it was coming unattached. It's not necessary for it to be there once the bolt has been installed but was just there to simplify installation at the factory.

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I'm not doing the body mounts right now. My nightmare is those mounts are IN FIBERGLASS! I dream of them ripping the fiberglass out, it I mess with them.

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I'm currently in the process of redoing the front suspension and am considering polyurethane control arm bushings if I can find the kind that can be lubricated. I redid a friend's '66 with dry polyurethane bushings and they squeaked unmercifully. But it was a big block with side exhaust so the only time you could hear the squeaking was when you pulled in the garage. 🤔

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Nobody mentions the downside of polyurethane bushings, which is noise. The rubber bushings capture that road noise, eliminating it. The hard bushings do not. Are you racing your vette? If not, my humble opinion is to use the stock bushings.

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Good luck and don't hesitate to ask questions here.

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I thank you, profusely, once again, for taking your time to help me out. You, sir, are a gentleman, and a scholar!

The 4-speed trans has been rebuilt. A lot of money has already been spent on this car. Complete with a GM crate motor for a pickup truck that runs great, on regular fuel. It has about 13,000 miles on it. One might assume that, with a trans rebuild, the mount was replaced. ASSUME: the little word that makes an *** out of you, and me! Next time I'm under the car I will check it - lol

I paid $650 for a classic holy carb, for looks, mostly, and because the old cartrer abf (now called something else) had died, of old age.. Now i find it does not run well when the PCV valve is connected. I suppose I can get with holy and buy some pilot jets to fix that. It never ends, it seems...

I keep waffling between keeping this car, and selling it. My wife just loves it! But I, being more inclined to judge by practical factors, as opposed to aesthetic ones (or male), see things differently. Practically speaking, the car is useless - good, only for a cruise, down the boulevard - no trunk, not even a glove box; able to carry nothing larger than a handkerchief... and the mother of all, white elephants, to boot; the very definition, of a money pit.

Every time I get into something with this car - the radiator, for example, it blows up in my face, becoming a nightmare. And the worst part is I hear of these cars selling for $6,000! Half of what I paid, originally...

Where are you? Maybe I can buy you a beer? (provided you drink, which I don't) I'm in Terre Haute, Indiana - where I-70 crosses the Indiana-Illinois line.

 

Dear Shark. Good points, I had a 70 vette, (in 75) replaced the bearing and seals around 100k and tapped a grease zirk in the top middle of the hub casting, sold the car at 160k.(no problems) GM requires, 30 to35k teardown and repack, like front wheels, Yes I do remember that grease tool, The 90wt oil might work depending on the seal's oil ability. Now what I don`t know is if you can get sealed ball bearings (completely sealed both sides to fit the hub and spindle) no greasing but still has to be shimed, I would think I have not researched that.150k or better, I`m good with that.like C-4`s. My 77 has 92k on the brakes, original calipers, yes they did leak, and yes they are pitted. Put kits in all 4 calipers, no more leaks. But I can only use brake pads less than 60 percent. I`m Using the part of the bore that is not pitted. When I replace the front brake pads, (in a few years) I will replace the front calipers and go drilled and slotted rotors, I did replace the master cylinder a few years ago, it was also leaking and pitted. Body mount bolts, penetrating oil and breaker bars, I`m sure your old 4 letter words will return! There are some body replacement brackets available at some of the corvette part places online, if needed, take your time and wear gloves, I think I broke 2 bolts. Lifted one side of the body about 6 in at a time. Enough room to get your hands in there with bushings and shims. The strut Rods I replaced both because they would not adjust enough. Used adjustable rods with heim joint ends. Haven`t had trouble with the poly bushings, greased them on assembly, no sqeeks yet.They are easy to install and don`t squish like rubber, If a person likes to tinker on corvettes then a C-3 is for you!

 

I forgot to mention that nothing on a C3 Corvette can tolerate gasoline with ethanol in it. While it's generally more expensive, you can usually find alcohol-free gas in most areas.

I quit using ethanol gasoline in my small engines like weed eaters and power washers because I got tired of replacing the carburetors every 2 or 3 years. Some even said that they would use E10 but I haven't had the problem since I quit using it.