paint and body work
So i spent the remainder of the day sanding and fiberglassing the yellow beast. I have had many cars but none of wich were like this one. I noticed that the front bumer and rear are this flimsy type of material i'm guessing is old plastic?
Well trying to get the body lines to match and flow as they should seems to be more difficult than expected.The rear bumper is ok but the front has some dips at the nose , kind of like they just gave in to gravity. Everything else does why not. But i was trying to see if anyone had any special tricks?
I also have a problem with the hood not matching in height with the fender flares. I know i have seen others and they just match perfectly, I don't have any type of rubber bushing between the fender lip and the hood to try and push it up as so to match.
Well trying to get the body lines to match and flow as they should seems to be more difficult than expected.The rear bumper is ok but the front has some dips at the nose , kind of like they just gave in to gravity. Everything else does why not. But i was trying to see if anyone had any special tricks?
I also have a problem with the hood not matching in height with the fender flares. I know i have seen others and they just match perfectly, I don't have any type of rubber bushing between the fender lip and the hood to try and push it up as so to match.
The front and rear bumpers on the later C3's are definitely cheezy.
You can try to smooth a bad one out a bit with alot of work (and flexible epoxy, body filler, and high build primers), but if it is too bad, a new one might be a good idea. They are available in urethane, reinforced plastic, and fibreglass. Mine was pretty decent, and 4 coats of high build primer and lots of sanding did the trick.
As for the hood height... fender washers. If you can't move the stud around in the hinge holes enough to get a good match (there is generally about 1/4" or so of play in the hinge attachment), you can add fender washers to change the height. They are available at home depot and most decent auto parts stores. I do recommend putting in at least one urethane or rubber one at the bottom of the stack so that it isn't a "hard fit". Also, I have found that it pays to take the time to paint the washers with a good rust preventative primer and hard enamel (and let them dry really good) before installing them. Road salt and age will make things ugly if you just install them bare, as most of them are just zinc coated steel.
bill.
You can try to smooth a bad one out a bit with alot of work (and flexible epoxy, body filler, and high build primers), but if it is too bad, a new one might be a good idea. They are available in urethane, reinforced plastic, and fibreglass. Mine was pretty decent, and 4 coats of high build primer and lots of sanding did the trick.As for the hood height... fender washers. If you can't move the stud around in the hinge holes enough to get a good match (there is generally about 1/4" or so of play in the hinge attachment), you can add fender washers to change the height. They are available at home depot and most decent auto parts stores. I do recommend putting in at least one urethane or rubber one at the bottom of the stack so that it isn't a "hard fit". Also, I have found that it pays to take the time to paint the washers with a good rust preventative primer and hard enamel (and let them dry really good) before installing them. Road salt and age will make things ugly if you just install them bare, as most of them are just zinc coated steel.
bill.
I have a similar problem on my 72 hood. The back and sides fit nice but the front tip is up at least 1/4" high. Anybody have any tips on how to adjust this. I'm still testing the driveline getting the bugs out before I start the body but I keep staring at the hood and scratchimg my head at what to do.
iwantfast: If your car has the original factory urethane bumper covers, be careful as they get really brittle with age and no longer are flexible.
Rich G. & iwantfast: The cars came from the factory with a dense foam rubber spacer on the ledge inside the fender that the hood closes on. The purpose was to allow the factory to move the spacer fore and aft to get the hood surface to line up with the rest of the hood surround. Not sure how this would help with the leading edge tho.
Rich G. & iwantfast: The cars came from the factory with a dense foam rubber spacer on the ledge inside the fender that the hood closes on. The purpose was to allow the factory to move the spacer fore and aft to get the hood surface to line up with the rest of the hood surround. Not sure how this would help with the leading edge tho.
Yeah i have seen the clip type rubber spacer for the inner lip of the hood, but i need to get some because the guy that was rebuilding the car lost them or doesn't have them. The beak and the rear is the old compressed foam and it does need to be floated out alot. I have my hands full But the good news is after i'm done with this car have the same car neglected also but i can get for $2,000 and fix that one up . This one is the learning car.
I got this from some kid that didn't work on it , he sunk 12,000 into the rebuild and quit.He let it sit in his back yard and rott. I hate to see beautifull cars go to waste. I feel like a savior for wayward cars.
i tried to upload pics but it says "too large"
I got this from some kid that didn't work on it , he sunk 12,000 into the rebuild and quit.He let it sit in his back yard and rott. I hate to see beautifull cars go to waste. I feel like a savior for wayward cars.
i tried to upload pics but it says "too large"
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
pj_80shark
Corvette C3 Forum
7
Dec 5, 2008 11:02 PM
IVAN1215
Technical Diagram Help
1
Sep 24, 2007 01:50 PM
Hotzby
Corvette C1 & Corvette C2
0
Dec 16, 2006 07:05 PM




