The Best Oil
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 10
RE: The Best Oil
For your basic over the counter oil ...Mobile 1 probably is the best ....perhaps you can find online or in your areas a store that sells Amsoil ...also very good oil ..Royal Purple...not quite so good ..standard Chevorn oil is just as good...How do i know ...go to www.bobistheoilguy.com ...where you can learn anything and everything about oil...including people that have prformed oil analysis on Royal Purple and many others//RP doesn't seen to hopld up as well as M1
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 29
From:
RE: The Best Oil
All of my cars run mobile one, I would not recommend putting a fully synthetic oil into a high mileage motor for the sole purpose of oil leaks. Synthetics tend to be more detergent than dino oils, thus cleaning out spots the old oil was sealing up. I put it in my old DD mazda protege that had zero leaks and now have leaks, (although small leaks). I also run it in my vette, and my cobra. I have had the heads off of both cars and the rings and cylinders look supreme. just my $.02.....
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 29
From:
RE: The Best Oil
"I run 20-50 castrol"
Why do you run such a thick oil? It looks like you live in indiana, it dosnt get extremly hot or cold there does it? If it get really hot during the summer I can kind of understand, but if you run that all year round you putting undue stress on the oiling system. I personally run the 15-50 on my cars, for the fact it has good startup protection, and a higher viscosity. On my little 4 bangers I run the 10-40 because of the smaller displacment. Now during the winter on the vette, the cobra, and the porsche i run the 5-30 for the exact same reason as the other. Here's a good write up for ya.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
Why do you run such a thick oil? It looks like you live in indiana, it dosnt get extremly hot or cold there does it? If it get really hot during the summer I can kind of understand, but if you run that all year round you putting undue stress on the oiling system. I personally run the 15-50 on my cars, for the fact it has good startup protection, and a higher viscosity. On my little 4 bangers I run the 10-40 because of the smaller displacment. Now during the winter on the vette, the cobra, and the porsche i run the 5-30 for the exact same reason as the other. Here's a good write up for ya.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 29
From:
RE: The Best Oil
Not trying to argue with anyone, however part of this statement I couldnt disagree with more, First synthetic oil is a much more detergent oil, (check into private testing motor oils on google), this is not the sole reason that it causes leaks, but it is one of the contributing factors. Second switching back and forth will not hurt anything, since you can do this without leaks your just fine. I am also not saying that if you put syn. into a high mileage car it "will" have leaks, just simply stating it "Could" create one or a few. Third as for synthetic being thinner, this could also contribute to leaks, however if you run dino 20 50 and switch to 5 30 on a high mile car dont you think you would also see leaks? In my experience I have not. As for RP being thicker than mobile 1, since you use it and I do not, I will believe that, depending on the climate you live in that could be good or bad, during cold starts I would want my oil to be thinner to circulate better in the cold, and I do use a thicker oil during summer time because of the heat factor.
Now switching over to my own experience, my old 95 cobra had 110k on the ODO when I bought it, I switched it to mobile 1 syn. and I had 2 leaks rear thier ugly heads, one being the rear main (ford rear mains suck anyway and usually leak) and the other being valve cover. When I switched back to dino on this car I still had those leaks. Same scenario on my DD mazda with 163k on the ODO. All of my mechanics (Rick from automotion, Steve from powertrain dynamics, and John Cornejo from highline import car, master mechanic for Ferrari) All have said the same thing if the car has over 100k and has been drivin on dino than stay with dino, if it has been drivin with syn, then you can use whatever you want, But they recommend keeping them on syn. They also want me to break in my motors with dino and switch to syn after 2 oil changes.
Anyway like I said im not trying to argue with anyone but all the literature I have read, and my own experiences (as well as a few others) points to these factors. Now on to my questions, Have you tried any other Synthetics? Why do you like RP? How did your car respond to the different oils if any? Have you tried any other synthetic lubricant IE tranny fluid? These are questions I like to ask and get others opinions on, I am open to others experiences for my own knowledge. I did try Redline in my cobra and really liked it but at $8 a quart, It felt no different than mobile 1. Now when I used the tranny fluid same car I got a second and fifth gear (slight) grind after changing it (but no leaks) ??? And when I changed back to regular ATF it went away?
Sorry all for the novel, but oil's and lubricants have been a hot spot lately on most of the forums I frequent so I have read a ton on this stuff.
Now switching over to my own experience, my old 95 cobra had 110k on the ODO when I bought it, I switched it to mobile 1 syn. and I had 2 leaks rear thier ugly heads, one being the rear main (ford rear mains suck anyway and usually leak) and the other being valve cover. When I switched back to dino on this car I still had those leaks. Same scenario on my DD mazda with 163k on the ODO. All of my mechanics (Rick from automotion, Steve from powertrain dynamics, and John Cornejo from highline import car, master mechanic for Ferrari) All have said the same thing if the car has over 100k and has been drivin on dino than stay with dino, if it has been drivin with syn, then you can use whatever you want, But they recommend keeping them on syn. They also want me to break in my motors with dino and switch to syn after 2 oil changes.
Anyway like I said im not trying to argue with anyone but all the literature I have read, and my own experiences (as well as a few others) points to these factors. Now on to my questions, Have you tried any other Synthetics? Why do you like RP? How did your car respond to the different oils if any? Have you tried any other synthetic lubricant IE tranny fluid? These are questions I like to ask and get others opinions on, I am open to others experiences for my own knowledge. I did try Redline in my cobra and really liked it but at $8 a quart, It felt no different than mobile 1. Now when I used the tranny fluid same car I got a second and fifth gear (slight) grind after changing it (but no leaks) ??? And when I changed back to regular ATF it went away?
Sorry all for the novel, but oil's and lubricants have been a hot spot lately on most of the forums I frequent so I have read a ton on this stuff.
ORIGINAL: TealC4
Synthetic oils only cause leaks because they are thinner than regular oil it has nothing to do with the detergents in the oil. Thus, putting synthetic oil in your car and then switching back to regular oil will not cause any leaks. There was a Castrol commercial that aired recently that talked about this.
Another reason why I Royal Purple over the Mobil 1 is that the RP 10W-40 is significantly thicker than Mobil 1 10W-40. My 1992 Mustang GT has 188,000 miles on it and it doesn't leak a drop of oil.
Synthetic oils only cause leaks because they are thinner than regular oil it has nothing to do with the detergents in the oil. Thus, putting synthetic oil in your car and then switching back to regular oil will not cause any leaks. There was a Castrol commercial that aired recently that talked about this.
Another reason why I Royal Purple over the Mobil 1 is that the RP 10W-40 is significantly thicker than Mobil 1 10W-40. My 1992 Mustang GT has 188,000 miles on it and it doesn't leak a drop of oil.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 29
From:
RE: The Best Oil
I have a 1965 porsche 911t, and I use mobile 1 15 50 in it. The only place it leaks oil is where the oil tube runs from the fill neck to the pan, (u know what i'm talking about) also on the older porsche's you can now buy that same tube in clear so you can actually moniter the oil, just be careful not to pinch it like I did the first time installing it. I'll take a pic for ya when I get home. Ohh yeah I forgot my right side valve cover leaks a tad. I rebuilt this motor and trans about a year ago, so it runs fantastic, so far my only gripe is getting the carbs dialed in in a bit*h, six seperate weber carbs!!!!! If there not tuned right the car backfires like a ****.
