I have a 1980, and I was having some window problems that led me to believe it was a fuse,..although i do have a fuse block i can't read any of the wiring to know which fuse is which. NOW I replaced both of the 30AMP c/b's and while runnin the upper c/b was MEGA-HOT, when i replaced it I started it up and it ran fine then just died,..NOW I have NO-POWER to anything,..I have checked ALL fuses at the block.

2 questions:
1. Does anyone have a diagram or a drawing of what the fuseblock shouldsay on it(Ithink its the same as a 1981)
2. What would cause there to be NO POWER to the vehicle? Im thinking of a fuse close to the starter?? or a fuse at the block?

thanks for any help!

Dempsey

 

I don't have the wiring diagram for your car. However, having no power to the car could be caused by a mirade of problems. The first one to check is that you have power to the fuse block. There should be a blade for accessory power. Use a digital multimeter and check the voltage output with the key off and then with the key on. You should definately get a reading with the key on. If you don't, it may be a ground problem. Vettes have million ground wires because of the fiberglass body. One of the grounds being severed could cause your problem. The starter has a ground wire in the harness and is grounded to itself. The block is grounded to the frame. The alternatorground is in the alternator wiring harness and attaches to the back of the alternator. There is a ground wire for almost every system and subsystem in the car. It is possible that the ignition switch on thetop of the column under the dash is faulty.

 

I had a similiar problem with no power, no start, and it did turn out to be the ignition switch got fried.

 

On your 1980 you have 2 fusible links down atthestarter.One is for the headlights and one is for everything else.Its possible you blew both but not likely.Check all main battery connections --pos. cable at battery and pos. at solenoid-----neg.at battery and neg. under battery where it connects to frame.There is also a 4 wire connection coming up from the solenoid just under your hood alarm switch-check it to see if it is tight.Next check the large single red wire lug on the back of alternator....If you dont have voltage there and the 4 wire conn. is ok then you have burned the fusible link "A".

 

RogerO, you may be new to the forum but not new to Corvettes, that was good and correct advise, could a bad windowCB have blown his fusible link?
Happy Holidays, Pete.

 

Thanks for the kudos. Onthe bad breaker I cant honestly say as far as the mathmatics.If I had to guess I would say yes but I have never actually tested that guess.A constant 30 amp load on a 16 gauge fusible link seems like too much for it.I have several 14s if I have time tomorrow I'll load one up and see what it will take to burn it.

 

Without any apologies at all the GM, here is the fuse panel for an 81, hopefully it is the same:

http://www.thebunker.com/panel-81.jpg

bill.

 

That Works thanks!, I'll let you all know asap how it turns out.[8D]

 

allright well its fixed ...all in about 5 min,..it was the length of wire between the fused link and the starter,..the plastic coating had corroded and ate up the copper,..temp fix with a new wire but it works,..windows and all..

 

Good to hear you got it fixed. Just be sure to put the correct fusible link back in as that's what keeps your wiring harness from setting the car on fire if something else shorts out. [:@]