Both together should not be over about .3 amps

 

update with the volt meter in line 12.45 v pulled all the fuses 1 at a timestill 12.45 then did the headlight motors dropped to 10.55 then started on relays pulled what i think is the theft relay dropped to 0.00 so i hooked everything back up drove it then when i partked it i unpluged the relay and heard a click under the dash.so with the head light motor and the relay unpluged i will see if it kills it over nite.update later thank everyone for there help

 

no but its new

 

I was for a moment thinkin' your headlight gear is stripped on one side, and the electrical contact that stops the h/l motor is gone - thus the h/l motor is stayin' on. Bein' a small motor, you won't hear it, nor will you hear the clickin' of worn out gears on the unit. (This small motor is also the reason I (and some techies) advocate plastic gears.)

But maybe not...

So when you found the 'guilty' circuit, you then have to find the switch for that mechaninsm that's downcurrent of the relay that you just pulled. Check its operation. Then, if the switch is good, continue...

[sm=smiley25.gif]

I'm stuck now. If the switch is good...

MECH??? Anybody?

The ECM controls the switch - RIGHT?

 

update overnite the battery is dead with h l motors and relay unplugged. the relay has a heavy red and black wire and a blue/white wire and a green wire relay mounted in the left fender well. any ideas? by the way my l hl gear is stripped i have the gears just no time to rebuild them. i also have a/c,cruise and int light issues fun fun fun

 

update update went out and rechecked still drawing 12.55 i pulled every fuse and relay i could find ecm power antenna alt 3 relays under the hood wiper motor ac i did not unplug the cluster and radio but i figure pulling the fues would do the same thing.what could be pulling that much voltade with everything unhooked? any ideas?

 

1 small thing to check is the charging wire to the alternator. If you have a shorted diode, it can possibly drain your battery. Also, does your voltmeter have settings to measure current draw. You can also use a test light by disconnecting 1 post on the battery and using the test light in between battery and cable. If it lights the light with everything off, then you have a draw. We found one time at my shop a Corvette that the hood light was staying intermittantly causing a drain (that was a hard one to run down). Make sure your hood lights and interior lights are off before performing this test by pulling fuses one at a time and also charging wire on alternator.

 

you mean the single red wire bolted to the alt i unplugged the connector but not the main wire. i thought about it last nite there is a relay over the radio that when i put the radio in it was warm like it was still powered up.what relay and modules are in the dash over the radio?

 

its all coming back to me know shop class was 20 years ago on the 20m scale it cycles 42.8 31.9 23.0 15.6 and drops i asume as it takes power from the battery. also i noticed mt security light doesnt flash any more. also i have no door or under dash lights but have hatch lights only when hatch is open. when i started today the battery was unhooked and it read .006 i hooked it up started the car then shut the car off and did t dest again and thats when i noticed it cycling. any ideas what to test next?

 

Hi, Im a new member, but, I have had the battery drain issue. What I did was to put a switch that shuts off the entire dash, Yes, crazy but it did work. Also, the altenator was not hooked up correctly, either it was sold as a replacement but it was not correct part. After obtaining the correct altenator and having it properly installed with a brand new wire harness it now has NO issues and Im not on the trickle charger every nite. Good Luck, and find a good mech. [sm=smiley4.gif]