I am looking to buy a '68 Vette it has a stock bore and stock stroke 427 that originally came out in a '68. It has correct manifolds and intake, a freshly rebuilt muncie 4 speed and Corvette Rear. All the interior is brand new, new chrome, new emblems, and all the car needs is paint. The current owner was told it was a factory Big Block car what can determine if it is a true Big Block 4 speed car? He was told by someone at a show that the Big block cars had a rear sway bar and the tach went to a higher RPM is this true, and what determines the truth about the car. Is there a cowl tag somewhere? ANY HELP WOULD GREATLY BE APPRECIATED.

 

The VIN will tell which motor was factory installed but without digging into some reference books I can't tell you what numbers to look for.

 

There is a build sheet that can be found on top of the fuel tank. Mine was gone, but your's may still be there.

 

Thanks for all the replies hopefully the build sheet will still be there the car has been stored for around 5-7 years, any idea what the car is worth if it is a factory big block? Thanks Again

 

If you are trying to determine if this is an original block for that car, check the suffix code located on the stamp pad on the front of the passenger side head. It will probably be IL which was used for single carbed 427's. IQ was for auto 427's. IU, IM, IO, IR were for tri carb models. This letter code will be before numbers that, if this is an original block, will match your vin.
I must sound like I work for this guy... I don't... but I should get a kick back for pimping his books. If you want to document any Chevy, look into 'Chevrolet by the Numbers' by Alan Colvin. The books are broken down into year groupings... '65-69, '70-75 and have everything anyone would need to determine if the numbers match the model. I don't have that book (65-69), but it would have the correct block casting for a vette of that year.
Best of luck,
Wedge
[align=left][/align]

 

Thanks for the help I am not necessarily trying to find if the motor is the original out of the car just wondering if teh car is a factory big block? What would be a guesstimate of what the car is worth factory big block, and if not a factory big block? THanks Again

 

Sorry... don't know if I can answer that. On '70 and later you could tell by the vin #. It had a letter identifier in the vin that would tell if it originally came as a big or small block. Maybe get online and ask the guys at ProTeam corvettes. Price depends on a lot of factors. Ragtops usually bring more than T-tops, and condition is always a factor. Maybe check Hemmingsto get an average price. A '68 non matching in my area will go in the mid 20's if it is in good shape. Excellent shape... more. As to the tach question, higher rev limits usually corresponded with non- air conditionedsmall blocks. If I remember correctly,I had a68 tri-power 4 spd with no air thatredlined at 5500, but the '69 350/350 no air was about 6500. My current '73 454 w/air is redlined at 55.
Hope this helps.

 

The car is not in show quality or nothing all it needs is paint, the body is practically ready to spray, and the interior is new and emblems and chrome is new, rebuilt 4 speed, fresh 427, and the rear has been gone through, matchingmanifolds and intake, non ps and manula brakes, so the build sheet on top of the gas tank will tell the story? Thanks for the reply.

 

Since I never saw my own buuild sheet, I'm not sure of all the info it provides.
I believe, color, accessories, engine, and tranny. Not sure what all else.

 

In addition to what starship said, I believe the build sheet will tell you all the options on the car, rear end ratio, etc. Original, unmolestedfactory big blocks are going for a lot, especially roadsters. Even '68s with all of their known pimples.