Ok, so I went to drive my 89 after it has been sitting for a month or two and went t ostart it and it would turn over, but wouldnt start. Kept trying but then the battery went dead. So I threw it on the charger for a couple hrs and went back and still the same. Finally after a couple trys it started, but ran aweful! Like a couple cylinders were missing. Then the SES light came on. After about 5-10mins the idle smoothed out and it ran ok. Blew it out on the freeway, filled the tank and everything seemed fine. Stopped and started it a couple times with no problems. Then the next morning, same thing, ran aweful, threw the code and then after 5-10min everything ok, only this time while driving it, it stalled at idle. SO I pullted the code, a code 42 was the only one stored. So I pulled out the code book and looked it up. Said simply "bad ignition control modual, or bad ECU" so, being in my lazy state, i just threw a new ICM at it and took it for a test drive. Drove fine, no problems, then...yep you guessed it, back to its old ways. So i really dont want to throw anymore parts at this thing so I was hope you guys could maybe give me some insight! Maybe a little more info on the code 42. I know its for ESC/EST, but thats about it. As the car is now, when i go to start it cold, I get a quick burp out of it like it want to start but doesnt. And IF I do get it to start it runs like crap for 5-10mins. Oh, and one more thing, I noticed if I leave the key in the "key on/engine off" position for a couple minutes, the engines seems to want to fire up better if that makes any sense. I get more of a longer "stumble" out of it before it accually starts. I hope this is some good info guys and please shoot away with any questions!

Thanks all, love the forum!!

 

Put a timing light on it and see if timing is in base mode or advanced. Try unplugging "set timing" connector to see if there is any improvement as that takes the PCM out of the picture and puts it in base timing mode.

 

Thanks Mech, I tryed unplugging the connector and there is no change in its behavor. I will hook up a timming light and chect that out though. I have since deturmind that its not fuel. The commputer is commanding the injoectors to pulse, the fule rail has about 40-45psi of pressure at crank and i ohm checked all the injectors and they all read between 14.7-15.0. I pulled a spark plug and grounded it and cranked the engine over. It is sparking. But im wondering if the spark isnt hot enough to burn the fuel? I have heard of a coil getting "lazy" and still sparking but not enough to burn. Is that true?

 

Entirely possible. I'd invest in a spark checker from local auto parts because a spark checker will stress the coil to to the tune of about 20 kv which will tell if it is breaking down. You should have a bright blue spark. If it is light yellow and doesn't appear very bright, you might have a bad coil.

 

Great thanks, Ill see about getting one! Also one more thing, I took the distributor out (after the problem I have been having) And accidently turned the motor over counter clockwise about maybe a half turn. Will the cause any problems? I have heard that it can throw timing off big time, but I just dont see how?

 

You need to set the engine to TDC compression stroke on no. 1 cyl and reinstall your dist. to where it will fire on no. 1 cyl. You should use a compression tester to verify when you have it at TDC on the compression stroke. Then make sure your timing marks line up and you'll have it.

 

P.S.
The timing match up of the cam and dist. were thrown out of sink when you rotated the engine with the dist. removed. Any movement of the engine, no matter if only a few degrees, will throw the timing off if the dist. is removed. Your oil pump sycronisation is off too. Once you reinstall the dist., after following the above instructions, your dist. may sit a little high. Not to worry, the dist. will drop into place and engage with the oil pump again after a couple of rotations of the engine. I suggest that you just bump the starter a little at a time until the dist. drops into place. I usually just rest my hand on top of the dist. while someone else bumps the starter. This will help the dist. drop into place and keep the main body of the dist from rotating. Bolt it down gently and then you can fine tune your timing. Once your timing is set, tighten the dist. hold down bolt and you're done.

Incase you need it, firing order is 18436572.

 

Thanks Mech, im going to pick up on working on the vette after this weekend and Ill go down and pick one up!

Thanks C3, I put the engine at TDC on the comp stroke, reinstalled the dist. Ill have to wait to check out the timing till i can figure out this no start problem. It did take a little bit but I got the oil pump staft to line up too!

 

Sorry, another thing I should have mentioned, and very important....

You should identify where no. 1 is on the dist. cap and be sure that is where your
rotor is pointing. If not, re-install the dist. so that the rotor points to no. 1 on the cap.
The dist. and cam gears have a twist in them and the dist. shaft will rotate slightly as it slips into place. You may need to re-set the placement of the dist. to be sure it is actually lining up with no. 1 on the cap. Check it again after it drops into the oil pump as the dist. shaft will again rotate slightly due to the twist in the dist. and cam gears.

 

I noticed that too, I took into account that it would twist a little as I dropped it in. It should not be lined up with the no. 1 dist tower (at about the 5:30 position).