I need to replace my trailing arm bushings. I have the kit but I don't know how to get the rear TA bolts out. I took apart all the rear wheel components so that the TA is loose but now the bolt won't come out. Looks all rusted up. How can I get it out. Any tips would be great. I am soaking it with WD40 but doubt that will work. I pounded the hell out of it and it didn't budge. I can't get to the rear bolt with any kind of force to break it loose. Can you cut the bolt??
Seems like there is always just one bolt that keeps you from completing a job.
B

 

Sixwords,.....
Saws All, Drift Punch, and Hammer.

That's what it took to get mine out.

 

Same here on mine plus a friend's '66. Just cut the outside end off and drive it out.

Forgot to mention that you'll need the installation tool to properly compress the bushing and flare the end.

 

A Sawzall is the best tool, that foward bolt rusts so much over the years that no wrench will fit it. I used a hack saw taped on one end and it took me a long time to cut thru it even after I pulled out a few shims.
Are you going to change the bearings after you get it loose? PG.

 

You guys who replied on page one of this topic know best, but was just wondering if heating it real well would allow you to get it to turn. From my experience w/ rusted nuts and bolts, nothing works like Brake Fluid as far as penetrating oilsgo. I came to that conclusion over theyears of hunting for parts for my '62 Ford pick-up out here in Texas. Usually "heat" will over-come the rust on nuts and bolts. However, ultimately, it comes down to whatever is the quickest and most convienient method for you. Some "Home Depot" stores rent electrical tools like "sawsalls." I rented a Hammer Drill there one time when mine went out in the middle of drilling a series of holes in concrete and had no time to shop around for the best deal. Good Luck w/ your project.
In the past, my mentioning the use of brake fluid for rusted nuts and bolts has had stones thrown at it as everyone has their own method and seem to stick w/ what they feel is best. Years back,I was in need of a distributor f/ my '62 223 ci 6 cylinder engine in my pick-up. The original was just plain worn out in afew different areas. The points would open but wouldn't close all the time. The plate would wobble around so bad that it was after awhile "all the time" inconsistent. After going to three older-car-junk-yards, I went to Alex's place where you find only things like old icecreamtrucks and school buses from the early '50s, etc. Nothing is expensive and Alex lives there in the Office building. I found a perfect distributor in an old bare block that had nothing left in it at all and had a big hole in the side where a rod may have come through. The distributor was left in it possibly due to the fact that no one could get it out, as it was really just like new, although the metal tag on it said that it was a '61 model. Alex wanted $20 for it and I went back three different days, applying different types of penetrating fluiid and giving it acouple days to work each time. No luck. I ran it past "Chicken Man" ( Donnell Watkins), a guy who had formal automotive training years back and who knew some old tricks of the trade. He told me that if brake fluid didn't take it out, nothing would. I went the next day. When Alex saw me, he said that if I get it out, I could have it for $15. since I came back so many times. I let the brake fluid work for two days and when I went back, the distributor came right out. I couldn't believe it. Ofcourse I went to Chicken Man's house w/ a 12 pack of beer for him, as beer was always his first choice no matter what the situation. Tough situationsmade for a man to sit down, have a drink and fully contemplate what route to take prior to any action taken. A very good reason to drink afew. LOL This was Chicken Man's number one rule. This sold me on the brake fluid use for rusted nuts, bolts, etc. And still, there's nothing like a Saturday morning hunting around in the older-car-junk-yards just looking at old interesting vehicles from years and years past beating down bushes to get to them at times and talking w/ the old characters who have these places, and in afew cases, live there too. You don't find these places in the urban areas, or even suburban for that matter, but just alittle further out...

 

I tend to steer away from using heat when I can. A lot of times you'll have residual oils, greese and road tar, from who knows where, and Vettes are very fire friendly. LOL
Got to watch out for stray embers. []
Brake fluid? You bet cha. Great for loosening those stuborn parts.

 

Never tried brake fluid. I'll try it next time, probably on body mount bolts. I've had good luck w/ a product called Kroil.

 

Yes C3, when using heat, fire safety is paramount. You are right bringing that to peepz attention. But if you're familiar w/ using heat, it works when nothing else will.

 

Yup, the heat expands an item and then when it cools down, the rusty bond is broken. I prefer to let things cool down before working on them. Besides, the heat expanded part sometimes has a tighter grip. Let it cool and try again.

 

My brother "swears" by Kroil.