I'm finishing up the work on putting in my new torque converter and I'm right about to re-connect the drive shaft and re-hang the exhaust, but the yoke on the transmission doesn't seem to want to pull back to where it was. Is it just really tough to do or is there some trick I'm missing? Oh and on a fun side note. One of the splicers on the drive shaft came off so I got to spend 30 mins putting all those !@^#^# pins back into it and back onto the drive shaft.

-Rick

 

Ah yes, it is fun ain't it? Been there......( Bittle Lastards )
My thought is that the grease on the yoke has an air pocket trapped. I've had the same prob a few times. I worked the yoke in and out several times and finally heard it "F@rt". Slipped right in after that.

 

The fun part was using a comb to get the couple of metal pins that fell into my hair.

 

With my long hair, I'd need a metal detector.
My opinion on needle bearings that fall out of the cup, is that there isn't near enough grease in the bearing, and I usually replace the whole "U" joint at that point. Make sure ya grease that sucka real good.I always get "U" joints that have grease zerts.

 

Lol I figured that was the problem so I greased the whole thing up before I put them all back in. I managed to replace them all except for one. So I'm not too worried about it.

 

Replace all of what, the "U" joints or needle bearings? If you're missing a needle bearing, replace the "U" joint. It wont last.

 

Hmm I'll see if I can find the bearing.

 

What happens is, the needles won't stay in alignment, and work at an angle. The surfaces no longer match up and rub the ends on each other, and on the cap. They will, eat each other up, so to speak. They won't lay flat against the inside wall of the cap and the bearing post.
An example, take a pencil and lay it inside a toilet paper roll. Note that if you angle the pencil, the center of the pencil no longer contacts the surface in the center, only at the ends.
I'd just replace the "U" joint. Then you can forget about it.

 

The damn u-joints on my 'Vette are sealed, no grease fittings. I NEVERbuy u-joints that don't have fittings. Sealed my neck!! The fittings are the life of the bearings.
And yes, you were told the "RIGHT" thing! Never leave out any of those needle bearings. The u-joint is not worth even keeping on the shelf let alone installing it on the shaftif one is missing. I always try to keep the caps on the joint and amVERY careful when I remove the one in order to startthe installationin the shaft. Even a small amount ofdirt on those needles when installed will wreck the joint.
It does sound like you're not one of those guys who use the "next biggest hammer" when things get tough. That's great. Better to be alittle more gentle than too forceful. It's true that air pockets in the grease will stop the yoke from seating in order to go up and back with the shaft toget the rear joint in. Just like he said, slide it back and give it a good shove, it won't hurt anything.
I used to think that the yoke was made of very hardened and tempered material. After hunting down severalpeople who had different tools that would possibly cut metal that was of some sort of super strength, while I was onleave (from the Army)back home, I went to see one guywho gave mea "hack saw" to takethehalfinch off, and then had my brotherput a taper on it and clean it up nicelyas my shaft wasa bittoo long. Talking about feeling like a perfect fool. LOL. The guy who gave me the hack saw to use stood with his hands on his hips and this look on his face like, what tree did you fall out of last night??? Live and learn. Never had a problem with it and back then I used to put the "real seriouswhammy" on anything performance I owned.
I hope your finished product comes out well. Just make darn sure you replace the missing needle or the u-joint.

 

doesnt the yoke have internal spliens that need to line up with the output shaft when you insert it back into the transmission.