guys i need a new set of headers i need emissions and the o2 hole and i need a good price as i just spent 1000 on my front end rebuild and the suspension bushings and the wife aint too happy god does it drive great though

 

Here ya go: Instructions, materials and the headers I RECCOMEND....JMO




Materials needed to install Headers:

2 sets Percy's soft alum. 3" collector gaskets #PHP-66002 $14.95, not needed with TPiS headers.
Fel-Pro #1406 header gaskets #FPP-1406 $15.95
Stage 8 locking header bolts #STG-8911A $43.95, do not work with TPiS headers, since they have spacers put on to allow use of stock bolts. Hooker, they will.
Summit part# DEI-010409 or THE-14002 heat tape
Possibly an $18 Dipstick Tube


For 84-87 Corvettes, you have a large factory starter, this will need replacement by a smaller starter if you ever plan to take your starter off in the future. Its just too big to get around the header. 88-91 and LT1 starters are much smaller and made by Denso, and they will fit without issues.

Now, put some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster on the Y-pipe bolts and main cat bolts (if yours has them and isnt slip-fit) over night before starting this project. It will help loosen the bolts.

Right side


Remove the spark plugs, wires, oil filter, and it goes in from the top. Also the alternator bracket that secures to one of the header bolts. It helps to have the front of the car off the ground with this side too. That's it.This is the easy side. That particular rear brace will not go back on with Hooker headers, so you will have to custom fabricate something to go in its place or you WILL eventually crack your alternator.

Left side

Remove the starter, starter/flywheel cover, plugs, wires, and that long AIR hose that went to your main cat. The dipstick will could get in your way, but the ac unit ect. shouldnt. You need the front of the car pretty high off the ground. The valve into the main cat is supposed to be one-way, so not capping it shouldnt be an issue.

You might also have to remove the diagonal frame brace on this side that goes from the back of the front wheel and meets in the center below the oil pan. Try getting the header in first and see if it will go up high enough to align the bolt holes on the head without catching the corner of this brace before you remove it. Mine caught the corner of this brace and did not allow the header to go up enought to align the bolt holes on the head. I just simply grinded down this corner, cause once the headers are bolted on, you will not have room to screw that top bolt into place. So if you pull this brace, make sure you tighten this upper brace bolt back down while the header is in place BUT NOT YET bolted on, because you won't have room once the headers are bolted. You must install the header and the starter at the same time. That means bolt the starter into place while the header is in but not yet bolted to the head.

Also, when you got the headers in place and ready to bolt them onto the heads on either side, start with the header bolts that have the pipe more bent towards them. Reason is because some of the pipes bend real close to the bolt hole, and if you bolt all the rest of the bolts in place and have the headers flush on the heads, you might not be able to get some of the remaining bolts started because the bolt head will hit the pipe. You will have to loosen the bolts, pull the header away from the heads, hand start each bolt and tighten in turns as you move the header against the head.

Use the Fel-Pro 1406 gaskets for a better seal than those that came with the headers. There only like $20 and they are reuseable. Same goes for the collector gaskets. Those that come with the headers blow out easy. Get the Percy's dead soft aluminum ones instead for the collectors.

Use anti-seize compound on the collector bolts and the header bolts, if you have aluminum heads this is a must.

The last header bolt closest to the firewall on the passanger's side is going to be a bitch to install. Specially if you have big hands. Try to use a small 1/4 drive ratchet with a short flex joint on a 5/16 socket to tighten it from the top.

If you bought Hooker's matching front y-pipe and your Vette is an automatic, expect the y-pipe to not clear the transmission pan. It's going to hit the corner and not go up all the way to seal at the collectors. Had to take mine to a muffler shop, have the corner cut out and replaced with a secton of 3" pipe that had a longer sweep to clear the pan. TPiS headers fit better than this though.

Hooker 2149's have a slotted bolt hole flange for that pesky #8 bolt so you could start the #8 bolt and gasket and then slide the header flange into place then start the other bolts. It's tough to get that one started once header is in place.

Best tip I have is to start all header bolts but dont tighten them. This allows a slight bit of moveability to line up the collectors to Y pipe. Then start the collector bolts but dont tighten them. .

 

now what company supplies emmissions legal headers for under 600$USD ?

 

the hooker 2151's have all the provisions for emissions and o2. you can get the ceramic coated for $600 and just painted for under 400 from summit racing. they have the best prices on hookers that ive found (no puns guys lol)

 

groovy!! hehehe