Odd Vacuum Line Hoses on Newly Purchased 1977 C3
#13
I went advanced and it wont accept any file over 20 MB, so I wacked it back to 14 it was 22 MB. It`s the limits they are using, I guess. you might need to go to full screen to view and hit the side arrow. I like the way light doors work, It was just a simple project I made for myself to do. and no vacuum leaks with all original hoses and valves. Not ready to go to electric motors yet
#15
Well i guess I don`t have this mastered, I can see what I did was downloaded several pictures from my files (oops) I was just after the headlight doors. You can see them if you click on the red IMG-3674.mov, then the download manager pops up, click on the download complete statement and it take you to a big black screen, (the first screen is blank) click on the right arrow botton and it should take you to the video, Its not very long. There`s other pictures on there that I did not know about (sorry no ****) There`s a NP 246 transfercase picture from a 2000 Silverado 2500 4x4 for sale $600.00 obo, if any one or know someone that is interested app.80k miles orginal from what i can tell. I`m sorry this turned out to be so difficult, but i`m not a computer geek, my kids are i`m not. Still trying
#17
I have put the idea out to several people, it doesn`t seem to be a lot of interest in something like this. Anyone having headlight door problems gp to electric openers and done.. I`m old school I will play with it till it`s dead. Why GM used vacuum doors I have no Idea, but like most products they produce it comes down to cost. If GM can save $30.00 a car x 50k cars it adds up. If I do any patents it would have to be with my new wife. (sore subject here) long story. I could manufacture in small volumes`s, but i don`t think there`s enough demand. Karolysaurusrex, sorry for the side track, how`s vacuum investigation going? That small vacuum line was originally plugged into the vacuum fitting on the back of the intake manifold, I think. It should work ok where it is. I looked on my 77, it`s plugged into the manifold, I changed it to a larger line thru the firewall some time back. Good luck keep us posted.
#19
Hello everyone,
It's been a long hiatus - I've had to travel for work and did not have much time to tinker with the corvette. Thomas77 was correct, that small hose lead off to the HVAC controls. I ended up confirming this with a diagram I received with the HVAC hose replacement kit from volvette.com. I'll post a picture of this tomorrow, or early in the week if I can get to it.
I tested the vacuum actuators (diaphragm cans) for the headlights with a hand vac pump and found that they both worked. However, I forgot to test the headlight relays. After replacing all of the vac hoses and doing some troubleshooting with the HVAC vac system, both pop open pretty quickly (not simultaneously, but I'll take it). However, only one of them shuts. I have a feeling it's the that headlight relay.
I ended up tearing into the dash to find a battery drain, and in the process I replaced all of the vacuum hoses and all of the valves which I found to be leaky in the HVAC system. (leak tests were done with a vacuum hand pump) I should mention that none of the HVAC controls were working before this either. Here are the items I replaced (excluding the hoses):
Temperature control valve
AC water shutoff valve
Heater hose water shutoff valve
Blower motor and fan
HVAC controls work now, although that temperature control valve is not the best. If the lever isn't placed perfectly, it'll leak. It feels cheap and plasticy. Also, that AC water shutoff valve (see pic, its atop the heater box) has a really stiff spring. I can't move the temperature control lever all the way to "cold" without that spring forcing the lever right back. The old and leaky AC shutoff valve I replaced also did this, and I expected the new one to be less stiff or more lubricated. But no amount of tension/length adjustment in the control cable could overcome that spring without me holding the lever all the way to "cold". On top of all that, the air being blown by the fan is very weak, even at full blast. I can barely feel the air with my hand up against the vents, although it is there. So, more puzzles to solve.
I also had the chance to calculate my fuel mileage, since I fulled the tank up for the first time while counting miles on the ODO. I got 7mpg! Something is seriously off, maybe with the carburetor or fuel pumps. Cold starting is very difficult and takes multiple pumps of the gas pedal, so I'm guessing it might be an issue with the fuel system.
It's been a long hiatus - I've had to travel for work and did not have much time to tinker with the corvette. Thomas77 was correct, that small hose lead off to the HVAC controls. I ended up confirming this with a diagram I received with the HVAC hose replacement kit from volvette.com. I'll post a picture of this tomorrow, or early in the week if I can get to it.
I tested the vacuum actuators (diaphragm cans) for the headlights with a hand vac pump and found that they both worked. However, I forgot to test the headlight relays. After replacing all of the vac hoses and doing some troubleshooting with the HVAC vac system, both pop open pretty quickly (not simultaneously, but I'll take it). However, only one of them shuts. I have a feeling it's the that headlight relay.
I ended up tearing into the dash to find a battery drain, and in the process I replaced all of the vacuum hoses and all of the valves which I found to be leaky in the HVAC system. (leak tests were done with a vacuum hand pump) I should mention that none of the HVAC controls were working before this either. Here are the items I replaced (excluding the hoses):
Temperature control valve
AC water shutoff valve
Heater hose water shutoff valve
Blower motor and fan
HVAC controls work now, although that temperature control valve is not the best. If the lever isn't placed perfectly, it'll leak. It feels cheap and plasticy. Also, that AC water shutoff valve (see pic, its atop the heater box) has a really stiff spring. I can't move the temperature control lever all the way to "cold" without that spring forcing the lever right back. The old and leaky AC shutoff valve I replaced also did this, and I expected the new one to be less stiff or more lubricated. But no amount of tension/length adjustment in the control cable could overcome that spring without me holding the lever all the way to "cold". On top of all that, the air being blown by the fan is very weak, even at full blast. I can barely feel the air with my hand up against the vents, although it is there. So, more puzzles to solve.
I also had the chance to calculate my fuel mileage, since I fulled the tank up for the first time while counting miles on the ODO. I got 7mpg! Something is seriously off, maybe with the carburetor or fuel pumps. Cold starting is very difficult and takes multiple pumps of the gas pedal, so I'm guessing it might be an issue with the fuel system.
Last edited by Karolysaurusrex; 06-19-2022 at 04:32 PM.
#20
You're making progress. For the fuel system problem and hard starting, check the choke valve when the engine is cold to make sure when you floor it and release it that it is fully closing and the accelerator pump is squirting a shot of gas in at the same time.