Ok, I am going to see if I find the guy I sold the heads to and buy them back.

 

[sm=icon_rock.gif]

 

I recently had my L 46 professionally rebuilt in my '69. It's a high mileage car [400k] and I had rebuilt the engine twice myself but this time I wanted a pro to do it. Naturally, both the 202 heads were bad. This shop found a pair of 202 heads that had never been built and had the same casting numbers as the original. Virgin! They charged me $400 for the blanks and then built them with everything new, stock. The cylinders went .020 over with flat top pistons to reduce the compression to 9.5. Steel crank was good. The pink rods were good. Still had some color on them. Mild cam to compensate for the lower compression. Running a stock Corvette distributor and Quadrajet. They also rebuilt the Muncie M21 that came from the factory. Did a great job. She screams. And all the numbers still match.

 

Sorry but believe you have the valve diameters a little mixed up on Double hump or fuelie cylinder heads
Intake ValveDiameter(in): 2.020 in
ExhaustValveDiameter(in): 1.600 in.
CombustionChamberVolume(cc): 67
IntakeRunnerVolume(cc): 165cc
MaximumValveLift(in): 0.520 in.

I believe the these heads are being manufactured again complete with valves, springs guide plates to ordinal specifications for under 400 bucks ready to slap in and go.

 

Wouldn't be the first time I got numbers screwed up.
Thanks for pointin' this out.

BTW, Welcome to CF!

 

Aluminum heads look cool and are a tad lighter but unless you plan on raceing the vehicle continuosly, cast heads can take way more abuse and will have a much longer life span.
the fuelie heads are great but not if your gonna run above 10.5:1 compression do to the crap pump gas out there these days.
A very knowledgable engine builder once told me the best money you can spend to make power is on the cam and heads if it cant breath it wont run!!
thats why i have dart 2 sportsman cast heads with 2.050 intake valves on my 383.

 

On "Mortec," you can look up the casting numbers on the heads and find out what you need.
The "runningest" set of heads out today are mfg'd by "AFR" (air flow research). No need to buy them bare anymore and get other hardware. For $1,400.00 you have the best thing going.
The old 2.02"s not only run good, but they're, to me, a piece of automotive history.

 

Valve size and runner volume can make or break an otherwise well built motor, it all depends on what your expecting to do with your total package. Typically, the larger the valves, you will be running in the higher RPM range to make horsepower, a smaller valve will keep the intake velocity higher and result in more torque in the lower RPM range. If your going with a fuel injection setup then you could use the larger valve heads because the intake charge would not rely on velocity to keep the fuel suspended in the runners.

 

Typically, you're wrong. Mild small blocks run very well at low and mid range with the 2.02" valves. Cams and exhaust, like an "H" pipe about 18"s off the headers, size of header tubes, etc. play a huge role at that stage. I didn't grow up in the computer age, and I do know that you don't have to go with 1.94s or smaller to get good low and mid-range torque, if you know how toengineer your own stuff and not just paying for someone else to make your case. No need in explaining something to me that I've built many times over w/ success.
**** Bob, you're my age. If you were into and building motors in high school, you'd know about the 2.02s and the surrounding mechanicsand related components. I thought I was talking to a young guy until my heart rate went up and I checked your profile. LOL

 

Quick question guys, I bought a set of double hump heads onceto useon a 383,but they didn't have any accessory bolt holes. Are there different kinds of double hump aka fulie heads? if I remember right, they had small and large humps?

And another thing I remember about them, they had 2.02 intake and 1.50 exhaust, not 1.60's,anybody ever heard of that combo?, 64 cc chambers.When I had them worked at the machine shop, I had new hardened seats, valve guides, and had the 1.60's put in. New stainless steel valves, and had them shaved. Ended up with about 800 bucks in em, paid 4 for the heads and over 4 at the machine shop.