I think it took longer since I stopped to snap pics, but here's what we got.

Motor off. Get reference pressure. Note: DIY gauges should be used only for reference; not actual pressure readings.Your recharge fitting should have a black screw off cap; difficult to see in pic 1. Remove it.

Screw your gauge into one end of your charge hose, and put the quick connect onto the recharge fitting. Note: R12 recharge fitting might be different, and require an adapter, supplied with conversion kit. Check the reading on the guage pic 2.

Mine is in the red, at approximately the '80' mark, just into the red. This okay; the motor is not on.

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Pull the trigger on the engine, and turn on the A/C on the max setting. Check the reading on the guage. If it has not moved, your compressor is not doing its' thing. You don't need to add freon now; something else is wrong.

Note in pic 3 that my guage went down to the green/blue line, which indicates '25'. Remember, the cheap guages are for reference only. Since my reading went down after firing the motor with the compressor engaged, the compressor is squeezing the line ahead of the compressor. Behind it, the line pressure goes down (low side line).

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Grab another fry...

Gitcher' own fries. COME BACK HERE!!!!!!!!!!

Danged dog![sm=violent053.gif]

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Now pull the quick disconnect from the recharge fitting. NOTE: Do not unscrew the guage from the line.

After disconnecting the quick disconnect, THEN unscrew the guage from the hose. Now, make sure your T-handle is completely backed out of the can-piercing fitting (pic 4 ), and screw it onto the can of freon (pic 5). DO not pierce the can at this time!

Now screw the hose onto the can-piercing fitting pic 6, and put the quick connect hose fitting onto the re-charge fitting pic 7.

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NOW (yeah, finally), now with the motor still runnin', and ONLY if the motor is still runnin', slowly screw in the piercing point into the can, and slowly unscrew it.

The can will now begin to get cold from discharging the freon. NOTE: some manufacturers say to hold the can upright. If there are no directions for this, hold it sideways. Cans of freon with oil say even to shake before and during discharge into the system.

When the can is empty, disconnect it the quick disconnect re-chargefitting.

Take a final reading, and write it down, for leak determination when it begins to cool not as well. Mine went to the blue/yellow line (pic 8), and since I have a slow leak, I'm not putting any more freon in it now. AND, I'm not sure of the guage accuracy. pic 9.

If you put in any mixed oil/freon or leak stop/freon, put it in first.

If you have an R12 system, the recharge fitting will be different to avoid improper mixing. Conversion kits usually have fitting adapters. Do the flush thing twice, withone can of flush each time. The procedure for any fluid into the system is the same (unless otherwise noted).

Remember, when testing to see if any R12 is left in an old system, don't hold the valve fitting open too long (WITH A HAND TOOL), since it should all vent.

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I don't mean to upset anyone with this comment but for everyone's info it is illegal to vent or discharge any refrigerant into the atmosphere, this is a nation wide EPA law that the U.S. and other environmentally concerned countries will enforce with stiff fines.

 

I thought the R12 was not legal anymore anyways???

Not that I would ever admit to having some

 

I saw it on the parts retailers' shelves (BEHIND THE COUNTER) last year for $32.00. That's the same size can as in the picture. I didn't see the R12; just the price. I think he also said certification was necessary was necessary to buy (don't quote me on that tho').

 

R-12 is not illegal to have in your possession, the Montreal Protocol called for it's phase-out and that no new equipment can be manufactured that uses R-12. That doesn't mean you can't service existing units that run R-12, it's just very expensive because along with the equipment new virgin R-12 can't be produced or imported. The new environmentally freindly refrigerants are as good or better as long as they are used in the right application.

 

Thanks for the pics and instructions CWB, that's one of my next projects (about a month) so I'm saving this as a favorite. I have to complete the weather seal replacement project first.

I just read an article from a very well know Corvetteexpert and he suggested not switching from R-12. That the 10-15% cooling you loose going to the new stuff makes very difficult to keep a C4 cool on a real hot or sunny day, especially a Targa top with the sun blasting thru it and the real solar panel (hatch windshield that is). My air hasn't worked since I bought the car so I've been using red neck air conditioning anyhow and since it hit 98 Deg in Michigan today that really suuuuccckkkks.

As for not making R-12 anymore, I'm sure China is still making it by the billions of barrels anyhow so the little bit released fromCWB's car probably won't hurt a whole lot.