I have searched the old posts (hate to post a question thats been answered a thousand times) but I can't find nothing!

How tall of an intake can one run under a stock hood? I am wondering what some of you guys have run with the stock hood. With my cam choice I am going to need an intake that can do 2000-6500 rpm, and thats about like an... Edelbrock RPM (gee, imagine that). But with those intakes is another 1" or so of height. I could run maybe a low profile EdelbrockTorquer IIopen plemum intake, but I am pretty close to just buying a matched combo and don't know if it will fit. I would love to run the stock air cleaner, too, but I don't have to. Those low profile air cleaners SUCK and they do more harm than good.

I could always run Vortec, and a vortec intake, which should fit, but I hate to give up the sweet lookin'mag valve covers (its an '81) and vortec setup will put my power limit at about 350 hp, when I can get a Edelrock power package for $1500 that will make 400 hp (doesn't make sense???) I just need to know if it will fit!

Thanks for all your help.

 

Get a lump of modeling clay, play dough, some mashed potatoes in a plastic bag - whatever - and place a lump of it on top of your air cleaner, close the hood, open the hood, measure the thickness of the lump. That is how much more room you have.....

I am using an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap manifold, but I have a hi-rise hood.

[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

Please excuse me for interupting.....
Where did ya get your hood? I'm tryin' to find a tall hood to cover my 454so I'm notknockin' a hole in the hood. My hood and intake choice will have to team up.

Clayton,
I'm sorry I don't haveanswerto your question, butthe answer is commin'. If not an answer, some good choices.

 

[align=left]Dave,
I got the hood on mine from Vanacor's Corvette in Louisiana.
The address is P.O. box 701-Hwy 90 West, Des Allemands, LA.70030.
Ph is 985-758-7041

Its a stock style hood with a 2.5" rise over stock. It gave me enough clearance to use a Edlebrock Performer, but I did have to use a '70 drop base on my air cleaner. They also have stinger styles, and L-88 style hoods for 73-82's
See ya,
Wedge
[/align][align=left] [/align]

 

Hi Drycreamer,
I have your same problem and just this morning I hope to have found the solution

I have a standard hood, RPM intake and 14" air cleaner ( edelbrock 1221).
Look at pics .
these are the damages at hood insulation and at top of the hood ( the insulation damages are old , I got my car since december only), the cracks on the top of hood are mine instead ( because I left the edelbrock nut with its wings too long- I already reduced them but not enough, indeed)

the problem seems solved now :
-I have reduced at minimum the wings on the edelbrock nut. But better a simple nut. the crack on the top of my hood was made exhactly by the edelbrock nut. Now it doesn't touch anymore the hood.
-I placed a pair of hood bumpers to keep the hood in line- a bit higher. My car missed the factory bumpers. But you have to consider also the air pressure on the hood when going fast

so , the nut doesn't touch anymore the hood , anyway the air cleaner touches partially the hood insulation ( hood insulation compressed between hood and front part-sides of air cleaner).I think that everything will work nowand not give great problems

But if you want real clearance of hood , I suggest you to go for a 14" air cleaner with a 1" cleaning element. Personally I would like to stay with the 2" cleaning element. I'll take the risk

to PG . you have a white Vette. any tip on how to touch up my hood damage ?: it's smaller than as it seems . About 2"x2"

[IMG]local://upfiles/6949/C1F81164C2474E348995299BE42C9369.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/6949/3F92F6A487B54A0F8898841128945B8B.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/6949/66B22B5A3A7346F493654BD6C89D1101.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/6949/62F364D602EC43E1BE6C267255DEB586.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/6949/B356560A85414570A3F56477662FDE0C.jpg[/IMG]

 

Hi again, that's a bummer! All from a nut being too tall! That is one close fit. I don't have a clue about body work, the most I've done is to apply some touch up paint to the road chips. PG.

 

Aldo, you are totally awesome!!

Make sure that when you mash the gas, the engine movement doesn't break your air cleaner stud or cause any binding because of hitting the hood. Put the car in Drive, hold the brakes and just touch the gas pedal while a friend watches the engine bay, then you can see how much the engine moves while it is accelerating.

That's exactly what I was looking for, it has been snowing pretty thick here the last couple days and I was plannin' on doing the whole "put clay under the hood" I had to do that on a Firebird I had, but the weather was just to cold. Thanks a million! I am actually looking to run pretty much the same setup you have, even down to the Flowmaster 40's. I was wondering how the car drives and sounds??


Sorry about the paint man, its awful when you crack the paint just a little and you can't do anything about it. You'd probably have to chip the paint away and then feather the edges of the paint with the unpainted area and then tape off just the area to be painted. If the car is white from the factory it shouldn't be hard to get a paintshop to sell you some mixed up. When I worked at the parts store, my managers brother was a paint mixer at Car Quest and he would mix up paint in baby food jars to serve as just enough to do touch ups.

It sucks going with a shorter air cleaner because it can richen the mixture and I've seen those little baby ones cause all kinds of vacuum and idle problems. 14x3" is usually the sweet spot in my book! We'll see, I've gotta get on the horn and find out if an open plenum will cause me any street drivability problems. (is that how you spell richen, it looks funny?)


Thank! again.

 

As DryCreamer said you can get your paint at a auto paint store. They can also put it into an aerosal can (rattle can) for you.

 

Signor Aldo,
Looking at the picture of the fracture it looks like you will need to go a little deeper than just paint. Since the pressure came from the under side and caused that much damage to the top surface, you would most likely need to break out the grinder and remove some glass. Those are stress cracks that I'm sure continue through the underlying glass. The resin used in the manufacture of these cars is a filled resin and so, is very fragile and prone to cracks and disintegration afterwords.
In order to fix it properly you would need to remove the paint out around the damage far enough to find the ends of the cracks. Do a little gentile grinding at the ends with a fine grit disc (180-220)to see if it continues any further, don't want to go to deep. Once you find the true end of each crack drill a small hole, maybe 1/8" at the very end of each crack to stopit from going any further. Mark an area around the damage about 2" larger than the longest crack with tape. Then use a coarser grit say 100-150 and grind the entire area inside the tape as evenly and flat as you can about 1/32 or 1/16 " deep. Blow off the dust with compressed air and clean the area with acetone and let it dry.
Now that the area is prepped cut some patterns of3/4 -1.5 oz chop strand mat fiberglass material. Enough to fill the area just slightly higher than the original surface and slightly larger than the taped area, maybe 1/2 to 1". The number of layers will depend on the weight of the material used, 3/4 oz.=more, 1.5 oz=less.Once you have your patterns the way you want them mix up i quart of the resin to the manufacturers specifications and apply some to the entire area. Just enough to make it wet.(note here: be sure to have the engine covered under the hood with plastic or something impermeable to keep any resin from dripping on it through the holes you drilled.) After wetting out the areagently placeeach layer of glass properly in the resin wetting each before you place the next. wet the last layer and roll over it with a small paint roller to insure the glass is seated in the resin and soak up any excess resin. Remove any air bubbles that remain with a fiberglass bubble roller or a small natural bristle paint brush by tapping gently with the tip of the brush keeping the bristles perpendicular to the surface. Once the resin "kicks off" you can sand it flush with a file board and small rubber sanding block , fill it with a good body filler if needed and paint with the primer and paint of your choice. This should probably be done to the underside as well. Below is a list of tools and materials you will need to do this your self. It's much easier than it sounds and can be fun as well. Good luck with it. I guess you could also take it to a boat repair shop and have them do it but if not repaired to this depth the cracks will just return shortly.



Goodies needed:
old clothes you don't care about
*several pair of latex or thin rubber gloves
*perhaps a dust mask
compressed air source
air grinder (3" preferred)
grinding disc's in 100- 220 grit
*fiberglass mat bubble roller or 2" natural bristle paint brush
*3/4" masking tape
*enough masking paper to surround the area and cover the engine.
a file board and rubber sanding block with correct sand paper to fit each from 40 grit to what ever you finish sand with.
several clean cloth rags
small 3 or 4" paint roller with nylon or polymer 3/8" napp
*1gallon of acetone
*1 quart of vinyl ester resin with proper catalyst
*enough fiberglass chop strand fiberglass mat. 3/4-1.5 oz wgt. to cover the are at the desired thickness.
Plastic body filler of your choice if needed
* - Denotesmaterials that can be acquired from any boat repair shop for little money*
Primer
sealer
and your paint

I think I covered everything. but if not don't hesitate to ask any questions. Have fun with it and Cheers

Salute mi Fratello

 

Great post there, George! [sm=icon_rock.gif]
( that's goin' in my archives...)

I have one question.....
what is "kicks off", when refering to the resin?