Hey all,

Looking for my first Vette and I am planning on a C5.

My question is, how stout is the short block in this car?
I run a Procharger on my current car and I am planning on using it on the Vette. I realize I will need new plumbing, and I do run a two core IC with Snow Performance Meth to keep the IATs down.

I have been told that the LS block doesn't like boost so much, I find it hard to believe myself.

I am planning on some mods as I do race quarter mile, so is there anything I should avoid or look for in my purchase?

Thanks

 

Welcome to CF!
By short block, I assume you are refering to a Small Block.
If you really do mean "short block", as in the block and inerds, they are almost bullit proof.
It all really depends on how well you build it up. The less corners you cut, the better she'll perform. ( but you prob already know that )

 

Yeah, I meant the rods,crank,pistons, I figured it would be fairly solid, I just wasn't sure if the Vette motor had the same weakness in the way of pistons as a lot of other late model motors do.

 

I run between 5 and 7 lbs of boost from my vortech with aftercooler. I have other mods but nothing is done to the bottom end on my engine. I would say at the engine im about 540-560 hp, so far 20k and some odd miles on the setupand no major problems except the occasional belt throw.

PS:I'm 22 and run my car way harder than most people with thistypeof setupwould including taking it to the track and so on. I would say your pretty much good to go with the pro charger which is basically a vortech.

 

That is exactly the kind of info I needed, thanks.

BTW, what kind of track, 1/4 mile? If so, what times have you run?

 

"My question is, how stout is the short block in this car?"
First, keep in mind that the block, the crank, the rods, and the pistons get torn apart by torque -- twisting force. Whether its at 1000 RPM or 6000 RPM, its peak torque, not peak HP, that will destroy an engine.
A stock LS 1, 2, or 6 block and rotating assembly can take about 450-475 RWT and stay together as long as you don't abuse the engine. With a blown engine that's usually about 500-525 rWHP max. If you replace the crank, rods and pistons with good aftermarket stuff the block itself will be good to about 15% more. If you want more than that, go with an iron block (used in Silverado and some Escalades) -- I have one in the Camaro. They can take up to about 850+RWT with the right rotating assemblies. If you want more than that you have to buy the GMPP LSX iron block, which can take 1000+
Also, there is a boost issue: I would not go over about 9 lbs of boost (8 to be safe) with the stock engine. Pistons tend to crack, head gaskets go.
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"I run a Procharger on my current car and I am planning on using it on the Vette. I realize I will need new plumbing, and I do run a two core IC with Snow Performance Meth to keep the IATs down."

If its a P model it will be good to about 8 or 9 lbs boost on a stock engine and all the power the stock bottom end can take. If you go with for more than about 10 lbs you need to consider a D1 model, more than 18 lbs, an F model Procharger for sure. The C5 intercoolers from Procharger and a split set, one each under the headlights. A&S corvettes makes a uprated single model.
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"I have been told that the LS block doesn't like boost so much, I find it hard to believe myself."
Bull . . . but itdoes seem to be quitesensitive to the cam-boost combination. Get an good aftermarket cam designed forboost.
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"I am planning on some mods as I do race quarter mile, so is there anything I should avoid or look for in my purchase?"
The rear end is a weakness: if you run 500 RWT and slicks you will eventually shatter/rip the guts out of the differential. Reinforced output shafts, innards, and a "gridle" to reinforce it are available, or you might simply want to avoid harsh launches on slicks. You might consider Lingenfelter's mini-tubbing kit, which allows you to run wheels up to 12x18 or 13x19s and tires up to 345 width -- I ran 345 drag radials on my car with a stock differential (except hardened output shafts).
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Other advice: get a dual core radiator with a oil cooler built in, and install it before you mount the SCr - you'll need tha dditional cooling: the Procharger intake/filter assembly mounts against the radiator in a C5 and they compete for space a bit: you can get them to fit together but its much easier to mount the radiator first, then fuss with the SCR.

Good luck.

 

Great info Lee, thanks.

I am running a P1SC at 10 pounds with a 3.1 pulley, this setup used to run 12.5 PSI until I had the heads ported and polished and had cams ground for the blower. It sounds like I need to start with a larger pulley to be sure I am running under 10 pounds.

My goal is to see about 500 RWHP so it sounds like a mild bottom end build is the safest bet.

Who do you recommmend for a good cam/head combo?

Oh another thing, what are the limitations of the stock injectors and pump?

Thanks again

 

I run low 12s but that is at bandimere which is 6000 feet above sea level, that is also on street tires, no drs or slicks. I would think around sea level or even where I lived before which is Chicago I would be mid to low 11's.

 

With 465/480 at the rear wheels my 'vette did mid 11s. With 704/663 it does low 10s. Trap speed was/is high in both cases - never used slicks and 2-wheel drive launches with that much power can't put it all to the ground.

 

Sounds like mid 11s should be no problem then, I don't want to have to go with a cage so that works for me.

Thanks again.