Hi all!

I have a 427 (L-88 big block hood) with fuel boiling in the bowls and vapor lock when coming off of red lights. I installed a 1/2 inch spacer to counter the heat. However, since installation I have zero clearance between the top of the air cleaner and the hood. I began this voyage of frustration with a dropped base and a 3 inch element. Unfortunately it did not work. I just tried to keep the drop base and use a 2 inch element and have found that I cannot seat the top due to the bowl vents being to long. Can I trim or change these vents to allow clearance? I was hoping that if a 2 inch element worked I would be able to change to a K&N top and side to make up for the hight.

Thanks for reading and any advice would be really appreciated.

-Ross

 

I went with an Edelbrock pro-flo with the washable element. Works great and sits about 1/4" above the highest point of the carb. I want to go with the "bowtie" K&N setup, but my wife won't let me spend the money. Also considering a new intake manifold to get rid of my spacer. Mine is for Qjet-Holley conversion...

bill.

 

Thanks for the info. I originally had the pro-flow and with the spacer it would not let me close the hood. I also have a Weiand 7544 intake. Im not sure if they make one with less hight? Which intake were you looking at?

 

Im running a professional products air gap intake without spacer and with a drop base 3 inch element and an L88 hood and have about 1/2 inch clearance from wing nut to hood.

 

I don't see why you couldn't trim the vent tubes, I did it on my off-road Jeep that is running a 350 and an Edlebrock package. I used a mini tube cutter... no metal shavings.

On my 73 454 I used a drop base, K&N Flow through top (greatest invention ever, BTW) and 3" element with my Edlebrock Performer. Instead of the 1/2" spacer I used a stainless heat shield with cork insulation on the manifold side from Summit Racing. The spacer only helps isolate the heat transferrence from the manifold to the carb, but the shield helps keep it away from the bowls. It keeps the heat down at idle... like lights... but the carb does heat up when I shut it down and no air is moving. To fit it all in with the hood closed, I used a 73 stock style Vanacors hood with a 2" rise in the tunnel. Its still close though...

Oh, and ditch the wing nut... 3/8" more height. I used a 3-1/2" pan head machine screw into the carb...
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Do you have a pic of your engine with the shield?

 

Yeah Ross,
I'll get you some shots tomorrow. I don't remember... which carb are you using? Stock Q-Jet or has it been changed? I looked at Summit and could only find a shield for Holley 4010/4150/4160 carbs. I'll check Jeggs tomorrow.
Later
Wedge
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For some reason I cant edit the last post... forget Summit... it was Jeggs. Check these out, there has to be one here that will work for you.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Mr.+Gasket/743789/10002/-1/10289

Hope this helps, I'll post those pictures tomorrow.


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Hi,

Thanks for the follow up. That is the exact shield that I installed under my hollley 4150 dp which elevated the top end 1/2 inch which started this voyage. I am hoping that cutting the vents may help with a 2 inch elementand the drop base will help.

Loosing the wing nut is also a great idea. I will let you know.

 

On the one I used, I just single stacked the short spacers and dumped the huge block style spacers. Bottom line simply is that there is not that much room under there. I almost considered a different single plane style manifold at one point. Seems as though that hood should give you a little more room than stock though...
Good luck
Wedge

I'll send pictures later if you still need them, just PM me.
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