Increasing HP on a C6
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7
From:
Increasing HP on a C6
I just got my 2005 yellow and I am very happy with it. But i would like to increase the horse power. My deader offers to install Headers, crossover X pipe,exhaust system and a good air intake. Any sugestions? What's the com's and pro's?
Thanks
Thanks
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,105
From: Central North Carolina
RE: Increasing HP on a C6
If you mean the equivalent of 465-500 HP compared to the factory 400 HP, that represents a 15 - 20% increase andis do-able although it will require more than what the dealer suggested.
If you mean 465-500 HP at the rear wheels (that's all that really matters), since the car has about 340 (automatic trans) to 355 (manual trans) at the rear you are talking about something on the order of 33% - 40%.
Recommendation number 1: find someone other than the dealer. Generally they charge way too much, particularly for the parts. Most important though, you need to find a shop that can do other mods in the future, some of which a dealer will not want to make, with mechanics that really know high performance, and with a dyno and custom PCM (power control module) re-programming capability. You will not find that at the average, or even typical above average dealer.
Recommendation 2: make a long term plan and then add the mods as you can.
About 390 RWHP (equivalent to 465 HP engine rating): you can get just barely this with good long tube headers (1 3/4 inch diameter) and high-flow cats, a good X-pipe and cat back exhaust, cold air, and a new cam or 1.8:1 rocker arms, and a really good dyno session and retuning of the PCM.
About 430 RWHP (equilvalent to 500 HP): this is a no-man's land -- you can't get here without doing something to the heads but once you've done that is is easy to get even more). You need a heads and cam package, long tube headers (but 1 7/8 inch now), X-pipe, cat back, and cold air, with a very good tune (expect to spend upwards of $600 on it).
465 - 500 RWHP (equivalent to 515-565 engine rating). It is possible to get into this range with a good heads and cam package, a FAST intake manufold and new throttle body, long-tube headers, X-pipe and cat back, cold air, larger injectors, and a really good tune.At the high end of this range with the stock displacement you need to go for higher revs and that means better valve gear including shaft mounted rockers. All that and you have the power but its peaky -- you've lost some low end torque.
A much better way is to go with a supercharger, headers and exhaust, etc. which makes 465 - 490 RWHP very easy, provides good torque, and is pretty clean and quick.
Be aware that the stock engine will take up to around465 RWHP without real problems, but it will not take 525 RWHP and stay together too long (particularly if you use that power often). Somewhere in that range is the limit of its durability -- nothing is exact and it depends both on luck and how you drive. If you really want 500 or near that at the RW wheels, it is best to rebuild the entire bottom end.
If you mean 465-500 HP at the rear wheels (that's all that really matters), since the car has about 340 (automatic trans) to 355 (manual trans) at the rear you are talking about something on the order of 33% - 40%.
Recommendation number 1: find someone other than the dealer. Generally they charge way too much, particularly for the parts. Most important though, you need to find a shop that can do other mods in the future, some of which a dealer will not want to make, with mechanics that really know high performance, and with a dyno and custom PCM (power control module) re-programming capability. You will not find that at the average, or even typical above average dealer.
Recommendation 2: make a long term plan and then add the mods as you can.
About 390 RWHP (equivalent to 465 HP engine rating): you can get just barely this with good long tube headers (1 3/4 inch diameter) and high-flow cats, a good X-pipe and cat back exhaust, cold air, and a new cam or 1.8:1 rocker arms, and a really good dyno session and retuning of the PCM.
About 430 RWHP (equilvalent to 500 HP): this is a no-man's land -- you can't get here without doing something to the heads but once you've done that is is easy to get even more). You need a heads and cam package, long tube headers (but 1 7/8 inch now), X-pipe, cat back, and cold air, with a very good tune (expect to spend upwards of $600 on it).
465 - 500 RWHP (equivalent to 515-565 engine rating). It is possible to get into this range with a good heads and cam package, a FAST intake manufold and new throttle body, long-tube headers, X-pipe and cat back, cold air, larger injectors, and a really good tune.At the high end of this range with the stock displacement you need to go for higher revs and that means better valve gear including shaft mounted rockers. All that and you have the power but its peaky -- you've lost some low end torque.
A much better way is to go with a supercharger, headers and exhaust, etc. which makes 465 - 490 RWHP very easy, provides good torque, and is pretty clean and quick.
Be aware that the stock engine will take up to around465 RWHP without real problems, but it will not take 525 RWHP and stay together too long (particularly if you use that power often). Somewhere in that range is the limit of its durability -- nothing is exact and it depends both on luck and how you drive. If you really want 500 or near that at the RW wheels, it is best to rebuild the entire bottom end.
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 236
From:
RE: Increasing HP on a C6
you may want to look at NOS. best bang for the buck.safe if you use your head.as stated before make a plan,where will the car be used ? street,dragstrip,roadrace,every day driver,stick,auto.the best mod and first should be a 3 day driving school
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 236
From:
RE: Increasing HP on a C6
you can do a search on the forums for classes,i think there is one in your area.NOS nitrous ox. its a gas thats injected into your motor with extra fuel.cams,headers,etc all give HP boosts measured at flywheel.eg; cam 20 hp gain, but NOS . is measured at rear wheels. a 125 hp shot of NOS is just that 125 HP at rear wheels.it will blow the stock tires away
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,105
From: Central North Carolina
RE: Increasing HP on a C6
Nitrous oxide is a cheap and very effective power adder: you can buy kits that will give you 50, 75, 100, 150, or if you spend a lot 250 HP. The last two will destroy your engine in short order. The first two will not do any significant damage.
With NOS you have a high pressure bottle in the trunk (looks like a scuba tank) and aa hose to the engine and various buttons and valves that spray it in upstream of the throttle when it is open fully. The NOS enters the combustion chamber and converts to nitrogen (harmless) and oxygen, the way the NOS is injected it tricks the enginer ocmputer into dumping morefuel into to match the oxygen increase. Result, more fuel, too: more oygen, more fule, == more power. Downside is that a full pressure bottle gives you maybe a minute of additional power. Upside is that a whole kit costs maybe 700$ but adds 100 HP, and that the way NOS burns, it is actually easier on the engine than any other way to get that much power (its still hard on the engine, just not quite as hard).
NOS is effective: think of it like steriods. Works for a while (but only for a while), but not quite the same as having the power all the time. We have it on the Camaro and the most fun part is the purge valve. You have a button to spray a bit out the end of the pipe into the air (instead of the engine) to clear air out of the hose from the tank and "charge" the system prior to use. When NOS starts exiting the purge valve it turns into white "steam" (its very cold and is condensing the water vapor in the air). We have our purge valve feeding in two streams out the front ran air hood scoops -- when we purge iot looks like the car is some cartoon bull blowing huge streams of steam out its nostrils. I think we use 1/3 of the NOS just showing off while we are cruising.
Anyway, there is a downside, unless you hide the bottle well (they make mins -- good for one quarter mile race, that fit in floveboxes, if you get pulled over by the cops, suspected of street racing, and they see a NOS bottle with the valve turned on, its just an automatic ticket and a lot of hassle.
With NOS you have a high pressure bottle in the trunk (looks like a scuba tank) and aa hose to the engine and various buttons and valves that spray it in upstream of the throttle when it is open fully. The NOS enters the combustion chamber and converts to nitrogen (harmless) and oxygen, the way the NOS is injected it tricks the enginer ocmputer into dumping morefuel into to match the oxygen increase. Result, more fuel, too: more oygen, more fule, == more power. Downside is that a full pressure bottle gives you maybe a minute of additional power. Upside is that a whole kit costs maybe 700$ but adds 100 HP, and that the way NOS burns, it is actually easier on the engine than any other way to get that much power (its still hard on the engine, just not quite as hard).
NOS is effective: think of it like steriods. Works for a while (but only for a while), but not quite the same as having the power all the time. We have it on the Camaro and the most fun part is the purge valve. You have a button to spray a bit out the end of the pipe into the air (instead of the engine) to clear air out of the hose from the tank and "charge" the system prior to use. When NOS starts exiting the purge valve it turns into white "steam" (its very cold and is condensing the water vapor in the air). We have our purge valve feeding in two streams out the front ran air hood scoops -- when we purge iot looks like the car is some cartoon bull blowing huge streams of steam out its nostrils. I think we use 1/3 of the NOS just showing off while we are cruising.
Anyway, there is a downside, unless you hide the bottle well (they make mins -- good for one quarter mile race, that fit in floveboxes, if you get pulled over by the cops, suspected of street racing, and they see a NOS bottle with the valve turned on, its just an automatic ticket and a lot of hassle.