The only place I ever saw a negative camber spec on the front wheels was when autocrossing. But with your wide tires, 0.1 degrees is about right.

If I'm interpreting your actuals correctly, then they are saying you have 0.45" of toe-in. Or are they giving it in degrees? Never saw that before but 0.45" is not good.

Personally I'd want at least -0.5 degrees rear camber to keep the rear end behind you. When you stand behind your Corvette,the tops of the rear tires should noticeably lean in at the top.

If it drives right and it's not chewing up the tires, then you are probably OK.

BTW, the figures I posted earlier were from the Chevy Service Manual and were in fractions.

 

Hi 73shark, yes everything is listed in degrees, I have no clue what it all means. I just put a straight edge from the top of therim to the bottomof the rim on therear tires and checked it with a leveland yes the top leans in, so if you can tell me what it all means, and how to go from fractions to degrees, it would help me to understand what it all means. Thanks for the help. PG

 

Hey pg, I appreciate your help with the specs on your car, are you happy with the way it handles on the highway, mine is a little bit darty and I think it's because I have no toe in or negitive camber on the rear.

 

Hi again 78buckshot, yes I'm very happy with the way my car handles. I did pretty much the same as you did, I pulled off the trailing arms and had new bearings and bushings installed. Then I went to a shop and had the front end rebuilt with new bushings and ball joints. That was 12 -19 -01. (46,797 miles)They gave me an alignment and the car tracked fine. By October of 05 I got one flat which I had pluged and I noticed the left front was worn more on the inside than normal, so I put the rear tires on the front and got the 60's for the rear, and thats how I ended up at Goodyear. My car will do highway speed and not drift or dart. I'm sure that they will get it right for you. Enjoy your ride! PG

 

By the way, don't forget to thank 73shark as he seems tono a lot more than I do about this. PG

 

Thanks to all the CF family for the responce.

 

The way I set/check my rear camber is to place a piece of 2X4 that is just long enuf (about 15" w/ stock wheels) to bridge the diameter of the wheel. With the car on a level surface, the top end of the 2X4 should be 1/4" off vertical (top of wheel leaning in). This equates to -7/8 degree or 0.875 degree in decimal form. You always want to recheck after tightening the strut rod cam adjustors.

Like I posted on another forum, some alignment guys just go to get it within specs and others will try to get close to nominal. Try to find the latter.

 

Hey 73shark, I appreciate all the info, I think I'll try to adjust the rear toe and camber myself since I have all new stainless trailing arm shims and new bolts. Also I put on heavy duty adjustable strut rods so it will be easy to re-set the camber and record the original position if I need to go back to it, thanks Marc.

 

Sounds good. Let us know how you do the toe-in. I never could find an easy way to do that.