ok here is my problem i got a new engine 383 stroker with canfield alum. heads and 10.5-1 compression.
I went to start up the engine and it ran fine for a couple minutes.
Then "POP" and it turned off
I quickly pulled the valve covers to see what happend and found almost all the roller rockers where loose and the pop was a broken stud (arp 7/16 stud)
I figured it broke because it was loose (i never checked um out of the car) and the pressure broke it so i replace the broken bolt
Re torque all the studs back down (45 lbs/tq) to be "safe" tighten the roller rockers 1/4-1/2 turn past zero lash and go to turn it on and it just cranks for a while the fires up for 5 seconds the "POP" another $#@%*$! stud broke these are supose to be new bolts (thay look it any way)

so my question is why would this happen?
and
is the roller rocker suppose to be on top of the stud are is there something between the to.

here is a picture of the rocker as you can see the rocker does not sit on the stud the way i think it should is this right

 

Hi 82, looks like somethings missing on the mount, can you call the manufacturer of the rockers and talk to a tech support person? Also make sure your using the correct length pushrods or the geometry of the valve train will raise hell with the studs, rockers, and valve stems.

 

I found this picture on another fourm, 383 stroker

 

Have you checked to see if you are getting a coil bind situation? That would put a lot of force on the studs and pushrods.

 

Silly quetion but needs to be asked. Hyd. lifters or solid? If they are hyd. are you setting each one up with its cylender at top dead center on compression stroke? Snuggining the adjusting nut down just enough to take out the push rod play then turning your 1/4 to 1/2 turn? It is easy to scew this step up and adjust them too much and end up overloading valve train and breaking things. Good luck ,hope this helps.

 

Hard one to call w/o being there and looking at the whole 9 yards. Sounds more "too tight" instead of "too loose." The good info was the guy who said to call the mfg. tech line. Start from scratch and go back through the whole thing. It's surely a very simple solution as there's not that much to the valve trane. But I think that (again) the answerthat said call the tech line for the cam and kit is the fool-proof way to go. Don't do any guessing with such a great set-up. Good luck and please let us know what the outcome is.