supercharger
#1
05-22-2007, 07:48 PM
supercharger
I drive my 2005 C6 daily. It has a manual transmission, I am considering having a Pro Charger supercharger with a mild 6 psi boost installed after the factory warrnty runs out. I would like to hear from anyone who has already installed such a unit concerning the effect and or advisability of that application to a dialy driver. I would estimate that I do 60% city driving and the balance freeway, or similar roads. I am more concerned about heat at slower speeds than I am concerned with fuel economy.Obviously my objective is to gain an aproximate 100 rwhp without getting into some unexpected technical drawback. Any thoughts or technical rumors on this possible modification would be appreciated.
#2
05-22-2007, 08:08 PM
RE: supercharger
Welcome to CF! 
There are several people here with 'chargers on their Vettes.
Not me though, Yet.
There are several people here with 'chargers on their Vettes.
Not me though, Yet.
#3
05-22-2007, 08:43 PM
RE: supercharger
I have a Vortech supercharger on my C5 and it's a daily driver. It's just as good of a daily as my 240sx with no mods.
#4
05-22-2007, 09:39 PM
RE: supercharger
I had a Maggie on my stock block for two years with 6 lbs boost and it gave no problems at all in daily driving. Generally, 6 lbs of boost will push the engine to about 120 more RWHP, which is within what it can handle if not abused.
I have a Procharger D1SC on my vette since the 427 cubic inch engine went in and it gave some problems but mostly because it is blowing the equivalent of what would be 16 lbs if pushed into a stock engine -- i.e., it's really working haqrd. The D1SC is a slightly upgraded model of the P model that most 'vette owners use, -- the P is fine particularly for 6-8 lbs boost on an otherwise stock engine. These model Prochargers have a flaw when pushed to high boost levels -- the idler and tensioner pulley plate warps, causing belt throwing. The solution is an upgraded frame from A&A corvettes. But I doubt that problem will surface with a P at six pounds on a stock 'vette engine. (By the way, I do not have first hand experience but hear the Vortech has the same problem).
Either way, the real secret of having a good daily driver SC'd vette is to get a really good tune -- find a shop that knows its stuff and has LS1Edit or the equilvalent to retune the ECM while on the dyno and on the street. Most folks focus on tuning at full throttle for max power (this is actually easy to do and cheap), but the real finesse comes in having the car tuned well at just off idle, and at low power, and when hardly warmed up, partily warmed up, etc., while being driven-- those conditions are where it will be most of the time every day on the way to work, etc. That type of tune costs a lot more. A "put it on the dyno and work the full-throttle tune" costs about $500, but in addition I paid close to $2000 for a full tune on my car, and it was worth it -- drives like just like it was a factory product under all conditions.
I have a Procharger D1SC on my vette since the 427 cubic inch engine went in and it gave some problems but mostly because it is blowing the equivalent of what would be 16 lbs if pushed into a stock engine -- i.e., it's really working haqrd. The D1SC is a slightly upgraded model of the P model that most 'vette owners use, -- the P is fine particularly for 6-8 lbs boost on an otherwise stock engine. These model Prochargers have a flaw when pushed to high boost levels -- the idler and tensioner pulley plate warps, causing belt throwing. The solution is an upgraded frame from A&A corvettes. But I doubt that problem will surface with a P at six pounds on a stock 'vette engine. (By the way, I do not have first hand experience but hear the Vortech has the same problem).
Either way, the real secret of having a good daily driver SC'd vette is to get a really good tune -- find a shop that knows its stuff and has LS1Edit or the equilvalent to retune the ECM while on the dyno and on the street. Most folks focus on tuning at full throttle for max power (this is actually easy to do and cheap), but the real finesse comes in having the car tuned well at just off idle, and at low power, and when hardly warmed up, partily warmed up, etc., while being driven-- those conditions are where it will be most of the time every day on the way to work, etc. That type of tune costs a lot more. A "put it on the dyno and work the full-throttle tune" costs about $500, but in addition I paid close to $2000 for a full tune on my car, and it was worth it -- drives like just like it was a factory product under all conditions.
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