Hey cwb & the other forum brothern' My horn now works w/ the new relay. only thing is i don't believe this is normal (remember i'm not a mechanic or elec tech). The horn sounds sick without the car running, which leads to other serious problems (Electrical). This could be lengthy guys, please be patient. As i posted above my brother-in-law tested all fuses. since he did that my new pioneer stereo which i had installled 2 months ago at best buy, now does not shut off with the ignition. I have to manually shut it off. Could he possibly have removed the fuse for the radio & plugged it back in the wrong terminal??? Also last night i went to start the vette & had to jump start. Drove it for about 15 minutes to charge the battery, stopped for ice cream cone(shut it off, BIG MISTAKE!!) had to call my b-i-l to come jump start it. Drove home 2 miles, shut it off it would not restart. Why would that battery drain so quickly??? I can see this electrical thing being a night mare. Just 1 more quick thing. a couple of weeks after i had the stereo installed it started getting feedback in the speakers, like the ground was bad. I regrounded the radio, & when you first start it after it's been sitting for a day or longer the static is in the speakers but clears up after you drive it awhile. Kind of weird isn't it?????? So i guess the final sumation is between the horn sounding sick, the radio static & the battery draining right down, it's all the same issue from one point??????? HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Where do i start guys???
Thanks, BERNIE 79/L82

 

i think its time to get a repair manual(factory is better) and an electrical wiring diagram. i bought my 79 l48 last year with a number of problems(headlights, wiper, horn, radio, signal lights, ac blower and few more i cant remember) i also have limited electrical knowledge but with the help of manuals and a few friendsand members of CF i was able to fixall of them. i would start by checking as much of the wiring as you can.

 

Hi again, glad that the horn relay solved the problem. You say it beeps but sounds sick, try cleaning the bracket that mounts the horns to the body and clean the horn wire connections. Got a spare working horn to use to check to see if yourhornsare good?
You said the car had to be jumped to start it, go to the auto store and see if the battery and alternator are good. while your doing that check the battery cables for a good ground and a good connection at the starter and at the alternator.
The Radio: Original radios had no memory so when you turned the key to "run" the radio got power. ( a yellow wire on my car ). Most new radios all have the same colors coming out of them.
black-goes to ground
yellow-constant 12 volts for memory
red-switched, turns radio off with key
In the middle of your fuse box there should be some flat terminals, take the yellow from your radio and hook it to the "bat" terminal, that will save your memory.
Then if your car is wired like mine connect the red from the radio to the yellow and your radio will turn off with the key. Hope this helps, PG.

 

When did this start?(that you have to turn it off separately)?

EDIT:

Battery drain?

Unplug the battery.

Pull every fuse.

Test current with a multi-meterfrom the battery + post to the battery + cable. Should be NO draw, since all fuses are out. Got a draw? There's your problem.

Replace fuses one at a time, to 'SWITCHED' devices. These are the guys that come on only when the key is turned to 'ON'. After putting each one in, test for draw. Should be NO draw, since the key is off.

Repeat forUNswitched devices. You should get a fraction of an amp draw for some of these - they're the guys who are workin' 24/7, and they're designed to NOT take down the battery's charge.


ALSO: The 15 minute trip for ice cream should have charged the battery. You need to check the field output on the alternator (easy), and check the battery 's condition (trip to auto parts retailer - free).

 

As for the horn sounding "sick" when the car is off... the stock horns are metal, and sit way outboard in front of the front wheel where salt and crud can get built up over the years. Lower voltage (even acceptable 11.5-12 volts as compared to about 13.8 or so coming from the alternator when running) might make the diaphragm chatter or stutter in a rusty, crusty, or dusty horn. If you aren't worried about "show original" parts, the local auto parts store will have a high-low double horn kit for about $20 with plastic case instead of the stamped and rolled sheet steel. Just don't forget to run a ground, as the bracket bolts to fibreglass... Most "universal" kits presume bracket ground and have a single wire for power.

Come to think of it... you might want to check the ground on the horns first... might have a bad connection there.

bill.