Hi Mech,
Thanks for jumping in.You had describe a procedure for me to follownot too long ago,to check the fuel system. It all checked out. at that time. You may remember, I was checking because of long cranking times but that turned out to be a dragging starter and worn solenoid.

In the past when it would stall it would not start at all and twice turned out to be the fuel pump and the other was the ECM in the distributor.

Would the relay stop intermittently or just stop altogether? They are printed boards right? not points like they used to be? The pump comes on just like it is supposed to and builds great pressure instantly. Tt holds the pressure while running and increases slightly with susstained acceleration and settles back down.
Is it normal forthe pumpto run-on after the ignition is off? This is a new thing. I always try to pay close attention to my cars but I really don't remember hearing the run-on of the pump before. would the fuel pressure regulator allow this if it were going bad? Also the pressure does bleed down after a short while, after the ignition is off, which I believe is normal, right?

The MAF connection is good butbeing yet another electronic gadget, it could be on it's way out. I need to check this if there is a way. Any tell tails on this one?

This time when it wouldn't start right away it did fire but seemed as though it was lacking fuel. Injector pulse? Guess I need to buy a noid light huh? What size?

The clicking I hear is coming from behind and under the battery. This may be completely seperate from the stall or the run on,but....There is a small contraption down there with several wires attached, what might that be?

Geesh ...sorry it so long here.

 

No, fuel pump relays still have the coil and poits setup to handle the amp draw of the fuel pump.



Yes

How quick does it bleed down? Bleed downcan be caused by leaking injector, regulator, or check valve in the pump.

There are 3 relays in that area, but I will have to go and look at my 86 to see what you are talking about.

 

The pressure will bleed down in about 20 minutes.

I can't believe I never heard the pump run on before.LOL! Better pay even closer attention than usual,huh? I guessthis car is 20 years old after all.

If the injectors were leaking wouldn't there be smoke and the smell of gas at startup? I get neither of these symptoms. But ....?

The clicking doesn't seem to be coming from the two relays I can see but from under the battery. I didn't notice any down there when I changed the battery out awhile back. just what looks like some sort of distribution contraption down in there. you have to look down in the space behind the battery. ??? It has a post instead of a plug like a relay.

What are the regulators like on the inside.is itsomething likea spring loaded pressure sensitive diaphragm as in an air regulator? Looks like it would be a PITA to change out with my fat fingers, LOL!

 

Hi Blueshark, I went out and listened to mine. I really didn't hear a clicking, but I did hear something, sounded more like a small electric motor that ran for about two seconds after I shut the engine off.
I do have one relay directly behind the battery, and Ihave no idea what it's for. And I think I see the "contraption" you're referring to, and it does look like a distribution outlet where the wires go through the firewall.

 

Hey rshiver, Thanks for lookin' at yours. I guess the electric motor we hear is the fuel pump. I can hear what sounds like fuel filling the rail as well. Again, I don't remember hearing this before. I'm wondering if my pressure regulator is on it's way out, unless, God forbid, the dang injectors are going bad. But..... like I said, no smoke or smell of fuel at start-up....? No wonder why I like carburetors so much, LOL!

 

It's got me curious now, ...It may have been the fuel going through the fuel rail or the fuel going through the pressure regulator.??

Hey Mech...would the fuel pump continue to run until the oil pressure dropped below 4 psi??

 

20 minutes bleed off is acceptable, fact, pretty normal. 10 - 20 seconds is not. Have you checked fuel pressure and spark in the sluggish starting condition? No trouble codes I presume? Need at least 25 to 30 lbs of fuel pressure, maintained, for successful starts. Have you checked spark plugs for fouling? If you have a spark checker to check spark, that would be better than a spark plug because it stresses the coil to at least 20 kv.

 

Generally, the oil pressure drops pretty quick. The ECM holds the fuel pump relay in for about 2 seconds after it fails to see an ignition signal from the ignition module, which is also a saftey feature ( don't want fuel being pumped into a wreck with a possible fire).

 

If you had an injector tester to run an injector balance test, that would certainly help. GM in the late 90's put an injector balance test built into the software of the ECM thatyou could use to run a balance test, but yours is not that new. You might try an injector clean (professionally done) to see if that helps since you can't run a balance test.

 

Another thing to watch is your tach when the car stalls and won't start. No tach means possible loss of ignition control since tach signal is derived from pickup coil through the ignition module.