79 body with a new crate motor. SBC 350/400 nothing too big, and mortor runs real smoothe.

new radiator, new hoses, new cap (dunno lbs), fresh prestone 50/50, water wetter, seven blade fan, electric fan kicks on at 190.
both heater hoses are hot and the same temp, no leaks, no weird noises, 4 degree adv on timing, AC 45RT plugs, carb is edelbrock 600 at factory specs. Maybe too lean?

Radiator is full ! belts are tight, nothing slipping as far as I can tell

Any ideas on cooling both of us down will be appreciated.

 

Check the thermostat in a pan of boiling water to see if it opens fully. New ones have been known to be bad.

 

How hot is hot? I took mine out this week and it runs around 210

 

IMHO, if ya can keep 'er under 220 that's fine. I don't see aprob with 190 at all.

 

gigabyte,

Try punching out the thermostat thus giving a greater but restricted flow. This works good during the summer. You must replace for winter use. In order to get heat. If that doesn't work. Tell me if you have a belt driven fan or a electric.

 

One prob with that,....
The water needs to remain in the block long enough to pick up the heat. The water heat may drop off, but the engine it's self will get hotter. I don't suggest that you open up to free flow. [sm=nono.gif]

 

Hi gigabite, here's a few more things to check to cool down your "Hot Vette"
Do you have a "Spoiler" on the bottom of your car? That helps a let to direct the air up into the radiator.
Have you checked to see that all the seals around the radiator are there? They help to direct the air thru the radiator rather than let it pass by the sides and top.
You said you have a new radiator but did you change and install the proper cap?
How's the fan "Clutch"? A quick test is to let the engine idle and turn it off. A good clutch will stop the fan from spining in 1 or 2 seconds.
Timing: You didn't say what kind of distributor you have but 8* to 12* initial ( with vacuum can disconnect and pluged )might help.
At idle with the can connected you should have about 24* to 28* ( that's with a vacuum can that gives you 16*, not sure what yours is or does).
Than you should have a total of 48* with a max of 52* at 2800 RPM to 3000 RPM.
You can also change to a colder plug like AC 44 RT. I'm not sure about this one since I'm not sure how much heat one heat range plug adds, but maybe someone else will chime in.
One last thing, you don't have to drill out the thermostat, you can get a "Mr Gasket" #4364 at the auto parts store, they come with holes in them and if they fail they do so in the open position so some water passes thru them and the block dosen't crack.
Hope some of this is some help to you, PG.

 

The heat range on a spark plug relates to the temperature the tip runs at. A hotter plug means the tip will run hotter cuz the heat path to the block is longer than on a colder plug. I always run a hotter plug in mine to keep it clean since most of my driving is in the city.

I don't think the plug temp will have any effect on engine temp.

 

Hi 73shark, I never figired that the heat range of a plug had much difference on the engine temp since I've tried higher and lower and never saw any change on the temp guage.
The way I heard it, if you have a low compression, low HP motor ( as I do ) than a hotter plug would burn off some of the carbon build up, is that correct? PG.

 

When does it over heat, while shes running, in traffic, at idle, with the acon or all of the above??