Do you have to drop the steering colume to get at the 4 nuts on the firewall and get to the clevis clip?
The old booster has a clevis and the new one has an eyelit to hook up to the brake pedal (should that be a problem)? Also, the new booster just has a hole and rubber gromet on the side that bolts to the M/C. I thought there was suppose to be a small rod poking out.
Thank you in advance

 

Is the new booster OEM?

 

The C3 Shop Manual does not say anything about dropping the steering column.
Says: Disconect hydraulic lines atmain cylinder, disconnect push rod at brake pedal assembly. Remove nuts and lock washers securing power unit to fire wall and then remove power unit from engine compartment.

This is why I asked if it is a OEM unit. After market stuff can cause a lot of problems.
Good luck,
Schoon

 

Hi,

I went through a power brake booster change on a '76 Corvette years ago and as I recall the hardest part was removing the 4 nuts on the passenger side of the firewall which can be done without dropping the steering column. Just used a universal U joint socket to get at the tight angles with a long extension to could get some turning room with the ratchet wrench.
Think all C3 Corvettes have the same install/remove setups.

The new eyelet connector versus the clevis type might be more tricky. After you pull the old one out, try to see if you can remove the stock clevis rod from the old power brake booster to transfer over to the new one. After all, the old one is going into the trash can so why not check to see if it can be removed & reinstalled over to the new one ?
An easier solution would be to exchange the new booster that you have which has the eyelet, if you purchased it from a local parts store, to match your old booster.

The rubber grommet with the hole in front of the booster is where the pushrod goes from the booster to the back of your master cylinder. Your old one can be reused.
The rod has an adjustment screw in front of the rod in case the brake action is out of norm, but I would just leave the adjustment where it is as it should be okay.

Hope this helps.

 

Thank you very much for taking the time to answer my questions. I was a little confused at first but you explained everything just great and my R&R of the brake booster seems a little bit easier now. Again Thanks....Barry

 

You're welcome.

It's always quite stressful to tackle a job for the first time with all the unknown things that could go wrong, but it feels great when everything goes right !

Ken

 

Factory service manual is worth owning if you are going to do your own work. Same goes for an AIM. Glad you got the job done.

 

Could you give me some advice on my Emergency Brakes? The handle is hard to pull and I checked under the car and the cables are really tight. No slack at all. Is something out of adjustment? Thanks again. Barry

 

Try corvettemagazine.com they have a parking brake how to.

 

Just behind the transmission crossmember, there's a threaded bolt with a nut to loosen or tighten the cable that runs to the rear parking brakes.
When the hand brake is down, the rear parking brakes should be released and the rear tires move freely.

On my Corvette, pulling the hand brake a little past the halfway point and the parking brakes engage and the rear tires don't turn.