Lean Crossfire :(
#11
RE: Lean Crossfire :(
ORIGINAL: mech259
When you plug the set timing connector back in, it is supposed to raise timing up 10 to 15 degrees. What you are doing by disconnecting it is putting it in base timing, like unplugging vacuum advance on older cars. Need to watch the timing light when you throttle engine see if you getting around 20 to 25 degrees of total advance. Also, scantool costs are prohibitive if you are not in the business of using them. Most start around $1500.00 bare bones and go up from there. I have 3 or 4 at my shop and the last one, Mastertech, was (choke) $8100.00. Besides, if you don't know how to interpret the data, you would be wasteing your money. [8D]
When you plug the set timing connector back in, it is supposed to raise timing up 10 to 15 degrees. What you are doing by disconnecting it is putting it in base timing, like unplugging vacuum advance on older cars. Need to watch the timing light when you throttle engine see if you getting around 20 to 25 degrees of total advance. Also, scantool costs are prohibitive if you are not in the business of using them. Most start around $1500.00 bare bones and go up from there. I have 3 or 4 at my shop and the last one, Mastertech, was (choke) $8100.00. Besides, if you don't know how to interpret the data, you would be wasteing your money. [8D]
#12
RE: Lean Crossfire :(
Well, if your scantool has data, find the ESC portion. It will probably say no under the data. 1 way to test it is to tap with a hammer on a metal bracket on the engine with it warmed up and idleing and watch the ESC. If you tap hard enough, you will see it change from no to yes. ESC is used for retarding spark a couple of degrees to help eliminate engine detonation. If it says yes all the time or will not retard, then a few possiblities. one is the knock sensor, the other is the ESC module, which is on the passenger side of the blower case. It is flat and has a 4 or 5 wire connector on it. You might have to remove the lower side panel to get at it. The other possibility is a bad ground on the ESC circuit. If the engine is staying in the retard mode, you are running a little late on the timing. My money is on either the knock sensor or the ESC module. Also, check power circuit to ESC module. [8D]
#13
RE: Lean Crossfire :(
ORIGINAL: mech259
Well, if your scantool has data, find the ESC portion. It will probably say no under the data. 1 way to test it is to tap with a hammer on a metal bracket on the engine with it warmed up and idleing and watch the ESC. If you tap hard enough, you will see it change from no to yes. ESC is used for retarding spark a couple of degrees to help eliminate engine detonation. If it says yes all the time or will not retard, then a few possiblities. one is the knock sensor, the other is the ESC module, which is on the passenger side of the blower case. It is flat and has a 4 or 5 wire connector on it. You might have to remove the lower side panel to get at it. The other possibility is a bad ground on the ESC circuit. If the engine is staying in the retard mode, you are running a little late on the timing. My money is on either the knock sensor or the ESC module. Also, check power circuit to ESC module. [8D]
Well, if your scantool has data, find the ESC portion. It will probably say no under the data. 1 way to test it is to tap with a hammer on a metal bracket on the engine with it warmed up and idleing and watch the ESC. If you tap hard enough, you will see it change from no to yes. ESC is used for retarding spark a couple of degrees to help eliminate engine detonation. If it says yes all the time or will not retard, then a few possiblities. one is the knock sensor, the other is the ESC module, which is on the passenger side of the blower case. It is flat and has a 4 or 5 wire connector on it. You might have to remove the lower side panel to get at it. The other possibility is a bad ground on the ESC circuit. If the engine is staying in the retard mode, you are running a little late on the timing. My money is on either the knock sensor or the ESC module. Also, check power circuit to ESC module. [8D]
All the best!!!
#14
RE: Lean Crossfire :(
ORIGINAL: mech259
It is flat and has a 4 or 5 wire connector on it. You might have to remove the lower side panel to get at it. The other possibility is a bad ground on the ESC circuit. If the engine is staying in the retard mode, you are running a little late on the timing. My money is on either the knock sensor or the ESC module. Also, check power circuit to ESC module. [8D]
It is flat and has a 4 or 5 wire connector on it. You might have to remove the lower side panel to get at it. The other possibility is a bad ground on the ESC circuit. If the engine is staying in the retard mode, you are running a little late on the timing. My money is on either the knock sensor or the ESC module. Also, check power circuit to ESC module. [8D]
When you say bad ground on the ESC circuit, would this be the bracket to this module or one of the lines out of the four that are on the wire connector?
I think I'm staying in "retard mode" with this car, I've been through 5 cases of coronas since I started this project and surely going to Costco for more later today after I narrow it all down. I'll be going through all the wiring from the ESC to the distributor and testing if the knock sensor wire is in the proper sensor location.
This is one of the greatest forums for vette help ever!!! I'll be placing alot of links back to these forums from my sites!!!
All the best!!!
#16
RE: Lean Crossfire :(
Code 42 could also be caused by wrong ignition module. Verify you have the right module and I would go with an A/C Delco. I know I sound like a salesman for Delco, but they have a time proven quality that has always worked for me.
#17
RE: Lean Crossfire :(
ORIGINAL: mech259
Code 42 could also be caused by wrong ignition module. Verify you have the right module and I would go with an A/C Delco. I know I sound like a salesman for Delco, but they have a time proven quality that has always worked for me.
Code 42 could also be caused by wrong ignition module. Verify you have the right module and I would go with an A/C Delco. I know I sound like a salesman for Delco, but they have a time proven quality that has always worked for me.
So possibly the Ignition Module you say inside the distributor could be the culprit too huh? Well anyway to really check this module besides what's inside the Chiltons Book?
#18
RE: Lean Crossfire :(
ORIGINAL: gentoo
Now as being in "Park" there is no stuttering or chugging at all. However when taking it out on the road for a test I get the stuttering and chugging effect of like it's starving for fuel.
Now as being in "Park" there is no stuttering or chugging at all. However when taking it out on the road for a test I get the stuttering and chugging effect of like it's starving for fuel.
Also, your main problem is the Corona's. LOL. Need to stick with Miller Light or DOS Equis (XX)
#19
RE: Lean Crossfire :(
ORIGINAL: mech259
I forgot to ask, is your ignition system new, wires, cap, plugs, rotor? If so, I would suspect ESC module.
Also, your main problem is the Corona's. LOL. Need to stick with Miller Light or DOS Equis (XX)
ORIGINAL: gentoo
Now as being in "Park" there is no stuttering or chugging at all. However when taking it out on the road for a test I get the stuttering and chugging effect of like it's starving for fuel.
Now as being in "Park" there is no stuttering or chugging at all. However when taking it out on the road for a test I get the stuttering and chugging effect of like it's starving for fuel.
Also, your main problem is the Corona's. LOL. Need to stick with Miller Light or DOS Equis (XX)
HaHa well DOS Equis XX is the way to go but Miller Light I have to refute with you on, however if Costco keeps up selling me beer at the prices they have them cases for $22 then I'm a keep drinking till this is over with. Unless I wake up in the mornings to open the bottles then we have issues at 4:30AM [:-]
Dude I'm off to test more and will update you later on what I can find out, changing the pigtail connector to the knock sensor and double check the wiring all the way through and I'll update you of my findings... Not too sure how much a big role the knock plays but I'm a find out today.
All the best!!!!
(Great thread so far alot of options and hope others are learning as we go too)
#20
RE: Lean Crossfire :(
Knock sensor is grounded through the body of sensor to the block. Have you tried the "tap" test I described earlier and watch scantool reading? If the ESC is on yes all the time, chances are the knock sensor might be bad, or the ESC. Knock sensor are made of quartz crystal and are tuned to certain frequencies as detonation produces a frequency that makes it generate a small voltage so the module can tell when your engine is detonating. [8D]