Whoa, wait a minute,........
We chained the blockby goin'around behind the motor mount, and then around the frame, tiein' the ends together with a bolt,......no welding.
It doesn't take a verythick chain to do the job.Depending on the chain we used, we might have had to collapse a few links.
Twist and flatten the links with a BFH.
Every "Bubba" has his own method. ( including me....)
I've seen several wraps of balin' wire used for the same effect. [sm=icon_rofl.gif]

73Shark has the right idea, the interlocking motor mounts.

 

I was going to just change the left one, they were both replaced when the motor was replaced which was Aug 2002. You think I should change the right side too?
Ok, I'll call auto zone tomorrow and see if they have the interlocking type and I'll do both.
That's what makes this the best forum, lots of good advise, Thanks to everyone, PG.

 

Yeah, been there done that. Took the car in for new lower control arm bushings last year and on a hunch I asked the guy to check the mounts. Turns out they were both busted. In retrospect it was simple math. 35 year old engine mounts and a 400hp small block. But hey, I'm not the moron that spends $thousands$ rebuilding an engine and then reuses the original mounts. Did I mention that he was a moron?

But then again, I always wondered about those marks on the underside of the hood.

Seriously, talk about being lucky, when a mark on the underside of the hood is the worst of it.

I noticed that no one mentioned the advantages of aftermarket polyurethane mounts over OE style rubber mounts. Just my 2cents.

 

C3,
Very true. The chain can be added, w/o welding, in a handful of different ways, which is more practical for the regular guy who doesn't own a welder. The weld was just the more common way to go. (And C3, we both know that by distorting the links with a BFH or anything else it also weakens them, which may be the reason for the welding being more common. From operating a crane for years, I've come to dislike chains and prefer cables and straps.) As I thought about the topic after reading all the prior posts and prior to posting a reply, I thought of afew different ways to chain w/o welding. I DO think thatthe inter-locking mounts are a super good idea as, in this case, it eliminates using the chains, the extra work, knocks out two birds w/ one stone. On my G20 Van, the mounts have the long horizontal bolts going through the rubber part of the mount in a metal sleeve with the bottom part of the mount that bolts to the frame going around the rubber and long bolt in a "C" channel shape, therefore in the event of failure, wouldn'tallow the mount to separate but only move up about an inch or so. I can't say that I've ever seen these before, but a good design for sure. Possibly only a 3/4 ton application.
Also, as I got from the prior posts in this topic, I also feel that both mounts should be changed when one goes bad, especially when they're old anyway. Another good idea was, from prior posts, to spend the extra few dollars for some good mounts if you have an engine that's considerably stronger than stock.
Overall "Good Topic."

 

I opperate a crain from time to time, and I agree about usin' cable or straps. Actually I prefer straps, ya ever seen what happens when a cable breaks? Not good. []I sawa cable break when I used to log in the Northwest. If it don't get cha, it'll sure scare the "Schmidt" out of ya.

 

However, C3, cables can take a hell of a beatin' and even w/some strands broken, they can still (legally) take some weight. (andcables are what we all see where the BIG weight is bein' hung!-hundreds of pounds per runnin' foot.) But, yes, straps are my favorite too. See how us Corvette owners agree SO easily, and sincerely. I suppose that I can agree with a "fella' Corvette enthusiast/wrench-turner @that" even more so than I could my wife...LOL Just quit beatin' hell outa' those links...LOL

 

pg- motor mounts changed in 2002? why the early failure? I would think they would last a bit longer.

 

Hi dar322, why would it fail so soon? Very good question! I have a base engine ( about 200 HP ) I don't( or can't ) spin the rear tires. When I come to a light and I'm first in line I like to get to 55 mph fast. The left side is the side that absorbes the torque so I guess that I stretched it once to often. I'll get the new mount tomorrow and check the other side while I'm at it. PG.

 

Let us know how it goes. You sticking with stock or going for the super duper urethane mounted, zercon uncrusted, indestructible,zinc plated aftermarket model?

 

Don't you have to use the chrome plated titanium muffler bearings with those?[sm=happybounce.gif]