poor acceleration,
#11
You can also put a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum to check for a clogged converter. Measure vacuum @ idle, then throttle up to about 2000 rpm and if the gauge does not return to near what it was @ idle, you have an exhaust restriction.
#13
Hey, Mech 259, I was responding to Bederocobby as your last message didn't show up until later. Threr is no exhaust restriction. Car runs GREAT until it gets to operating temperature. Isn't that when the O2 sensor kicks in? At any rate, nothing will happen around here until next spring as it is about -5 degrees until about April.
#14
Check the operation of the coolant sensor and the O2. You will need a scan tool to see if the coolant sensor is reporting the right temp to the PCM. You can tap into the O2 wire if it is a one wire sensor or if it has a heater you need to determine which one is the signal to the PCM. On a warmed up engine, it should be cycling between around .2v to .8v, and when you snap the throttle, should go to almost a volt. If it stays pretty much constant, test by unplugging vacuum hose to brake booster to see if it drops lean (low volts) momentarily.
#15
poor acceleration
It's a one wire O2 on the passenger side exhaust. Tough to get at though. The noise it makes when it isn't running right is kind of a knock and BLAAAAHHH. I'll test the O2 sensor come spring time, which, if you believe the climate change "experts", should be any day now. But I'll bet on late April anyhow.
#20
poor acceleration
Pinging (or knocking like timing is off or low octane gas used to do when engines didn't have all the sensors etc and a guy could usually fix the car himself) and BLAHHH only worse than before I replaced the O2 sensors. I'm going to take it out today because the weather is half way decent and we'll see what happens.