I misunderstood you re: plug heat range vs engine operating temp.

That's why I went to a hotter plug cuz most of my driving is in town and it just burns cleaner.

 

Hey everyone thanks for answering up with all the info. I've been away for a few days and unable to answer all of you. The distrib is a Wysco. A friend came over and checked the timing and told me that the hole in the intake (edelbrock) is too big and most 3rd party intakes have a hole that is too big for the distributor. This one lets the distrib wobble some and needs a shim. (Jegs and Summit both carry a distributor shim kit) With a hole too big the hold down cannot be tightened enough to stop the wobble which in turn causes the timing to change. In this case it went from 8 BTC to 4 ATC which probably causes the overheating. It runs like a gazelle until it gets hot (220 plus) and then just about refuses to run at a stop light. It chugged about a half mile to the house.

The fan clutch is OK and she has the stock spoiler on the front. I did order a "high flow" 160 thermostat from summit to see if that helps.

thanks again guys for lending a thought

 

Be sure to let us know how it turns out w/ the new 'stat.

 

What kind of radiator do you have? I had a brand new 4 row brass and copper radiator that simply did not do the job. I switched over to an aluminum radiator (under $200.00 if you shop around) and my overheating issues were resolved.

[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

Hey DV8, where'd you get an aluminum radiator for $200, I may need one once I get my stroker transplanted.

 

Hi,

How close is you fuel line to the block or exhaust? It may be to close and getting hot causing vapor lock. Mine is also boiling the fuel in the bowls causing pressure spikes in the jetting. When you come off of a red light does it lurch forward and back like it is not getting enough fuel or bogging?

My 2 cents, hope it helps!

-Ross

 

I got mine from Southwest Speed
http://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_menu&cat=Cooling%20System⊂=Radiato !rs&ssub=!Southwest%20Speed%20Radiators&ss sub=Chevy

If I remember right I got the 19" x 29" unit. It is not a direct fit - I had to modify the top radiator hold down slightly. I can get the info and some pics if you need them.

[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

Thanks for the info DV8, I'm running a new four row copper right now but may have to upgrade to aluminum, I'll have to see how it works once I change to the 383.

 

I understand that you need to use an anti-freeze condusive to use with an aluminum rad. It deals with corrosion issues. Electrolysis, etc.

 

A new high flow 160 degree thermo really helped with the cool down. The radiator is a new stock radiator I got from auto zone. The distro shims helped alot also. no more wobble. The fuel line is runnig about three inches from the block, up the front next to the h2o pump. I am concerned about heat there and bought a tube of thermo-flex from "cool-it", which should help. I am also thinking of putting in a alum radiator sometime.

Quote from my wife, "you are crazy putting all this money in an old car, you should have bought a new one." What do you think guys; should I go for it?