Trailing Arm Bearings
 

Merry X-Mas and Happy New Year Guys and Gals
Well, I Tore down the ass end, all calipers and steering control valve with the piston. New Steering valve and piston are back in place. Removed both trailing arms ( they kicked and screamed the whole way, but I won and with no damage )removed strut rods and replaced bushings, repainted and replaced. Removedaxle shafts, U joints are toast, toooo much rust to even try to press out u joints, gave up and ordered new axle shafts, cheap enough and a x-mas present to myself. Okay, I am going to replace trailing arm bushings and alignment shims, ( This is what started this whole thing ), thats ok cause it all needs to be done. I don't want to reinstall with out replacing the bearings which I believe to be original. Question is, Is this a tough job to do? and would I need special tools? I have changed the E-Brake on my 79 years ago. and that was a chore, working through those small holes. I would like to do this myself, for self satisfaction, you know what I mean( its a guy thing). The rearend seals are new and also a new mono spring. The bearings don't feel bad at all but I don't want to have to touch the rear again. Any Help or Tips would be appreciated. Thanks and Happy New Year to all your families. Batesy

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RE: Trailing Arm Bearings
 

[:o]oops

RE: Trailing Arm Bearings
 

Hi and Happy New Year to you to! I replaced the same parts that you did, but to replace the bearings takes a few special tools so I just took the trailing arms to the local Corvette repair shop. PG.

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I cheated,.....[&o]. I got complete arm assemblies from Ecklers. Right up to the rotors. :)
Hat's off to ya there batesy. Sounds like a very complete job you're doin'. You're gonna Love it when you're done. Trust me....;)

( ya gonna do the front too? )

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PG, Thats exactly what I was thinking as well, But before I did that, I thought I get some advise or input from someone that has gone through it.I had a feeling that it wouldn't be a cake walk and the need for special tools.I would like to sandblast and paint the arm before the new bearings are installed. I will inquire about that.
Hey C3, I did think about the rebuild departmentfrom Ecklers, Zip is alittle cheaper I found. new ones are just too dam much.Trying to save some cash for other items as needed as I pick at it, cause you always run into something else as you guys are aware of, anyways thanks for the input, It will help with my decision,Batesy

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C3, I have already replaced the tie rods and ball joints and bearings in the front last summer. The A arm bushings looked ok , but will change eventually, Can the bushings be changed as is without taking the A arms off? Next year will probably be the carpet and interior items. Got to do the mechanics first. The interior is not that bad really, but to have it all new would be great, Thanks again Batesy

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To get the bushings, where the A-frame ataches to the front cross member, you won't have to fight it if you just remove the parts for rebuild. Get the A-frames out where you can handle them, and do ball joints, and bearingstoo. You can also clean and paint parts if you want. Heck, you could have all the parts coated.
Just thinkin' "out loud" here.....:D

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I rebuilt my trailing arms and it was pretty easy with the right tools. Pretty much imposssible I think without them. I did mine about 8 mo. ago and there was a guy on ebay selling a complete tool kit to replace the bearings. It came with the tool to take out the axle, remove the bearings,tool to set up the end play,tool to install bearing and tool to install axle back in. It even came with a dial indicator. And you do need a tool for every step! I paid $235.00 for the kit. I like toys so I figured I'd go for it. Who know if I survive this resto I might do it again. Those damn Corvette engineers even make you buy a special tool to put the bushing in the trailing arm. I made one from a block of steel I had laying around. If your local in N.J. I can help you out.

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If you replace the trailing arm bushings w/ polyurethane ones, then you won't need a special tool. If you put stock rubber ones back in, then you'll either need the tool or make one in order to compress the bushing and swage the center tube. I did like Rich G. did and made my own.

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Looks like you have the hard part-removal-finished. I helped a friend replace his(since I knew I was going to buy the car). He had real good luck with Willcox in Jeffersonville, In. After shopping aroundhe got everything new for a reallow price fully assembled. Good Luck

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Sometimes in the long run, it is cheaper to buy all new packages. It all depends whether your time is worth more than the price of the package of parts. If you do bring the items to a shop, you better find a really good shop as there isn't too much you can do if you get a screwed up job done with the exception of sueing or going to jail for beating the guy half to death, whichare botha can of worms. Compare the cost of; 1.tools, timeand parts, 2.labor and parts-providing you find a shop that you can 100% trust, which is hard, and 3.the complete parts package.
I feel that the choice will depend on the person who does the job/owns the car. I'd go for buying the tools and buying the parts needed as I KNOW I can trust MY work and I'd hate to pay for the job twice and have it in for some jerk who screwed me on the work.
All in all, go for what you can afford and come out with a good job where it will be done right the first time, and a route that you'll feel good with and about.
I have the same job just ahead now that the Holidays are over. I will say that I'm glad to see this post for that reason. Good Luck with the work. Always glad as hell to see someone who's "turning the wrenches" and making his ride a "part of him."

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Thanks for the kind words Texas, I am weighing out my options now. I took both arms to a corvette repair shop just down the street from me, which by the way are very good at what they do, never worked on my car but know people whose car they have work on and they have been in business for many years. He can rebuild them for 150 each,just bearins and seals, which I thought was cheap. He's got all the right tools as well. I know it's a can of worms, new dust shields, studs, spacers. but hopefully not the spindle.
I'll look up that site that T Top spoke of and make a decision. The owner of the shop also checked them and said that they felt allright. And doing them on the car was not an issue, but then I would lose my wheels on some nice days until it is done. Lots of coins to flip.

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Talked to another corvette mechanic who I had work ed with before , he told me $250 to rebuild, but gave me this web site in PA. http://www.bairs.com/suspension.asp$325 for the whole thing with new rotor or $275 with your existing rotor and they will turndown the runoff. Not a bad price, but of cousre there is shipping involved. Just good info on another web site to put in your favorites.
I am leaning towards the $275 cause my rotors are in real good shape, and it will come back all bead blasted and powder coated. Well worth any aggrevation in my garage:Dmore time to go snowmobiling, just have to do a side job or OT to make up for it http://www.bairs.com/page3.asp

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Now Scott, don't be workin' any side jobs, you know the Hall frowns on it and it takes work away from our contractors. I agree with you on farming out the rear bearing job for the prices you were quoted. I did all new rear end bushings, joints ect. but felt that the spindle bearings were in good shape, so those are the only thing I didn't replace. I could not have done it anyway without buying the right tools.

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Here's another company that's been around a long time: http://http://www.vansteel.com/index...;SubGroup=1810

Interesting that they now have a coilover rear suspension setup. :)

Good luck on your rebuild.

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Hey Buckshot, The old sayinggoes.............what the hall don't know, won't hurt them. Its all about the mighty dollar

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I have folks askin' me to do side work but I normally pass on it, I've been fortunate here and haven't been laid off for four years, I average 45 hours/week, it's enough for me along with keepin' up the maintenance on my mothers house, my own house and my rental house, oh, I almost forgot, I teach part time at the apprenticeship. I sometimes don't have time to play with the Vette. But I understand your point about bringin' in a little extra fun money. Good luck with the rear end re-build.

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So I just got my rebuilt trailing arms back from Bairs corvette. I can't wait to install these babies, they did a great job rebuilding them, like new. I have already installed new half shafts,front calipers with new brake lines, steering control valve and cylinder. I have a few more little items on my list to clean up before spring arrives, which is coming quick. Looking forward to wash and wax her before the first ride of the year Here are some pictures , will post more wheI install the rest of the parts, Batesy

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RE: Trailing Arm Bearings
 

Hi ,
following this topic.
last time that I jacked my car at mech ( for a complete underside check before ordering the needed parts) we found that all the 4 wheels had a certain smallplay at the bearings ( by shaking each wheel). My mech sayed that he would just tighten and fix the wheel bearings. But today I have found something in the Corvette owner's manual ( i don't have still the service one). please read the last 5 lines in the pic.
So what to do? tighten the wheel bearingsor not?
thanks

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RE: Trailing Arm Bearings
 

Aldo, from my experiance, no wheel bearings should not be overtightened. there should be little play or slop! tighten nut and then back off a touch and install cotter pin. If you tighten too much it will cause prematuer bearing failure.
If your mech. tells you he can tighten and all will be good, I think he's wrong, thats a sign that the bearings might need replacing. If I'm wrong someone on this forum please correct me!

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You're right on. Also should rotate the wheel as you tighten and then back off to the first castellation on the nut and put in cotter key. I once read a procedure that used a torque wrench but don't remember what the torque was. :eek: Another reason to own a Service Manual. :)

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The front wheel bearings can be tightened with the nut but not the rear. The rear bearings are also tapered but have a spacer in between the two that has to be setup with a dial indicator and is set by adding or removing shims in between the 2 bearings. The nut just locks every thing together. There is only a few thousands of an inch play. I would have to look it up to see exactlly but you just about feel it. If you could move the wheel in and out its time to redo the bearings.

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Thanks,
I'll leave my wheel bearings as they are...
the play is very small and the same for the 4 wheels, and only if I shake the wheel left-right/up-down, not if I push-pull in -out the wheel. Also I hear no noise coming from bearingswhile rotating by hand the wheels , but I have to check this thingbetter.

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You might go ahead and re-pack the bearings with grease and adjust out the play. It wouldn't hurt. Preventitive maintenance goes a long way in holding off future problems. ;)

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All back together, Can't wait to see how she rides now. I'll have to start a new list of things to fix or upgrade for next year.

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RE: Trailing Arm Bearings
 

Hey Batesy80,

I notice in the picture of your trailing arm that the spring height adjustment bolt does not sit squarely in the cup. My car does this too, but on the right side not the left. I also notice on my car that the right rear wheel sticks out about 1/2 inch further from the body than the left does, and also that the rear monospring is closer to the inner left wheel than it is to the inner right wheel. What are your thoughts on these alignment observations?
By the way, your trailing arms look great - and thanks for the link to Bairs!

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Isn't that because it's up in the air? When you lower it down and the spring straightens out, the bolt will go perpendicular and seat it the cup. At least that's the way mine works.

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That came out terrific! Two thumbs up on a job well done. You'll really be happy with the way she handles when you go for your first ride. I think that part of the fun is knowing that you repaired your Vette yourself. Thanks for the update and have a great day, PG.

RE: Trailing Arm Bearings
 

DV , Shark is right . It looks crooked cause the the arms are hanging free, they will straighten out when I lower it down and of course sitting on the suspension. You should have your alignment checked out , all four wheels. That's what brought my project on, they couldn't align the rear, due to the shims being so rotted they couldn't free them up to make a change. The only other thing I can think of is maybe your frame in bent?? Which I hope not. When I get my alignment I'll pick the guys brain on that one and let you know. Thanks for the good feedback guys, It 's a good sense of accomplishment when you work on your on toys, and you know you won't cut corners.

RE: Trailing Arm Bearings
 

DV, get a tape measure first and make sure your mono leaf is in the center of the rear. you might just have to loosen it up and shift it over a bit.

RE: Trailing Arm Bearings
 

Rich,
I've also seen leaf spring set-ups get cocked. And loosening all the bolts and straightening things back up is what to do. The first time I saw a twisted up leaf assy. I was worried as it was a 4 wheel drive Toyota that I bought cheep, a farm truck. The young guy who did my alignment, who messed w/ off-road 4 wheel drive trucks, acted like it was nothing. He told me to do just what you said, Rich, take it all loose and straighten it up again. I did and it was just fine. A shocking damn thing to see if it's your first time and it's your ride. LOL It comes from regular vibration and a little beating on occasion. LOL I suppose some good either self-lockers or good lock washers would be in order if that's the case, and regular checking.