Yes, it is. Each code will blink 3 times. Ignore the first code 12. Codes will blink series of long flashes followed by a series of short flashes. For example, code 42 will be 4 long flashes followed by 2 short flashes.

 

Thanks for the heads-up on the inline fuel filter. I replaced it yesterday and the old one was pathetic. I hope all the crap was kept upline of those injectors. It has to make an improvement.
I looked for the gray and black wire that I need to disconnect (Electronic Spark Control) in order to correctly time the engine but so far I cannot say which wire is the culprit. Could someone be a little more specific in it's location?
I also tested for codes. Being uncomfortable sticking a wire into the diagnostic port, I borrowed a AutoXRay Scout 2500B code reader from a local auto parts store. This thing seems foolproof. After following instructions as to its use I got... "The vehicle's diagnostic system reports that vehicle status is normal and does not have any trouble codes present".
This seems quite unlikely for a vehicle that hasn't been driven for at least nine years. The "service engine" light only comes on when key is first turned on and goes out when the engine first cranks over.
Does a faulty MAF kick a code? Are codes saved by the diagnostic system thru battery failures? Does the system require mileage be put on the car to generate codes? I know I'm asking a lot..but I don't know how much to rely on an on-board systems for trouble shooting.

Weather was unseasonably warm for St Louis over the weekend so I managed to limp the car out into the driveway and wash five or six years dirt and droppings off. When finished, I decided this car has to be returned to the road. No more "walking a wire". Now it's "what's it going to require" to make this a reliable (therefore fun) driver.

 

Hi Nineball
The motor does need to come up to operating temperature to set some codes and other codes can set while driving. win the motor is cold it doesn't run off the computer. Also you will need a good battery in the car so it wont throw strange codes and do other strange things.

As far as the electric spark control wire i am not used to your year so more help is needed from someone that is. HELP

You will probably want to do a ohm test on your injectors to see if any are shorted out which Will cause others to not work after that as mech suggested try getting them cleaned on the car from a professional.

I think the car is worth saving the salvage title brings the value down but it would make a great toy and any mods wont hert the value of the car. It will probably make a great driver after you get it sorted out.

On my car the check Eng light stays on a little while after starting to tell you the bulb is working. Again your car is a different year so more help is needed. HELP

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Ric W.

 

Thanks for the input folks...I've decided this machine is going to be a driver. Scrap yard will have to wait.

I tested the injectors with multimeter. Five tested at 15.8, two at 15.9, and one at 16. I also tried an old trick I used in the past to isolate noise in a running engine. Placed the end of a broomstick on each injector one-at-a-time and my ear on the other. Each injector is ticking away happily. The only thing is nos 6 and 8 seem kinda mushy sounding compared to the others. I know professional cleaning has been recommended but that's gonna be a last resort as I'll have to trailer the car to whatever shop I use for this service. The car isn't licensed yet and will have to pass inspections as a prerequisite. I haven't used a noid light on the injector wires yet. It seems if they're ticking that loud..they must be getting juice.

I did take the car around the block without plates. Probably about a mile. (first one in at least 8 years) It lacked power in the low end of both gears I used (subdivision speeds). Once rolling it pulled well. I think it needs an accurate timing more than new parts.

I'm still trying to locate the wire (or wires) I need to disconnect in order to time the engine. I been told gray and black wire(s). On all years? What do they disconnect from? Somewhere near the firewall on driver's side. Mech 259 mentions near the brake booster. The only wires I find in this area (gray and black) are attached to the wiper motor. Surely these are not related to spark control? Do I need to get behind the battery? I'm hoping these wires haven't been screwed with or otherwise modified by the previous owners. Is the correct plug or connection labled? Is it part of a gang connection (5 or 6 wires on one plug)?

Mufflers are rusted from sitting and will need replacement. I think some of the rough sounds are actually exhaust leaks. I've read several threads on this subject. I'm leaning toward Borla cat-back. On older systems (70's), there was a ceramic type O-ring gasket between the exhaust manifold and the first exhaust pipe. Does anyone know if this ring is utilized on the exhaust system here? I hate to fight with these bolts if it's not necessary.

I also noticed a grinding noise coming from the right rear wheel which I take to be brake rotor noise. I'm gonna take a closer look to see if I have a wasp nest built in there. I have knocked several off the frame and engine area. Lord knows how long they been there. The previous owner had the car covered out behind a barn. It's been in my garage but mud daubbers are well known around here. It's also possible that a little surface rust just has to wear away.

Thanks again for the advise and help. I think I'm gonna be driving soon. NineBall

 

Actually...Mech 259 mentions master cylinder...not brake booster. Sorry Mech....didn't mean to put words in your mouth. NineBall

 

Many thanks CWB. In a response to ZR1clone you included an article with a picture that happened to be the wire needed to disconnect for timing. Also mentioned in the caption was an accurate description of the wire (tan with black stripe). I've had this wire in my hand many times but not being sure I moved on looking for black and gray.
The timing will be correct before the day is over. Thanks again.....NineBall