Does anyone know how to wire up a 75 vette electronic tach. Its a 3 wire male connection and I do not want to burn out the board. PETE

 

WHAT COLOR WIRES YOU GOT THERE .... I NO GREEN IS TACK,,,GOES TO THE DISTRIBUTOR....BLACK GOES TO GROUND...... WHITE IS 12 VOLTS,

 

I have no wires just the 3 prongs coming out of the back of the tach. PETE

 

ON THE BACK OF THE GAGE WERE THE 3 PRONGS COME OUT ,ABOVE THE TOP OF THE PRONGS ARE THER LETTERS SAYING ...TACH....+ POS..- NEG[8D]

 

NO LETTERING ON BACK OF TACH.

PETE

 

ILL DO SOME RESERCH FOR YA.. STAY TUNED.

 

The following instructions were written by Mike Yunes AKA "redbarron76"
Thanks Mike

Intellitronix Gauge Installation in a 1976 Corvette
Here is the breakdown of the directions that I made for installation of the Intellitronix gauges. This was based on the 1975 electrical schematic and the directions directly from intellitronix and over the phone. I don't know if you have their directions, so I'll summarize.
First: Disconnect battery.
Second: Remove all gauges and bezels. You will need to customize the bezels somewhat to get them to seat properly. I removed it all and brought it inside to my workbench.
Third:
1. Sending units.
a. Temperature senders- you need two of the ones from intellitronix. They come with the kit. The gauges include a coolant temperature and an oil temperature. It does not have a clock. These are easy replacements if you can get the old one out. I am putting the second one on my intake.
b. Speedometer sender- If you have a cable driven speedo like mine, replace the sender with one of theirs. It converts the rotation into electrical impulse. ? What to do with the cable. I am removing mine, since I do not plan to return it to stock.
c. Run temperature safe wire through the firewall to these senders.
2. Bezel mounting
a. The smoke gray plexiglass that they give you almost perfectly fits directly over the gauges. It doesn't replace the plastic bezel lenses that are already there. You may have to file an edge or two down to fit. I drilled a couple of holes to match holes in the bezels and attached the plexiglass with small bolts. Remember to use the gaskets that came with the gauges originally. Get the board mounted the same way, using small bolts. You can get away with three bolts on each of the speedo and tach. 4 for the center cluster.
b. After the bezels are back together with the circuit boards, go and label the following wires and prep them for joining. I crimp fastened mine, but you can do it however you want.
3. Wire connections
a. All black wires go to ground. You can use any ground. I used a similar ground, the one from the original tach connector.
b. All red wires go to ignition on power. I used the tach ignition power wire (pink)
c. The purple one. This one was tough to figure out. The directions say to connect it to the parking light circuit, not the panel light circuit. After looking at the circuit board, it appears to be the wire for dimming. Therefore, I connected it to one of the gray wires which was used to light up the original speedometer bezel. This wire originally had a bulb on the end and grounded by mounting the bulb in the rear of the cluster. Since we don't need these bulbs any more, I removed them all and used one for each of the purple wires. The rest I insulated and hid behind the dash.
d. Speedometer-
1. White wires- connect both to a momentary switch. I mounted a small pushbutton that is located under the driver dash next to the bulb. This is how you calibrate the speedometer and how you can get 0-60 mph and 1/4 mile times.
2. The gray wire goes to the sending unit you mounted.
3. The yellow wire goes to the left turn signal wire (the light blue wire in the car) It is the only light blue one that came detached from the left of the speedometer.
4. The brown wire goes to the ebrake. This is the tan wire, circuit #33 in the diagrams.
e. Tachometer
1. The green wire goes to the original tach wire which is brown.
2. The orange wire goes to the right turn signal wire in the car which is dark blue.
The only dark blue one that came out from the back of the tach.
3. The blue wire is the high beam wire which goes to the light green wire which was attached to the back of the tach. (circuit 11)
f. Center cluster
1. Blue wire is the coolant temp wire. Connect this to the new temperature sending unit.
2. White wire is the oil temp wire. Connect to the sender you replaced with theirs.
3. Orange is the oil pressure wire. This directly connects to the original oil wire which is dark blue.
4. Yellow wire is the fuel tank sender. It connects to the tan wire (circuit 30) which is the original tank sender.
NOTES:
1. As you are disconnecting everything, take photos and label each cluster of wires as you disconnect them. It is very tough with the speedo and tach as they tend to all come out at once, but try. I did not take photos which made it much more difficult, but I did label everything with masking tape labels.
2. Take your time. Just identifying the correct wires took me a couple of days. If the directions were better, it would have been much easier.
3. These instructions worked for me and my car which is a 76. I do not guarantee that yours will be the same. Check with your electrical diagram specifically for your car if the wires are not the same.
Good luck, I hope that this helps and gets you through the project quicker than it took me. I hope that you enjoy the digital gauges as much as I do. Mike

 

WHAT WERE THE COLORS OF THE ORIGIONAL WIRES COMEING OUT OF THE BACK OF THE TACH AND WHAT PRONGS WERE THEY ON?
PETE

 

i looked all over i cant find nothing, go to your parts store and buy one of these books thay will have the wireing diagram.for your tach,,

sorry i could not help any more

click on the link

http://www.haynes.co.uk/webapp/wcs/s...3799&langId=-1

 

I BOUGHT THE WIREING DIAGRAM BOOK AND IT HASE EVERYTHING IN IT BUT THE TACH.
PETE