Thanks, Its a 1989-

 

Nothing is corroded on mine that I can see so i think it was the fuze.

 

mine's having the same problem and I haven't addressed it yet. I did notice alot of corrosion on the wires and I'm guessing too much resistance causing a melt down, unless somethong in the strut itelf is messed up

 

I don't think that's right. More resistance means less current flow. If there's less current flow, the filament in the bulb (or likewise the connector) ain't gonna' glow.

I think it's too LITTLE resistance - too much flow. Like a capacitor failed, or a timer failed, that allows the current to keep flowin'TOO much. Although I don't have a wirin' diagram to confirm.

 

A corroded, or loose connection can cause heat to build up at the connector. The rear hatch supports have oil in them and have been known to leak on to the connector and could cause a poor connection.

 

Well, I replaced the struts on my and its still having the same problem.

 

Is it just on one side, or both?

 

Its just happend on the passanger side.

 

mine is only on the pass side too

 

Give this a try:

1. Disconnect the two faston terminals at the window glass end of the With a meter set to measure resistance scale and connect each meter lead to the terminals. The meter should not read open and continuity should be read across the defroster grid. If it reads open, the defroster grid has a break in it somewhere thatnees tobe repaired. Kits are available at car parts outlets to repair breaks in the grid or the faston terminals at the ends of the wire may be corroded or open and need to be replaced.

2. If there is resistance across the defroster grid proceed to measure voltage. Leave the two wires off that you previously removed. Start the car with the rear defroster on and with the meter set to read 12 volts DC, touch each meter lead to the terminals on the car end of the cylinders.The meter should read 12 to 14 volts. If no voltage is present, assure the faston terminals and tabs that they push on to are not corroded. Clean them if they are. If voltage is still not present, the problem lies in either the wiring or circuit breaker/fuse.

3. If you measured voltage in step 2, proceed to place each meter probe on the window end of the cylinders on the tabs that the terminals to the defroster grid connect to. 12 volts DC should be present. If voltage is not present, shut power off and measure for resistance from one end of the cylinder to the tab on the other end.They should be internally connected. The cylinders areprobably is not the problem if you replaced them.

This troubleshooting process will take no longer than 10 minutes and will indicate where to focus on to repair the defroster. Had to do this on my 89 and the problem was corroded faston terminals/wires at the car end of the cylinders. I have seen defroster grid repair kits on line and they consist of a cold type conductive solder that is applied to bridge any open circuits in the grid.

Wish I had time to supply pics but don't,

Best of luck