newbe here with questions
#1
newbe here with questions
Hi all, I just got my 94corvette last Sat. And was wondering if you guys could help me out. I had to drive it 4 hours to get home and it seemed to work fine out on the highway. But in town the temp gauge get up there in the danger zone. But the digital gauge reads almost 40 degrees cooler. Going by the digital i can here the fan kick on about 230. This is town driving. Is that were it should kick on and what is the normal running temp. All im used to is my Buick GS and it runs around 190 highway and 210 in town. And my 2ed question is the information center mine has a solid peice of black plactic in front of it.How hard are these to change? And what all are they suposed to tell you?
#2
RE: newbe here with questions
ORIGINAL: 94 Black on Black
Hi all, I just got my 94corvette last Sat. And was wondering if you guys could help me out. I had to drive it 4 hours to get home and it seemed to work fine out on the highway. But in town the temp gauge get up there in the danger zone. But the digital gauge reads almost 40 degrees cooler. Going by the digital i can here the fan kick on about 230. This is town driving. Is that were it should kick on and what is the normal running temp. All im used to is my Buick GS and it runs around 190 highway and 210 in town. And my 2ed question is the information center mine has a solid peice of black plactic in front of it.How hard are these to change? And what all are they suposed to tell you?
Hi all, I just got my 94corvette last Sat. And was wondering if you guys could help me out. I had to drive it 4 hours to get home and it seemed to work fine out on the highway. But in town the temp gauge get up there in the danger zone. But the digital gauge reads almost 40 degrees cooler. Going by the digital i can here the fan kick on about 230. This is town driving. Is that were it should kick on and what is the normal running temp. All im used to is my Buick GS and it runs around 190 highway and 210 in town. And my 2ed question is the information center mine has a solid peice of black plactic in front of it.How hard are these to change? And what all are they suposed to tell you?
Guage discrepancy is uncool. Get the radiator shop to put the laser guided smart guage on the hoses to check the #'s.
Info center should look like a Christmas tree 'til you pull the trigger on the motor. Then the airbag lightwill flash, and the seatbelt too (buckle down!!!). Whatcha' gotta' change about it?
#4
RE: newbe here with questions
ORIGINAL: 94 Black on Black
Mine has a solid black peice of plactic covering it. The original face plate is gone so i dont know if its working right or not.
Mine has a solid black peice of plactic covering it. The original face plate is gone so i dont know if its working right or not.
Whatcha' got on yers?
#6
RE: newbe here with questions
I can't remember the stock fan settings for sure, but I'm thinking that the second fan kicks on at around 228-230. Before then, the primary fan should already be on. Regardless though, find someone who can edit your PCM and have them set to come on earlier. I use a racing radiator with a built-in oil cooler, an electric water pump, a 180 degree thermostat (stock is 195 on LT1s) and have the fans set at 185 and 200 degrees. Needless to say, this keeps her very happy and has also greatly reduced underhood and oil temperatures too. (I've also taken steps to increase airflow into and out of the engine compartment.) Oil temps are just barely higher than coolant temps now. It used to get up past 260 during a long duration, all-out run in the mountains, for example. Oil temps now rarely exceed 210 and stay under 200 in normal driving. Remember, oil not only lubricates your engine but helps cool it too. In fact it's the only thing carrying heat away from any parts below the water jackets. Until or unless you add an oil cooler, stay with synthetic oil in your LT1. These cars should have had oil coolers to begin with. For a stocker that will not see sustained hard use, altering the fan settings and keeping everything in your cooling system in top shape will suffice and your engine will thank you for it.
#7
RE: newbe here with questions
I would feel much better running temp. like that. I think firrst thing will be to go get it tested and see witch temp. gauge is right. Do both gauges use the same kind of senser? I was looking to see what they cost and only 1 temp senser was listed.
#8
RE: newbe here with questions
ORIGINAL: 94 Black on Black
I would feel much better running temp. like that. I think firrst thing will be to go get it tested and see witch temp. gauge is right. Do both gauges use the same kind of senser? I was looking to see what they cost and only 1 temp senser was listed.
I would feel much better running temp. like that. I think firrst thing will be to go get it tested and see witch temp. gauge is right. Do both gauges use the same kind of senser? I was looking to see what they cost and only 1 temp senser was listed.
#9
RE: newbe here with questions
ORIGINAL: Notorious
I can't remember the stock fan settings for sure, but I'm thinking that the second fan kicks on at around 228-230. Before then, the primary fan should already be on. Regardless though, find someone who can edit your PCM and have them set to come on earlier. I use a racing radiator with a built-in oil cooler, an electric water pump, a 180 degree thermostat (stock is 195 on LT1s) and have the fans set at 185 and 200 degrees. Needless to say, this keeps her very happy and has also greatly reduced underhood and oil temperatures too. (I've also taken steps to increase airflow into and out of the engine compartment.) Oil temps are just barely higher than coolant temps now. It used to get up past 260 during a long duration, all-out run in the mountains, for example. Oil temps now rarely exceed 210 and stay under 200 in normal driving. Remember, oil not only lubricates your engine but helps cool it too. In fact it's the only thing carrying heat away from any parts below the water jackets. Until or unless you add an oil cooler, stay with synthetic oil in your LT1. These cars should have had oil coolers to begin with. For a stocker that will not see sustained hard use, altering the fan settings and keeping everything in your cooling system in top shape will suffice and your engine will thank you for it.
I can't remember the stock fan settings for sure, but I'm thinking that the second fan kicks on at around 228-230. Before then, the primary fan should already be on. Regardless though, find someone who can edit your PCM and have them set to come on earlier. I use a racing radiator with a built-in oil cooler, an electric water pump, a 180 degree thermostat (stock is 195 on LT1s) and have the fans set at 185 and 200 degrees. Needless to say, this keeps her very happy and has also greatly reduced underhood and oil temperatures too. (I've also taken steps to increase airflow into and out of the engine compartment.) Oil temps are just barely higher than coolant temps now. It used to get up past 260 during a long duration, all-out run in the mountains, for example. Oil temps now rarely exceed 210 and stay under 200 in normal driving. Remember, oil not only lubricates your engine but helps cool it too. In fact it's the only thing carrying heat away from any parts below the water jackets. Until or unless you add an oil cooler, stay with synthetic oil in your LT1. These cars should have had oil coolers to begin with. For a stocker that will not see sustained hard use, altering the fan settings and keeping everything in your cooling system in top shape will suffice and your engine will thank you for it.
#10
RE: newbe here with questions
ORIGINAL: cwb
How many miles on your box when it used to run this hot there, notorious? Did you buy it new? Was the tune good then? Did you do other tune stuff that also might have brought the operating temps down?
How many miles on your box when it used to run this hot there, notorious? Did you buy it new? Was the tune good then? Did you do other tune stuff that also might have brought the operating temps down?